85/86/87 T1 To 87 T2 Wiring *MAKE STICKY*

[Klaus10]

It will run but will be down on power unless you compensate for less ignition advance. The 85 A511 head requires 6 - 8 degrees more advance than the A515 head used on the 86 and later EFI and Turbo cars. You can bump the initial timing up to compensate.

[glhsken]

G head v/s swirl.... correct

[Klaus10]

Absolutely correct. A511 = G head, A515 = Swirl head

[glhsken]

LOL... no one will know what you are talking about using the mfg codes. Not done in the TD world.

[Klaus10]

LOL here too. Old habits die hard.

Keep in mid that some modifications to the Swirl head change or eliminate the swirl and the ignition advance requirements then are like the bathtub head

[minimopar]

Don't forget to add a T in the vacuum line to the EGR and connect the canister purge signal vacuum line to it. If you don't have EGR, make sure the LM is talking to the purge solenoid and not the EGR solenoid. It will be if you do the complete wiring change. In that case, swap the vacuum line over on the solenoids (white dot is EGR, pink dot is canister purge).

Edit: Argh, I confused myself...after the conversion, the pink dot solenoid will be the EGR/canister solenoid.

[kc8cie]

I couldn't have done it without this post!

Thanx all, it's actually functioning mostly normal

[NJMarc]

Not really electrical related, but involves the Charge Air Temp sensor needed for the upgrade:

For those of you looking to drill and tap your 1 piece intake for the Charge Air Sensor like the T2 intakes, the correct and verified drill bit and tap needed are:

37/64" Drill Bit, Available from Grainger or McMaster-Carr. Grainger sells it cheaper, and be sure to get the 1/2" reduced shank so it fits a 1/2" drill chuck!

3/8-18 NPT Tap

I used a center punch to dimple the aluminum, then ran a 1/16" drill bit just a little bit into it to make a nice defined area for the 37/64" to sit in and not wander all about.

Be sure to continually lubricate the bits and taps with WD40 or equivilant...

And for those of you unsure, just simply use the charge air sensor from your log intake, and plug it back in with the factory wiring. The pinout is the same on the newer GLHS or T2 computer.

[kc8cie]

Be careful with these warning posts, I was getting pretty nervous until I saw the end of the post

Quote:

Originally posted by NJMarc And for those of you unsure, just simply use the charge air sensor from your log intake, and plug it back in with the factory wiring. The pinout is the same on the newer GLHS or T2 computer.

[crazy1eye]

Just a little note... You can keep the map sensor under the dash near the LM, the vacuum line is already there & all you have to do is wire it up.

[3.0L_V6_Duster]

What I could really use are some 85/86/87 T1 - 89 T2 wiring diagrams!!!!!

has anyone ever done this??
I knw that 87 T2 is the easiest to convert too for these years, but I already have a complete 89 T2 donor!!!

OK I am still confused. I have an 85 Lebaron with a T1 and I want to install an 88 T2. I have the wiring harness and the SMEC from an 88 Daytona but I am having trouble with which wires connect to the square connection box on the driver's side. The colors do not match so I do not know which onew I should splice to which. As well the information on the blue and red connectors is no good as this does not apply to the SMEC (I think). any advice.
Cheers.

You have to add at least two wires for the AIS. You will also have to swap at least 4 connections around. Check the links ID'd in this thread for the wiring harness differences. You literally have to print them out and compare them to your car.

With respect to the job of running wires through your firewall - here are some suggestions from my experience:

First of all, getting the wires through the grommet is entirely possible. However, it is akward until you figure how to work in the tight space. It seemed to take me about 2 hours to figure it all out, and get the job done. If I did it again, it would take me less than 1/2 hour.

1) Undo the plastic bag which covers the logic module.

2) Remove the connectors (and vac line in the 85 case)

3) Remove the C=clip which retains the harness to the fire wall. It is behind the plenum. If you look in a manual, you will know what it looks like. However, you will not be able to see it - you will have to feel it. There is a lip on it. Just pull it down.

4) Remove some of the clips which retain the wiring harness to the top edge of the firewall. (inside the engine compartment)

5) Partially remove some of the hood seal so you can see the grommet behind the right shock tower.

6) Using your tire iron (that is what I used), pry the grommet away from the fire wall from inside the engine compartment. You will have to coax it out of position. It is sort of like taking a tire off of a bicycle, but only inside out.

7) You may have to push the connectors up behind the heater plenum to assist. Do the pushing from inside the car.

8) Do not remove the harness entirely from the car. Just pull it back enough for you to pierce the grommet to add the wires. I poked a hole through using a screw driver. Be careful you do not cut existing wires on the back side of the grommet. The logic module connectors remain inside the car. I only pulled it out about 3 or 4 inches.

9) After I poked the screw driver through the flange of the grommet, I turned it several times until the hole was worn enough to slip the wires through. I taped the wires together and to a lead wire so I did not damage the new wires with terminals. After the lead wire was fished through, I pulled the 2 others through from inside the car. Now is the time to place some RTV or silicone on the wire in the grommet.

10) After the wires were pulled through, I pushed the lower edge of the grommet and wire harness into the fire wall opening. I then used the tire iron to push the grommet top edge bac into the firewall. I did have to twist it a bit, but then it dropped in quickly.

11) put the C-clip back in place, inside the car, behind the plenum.

12) Additonal note - Get one of those Lyle electrical terminal tools to remove the terminals from the connector. I bought an extra logic module connector harness which was clipped off a junk car. I had all kinds of colors and extra terminals to work with. Taking terminals from an 87 requires the plastic keeper to be removed. (I actually think the 87 connector is better)

I hope this helps - good luck.

Bernard


__________________
Sounds good to me - I'll take three

[OmniSRT4]

Quote:

Originally Posted by glhsken Unfortunately, that's beyond what I've tried.. I had GLHS modules lying around so I swapped them in. No Idea if the 86 T1 module will work with the new set-up. I do know the 86 modules are pinned to handle it... Not sure if the logic is there though.

Another Note:
The fuel tables for the 86T1 are designed for the Log manifold. On the log, due to its poor flow characteristics, 2 of the injectors fire more fuel. When swapping to a t2 style intake, you will end up with either 2 rich, or 2 lean cylinders.

[MoparFreak]

Okay, I printed out the LM's from the 86T1 (which I have) and the 87 T2. On the t2 LM, there's numerous "pins" that aren't used in the 86 T1 LM. Can I just get extra wires and solder these new connections? Also, on the "blue" 86T1 connector, pin #4 goes to the "power loss lamp output", but on the 87T2 LM, is says "speed control solenoid vacuum output". Do I have to change these? Also, the 86t1 blue connector pin #6 says "EGR solenoid output", while the 87T2 blue connector pin #6 says "Speed control solenoid vent output". Do I need to modify this?

So basically, besides adding to whatever pins aren't used on my 86 LM to their designated purposes on the 87 T2, do I need to change anything else?

Michael