please help vacuum problems

[Screamin4banger]

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Originally Posted by mad_psi-shelby anyone know why the car runs so smooth when the temp sensors unplugged?

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Originally Posted by Screamin4banger Computer cars only know what they know and if something is wrong they will attempt to compensate. As the computer attempts to do this you will no doubt think it is acting funny. [

When you unplug the the CTS, you were pretty much telling the car "Don't think about it". So the car ran off of pre-set values and therefore seemed to run great. you could have a sensor lying to the computer somewhere.

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Originally Posted by mad_psi-shelby when i start the car when its hot it does NOT smoke and load up anymore like it used to, but it still idles like shit. what a good baselike running 91 and up to 14psi??

If the smoke went away it and it revved smoother, it proved there was some problems in that evap system when you eliminated it. Now you can start looking at your problems again. GO CHECK YOUR DAMN CAM TIMING. I really dont care how you hook your wastegate up - either to the TB like crusty said or to the manifold source like the factory had it - Just make sure there are NO LEAKS. I would go get some new spark plugs (don't get fancy - champions will do) because you said the ones you got are fouled from too much fuel. I really wished you owned your own timing light. It seems you need to go somewhere and borrow one all the time. I would recommend you pick up a mighty-vac pump for checking stuff like the map sensor... that way you don't have to stick crap in your mouth and its easier to look at a gauge needle - but sucking on stuff will 'get er done'.


Don't worry about 14 psi right now. Just get it to run right.

you said you water was low... you have to figure out why that is... Its a sealed system - water doesn't just wander off.

when you are checking stuff like the cam timing and map sensor and IAS pintle... that would also be a good time to do a compression test... if you dont know how we will tell you.

[mad_psi-shelby]

im going to check the cam timing tonight. Turns out my water problem is the nipple for the overflow hose on the radiator. The asshole who sold it to me broke it off and i knew it but i didnt think it would pose a problem seeing as if the car didnt overheat why would it come out?

anyways. since i set the timing last night at 12 it ran a little smoother, still idles bad, and ran super hot the hole way home. it boiled over also. now i have other issues. i dont think i changed the timing that much to make it run so hot, so today i changed the cts and backed the timing off to 10 and it idles smoother, but still high. The cars not running AS hot as last night but way hotter than normal. with the 10 degrees of timing the car smoked the tires from 2800rpm all the way to redline today, usually it doesnt spin it just takes off, so it pulls harder. let me make sure im doing this right. the timing light im useing is adjustable. last night i set the gun on 12 btdc and turned the dizzy till the mark was lined up with the first timing mark on the bel housing. today i changed the timing, set the gun at 0 and looked at the bell houseing and it was flashing at 10, sounds correct?

[Screamin4banger]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mad_psi-shelby im going to check the cam timing tonight. Turns out my water problem is the nipple for the overflow hose on the radiator. The asshole who sold it to me broke it off and i knew it but i didnt think it would pose a problem seeing as if the car didnt overheat why would it come out? anyways. since i set the timing last night at 12 it ran a little smoother, still idles bad, and ran super hot the hole way home. it boiled over also. now i have other issues. i dont think i changed the timing that much to make it run so hot, so today i changed the cts and backed the timing off to 10 and it idles smoother, but still high. The cars not running AS hot as last night but way hotter than normal. with the 10 degrees of timing the car smoked the tires from 2800rpm all the way to redline today, usually it doesnt spin it just takes off, so it pulls harder. let me make sure im doing this right. the timing light im useing is adjustable. last night i set the gun on 12 btdc and turned the dizzy till the mark was lined up with the first timing mark on the bel housing. today i changed the timing, set the gun at 0 and looked at the bell houseing and it was flashing at 10, sounds correct?

Sure... adjustable timing lights are nice for tuning full advance @ whatever RPM but not all that needed for setting base timing. just set it to zero on the light and adjust the distributer to get the mark you need on the bellhousing. Your gonna want to do that after you check the cam timing.

as far as the boiling... easiest first thing to do is look at your rad cap. is the rubber all old and nasty? replace it. even if the seal is ok the spring may be weak. i forget what the caps are supposed to hold but its like 15 to 18 psi - somebody will chime in on that. the point is... waters boiling point goes up with pressure. if the cap doesnt seal, water boils when it shouldn't. if the cap is sealing to the correct pressure and you still have boil-over problems... then you need to address those problems. BTW, it is normal for you to lose a little coolant during the normal course of driving, the overflow tanks are designed to let coolant go back into the radiator. if you are loosing like a quart - thats bad.

I have a feeling that there is no 'quick fix' for this car. go check/fix everything we've mentioned and we can move on to checking fuel pressure, etc.

...AND DO A COMPRESSION TEST

[mad_psi-shelby]

thanks for the help. I live in vegas and its like 115 out right now so its terrible to work on ur car right now. ill check cam and compression tonight. the boiling started when i unplugged the sensor and changed the timing last night. it never boiled over until last night. im going to get a fuel inj o ring kit and do those tonight......

if i might mention if it helps.....the car runs flawlessly under power. doesnt miss doesnt surge all my problems are with idle. thanks

[mad_psi-shelby]

ok couldnt check my cam timing las night. I smell fuel when the motors hot so I went ahead and changed the injector o-rings thinking there might be a leak. Didnt fix it. THe injectors and rail are sealed tight and I still smell fuel coming from the engine bay......cant figure it out. ill check cam timing and get back with you guys. thanks

[Screamin4banger]

Any updates on your car?

I was reading over this thread and had some thoughts about your fuel odor. If the fuel odor is only now after you disconnected the charcoal canister, that does make sense and I wouldn't worry about it. The charcoal canister collects fuel vapors from the gas tank as they evaporate. You said it was like 115* out so I'm sure there are plenty of fuel vapors. Try plugging the lines you disconnected from the TB with some screws or bolts or something and see if the fuel smell goes away. Parking in the shade helps too.

[mad_psi-shelby]

sorry guys ive been really busy. I lost my job and ive been running around everyday looking for work and working on the side to make some money and all this nonsense.....but i havent checked cam timing yet i redid all my vac lines they are all tight no leaks and still idles high. ports are BLOCKED from throttle body, no fuel leaks anywhere, and the fuel smells still there. it still did it when the canister was hooked up too. I have more problems now, i think my heads gona grenade soon. check out my thread in induction. thnk you for your help again.