getting irritated with car and ready to sell it

Well I have an 89 Daytona ES 2.5 T-1 and everything in the engine bay is brand new. I had +20's and an AFPR set to 40 base PSI. It kept running rich so I swapped the stock FPR and stock injectors back in. Now my check engine light comes on and I get a code 26 and I cant fix it. I took the injector harness off and inspected it very carefully and it had nothing wrong with it. I think it might be the stock injectors because last time I swapped to the stock injectors I had the check engine light come on. Could the injectors them self make the code 26 come up? Also the car ildes around 1300 RPM and is also really rough when it idles no matter what the dist timing is. Also when I hit the gas pedal it hesitates really bad then goes up really slow and I just redid my entire vacuum harness because it had some leaks. My vacuum is setting at around 15-18 it will vary and it use to set at 18-20. When I try to back the car up or go forward it sputters really really bad and I dont know what this is. I checked my plugs and they were all sooted up from running to rich, but 1 of them was half sooted and half not sooted like it was running hot. so I got new RN12's and put them in there and it does the same thing. I would really appricate any help on this matter and if I cant get help I'm going to have to put it in the shop and see what they can do. And if they cant help I'm gonna have to sell it.

[glht_omni]

26 is either a injector shorted, stuck shut or open, or a bad wire in the injector harness or wires going to the smec

i just had a 26 on mine, swapped the whole rail with harness and injectors- problem went away.

[glhsken]

Using a DVM, check each inj for resistance. I had one go bad, checked it this way and 3 of the 4 found 2.3-2.6 ohm's. The other would cycle down to the 2.x range then go all over the place. Swapped it out and all was well.

[Stratman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by glhsken Using a DVM, check each inj for resistance. I had one go bad, checked it this way and 3 of the 4 found 2.3-2.6 ohm's. The other would cycle down to the 2.x range then go all over the place. Swapped it out and all was well.

Thanks Ken for reminding me to check the 40's I got in the mail today.
All is good, my Fluke ohm meter reads 2.4 perfect on all 4.
Actually, the meter leads directly touching each other shows 0.4 ohms and the injectors show 2.8, so 0.4 gets deducted from the reading.
I guess I'm in the rambling mood today since the injectors came .

[Subliminal]

Here's an idea. Sell your car on the internet, but then when you sell it, keep making vague promises to the people that buy it, and then when they repeatedly try to get ahold of you, ignore them.

Then one day, when they call up and your grandfather answers, let him straighten out the whole mess and make you do the right thing.

It worked for you before, right?

[glhsken]

Hmmm... Seems subby has a better memory than most.. What's that link??

Chris I had to check not only the inj's but checked 2 wiring harnesses for my car last night. Trying to sort my fuel issue out. Inj's and harnesses checked A-OK. I hate electrical problems

[Subliminal]

Well, you buy a $365 used turbo from someone and then have to plead to their grandfather to get it weeks and weeks later because the little liar who promised you he had shipped the item weeks before won't answer your calls or emails anymore, you tend to remember that kind of thing.

Here's one link:

Dont buy from PAUL STOKES!!

Here's another:

IeAtRiCe1986 baaaaaaaaad seller!

And here's another:

Bad Seller's.... Don't deal with at all...