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04-05-2005, 04:44 PM
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#16
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Connecticut
My Ride: 1986 GLHS #126
Engine: stock
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.920
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good point MARK, will try to buy one from the dealer, thanks!
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04-07-2005, 04:30 PM
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#19
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Connecticut
My Ride: 1986 GLHS #126
Engine: stock
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.920
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what is amazing to me, as a customer to FWD Perf and TU (both great companies) is that there is no mention of the critical part/fitting needed to adapt the Accufab unit to our cars. i am really disappointed at both vendors for this, i mean a fuel leak at this location could destroy your entire car.
i dont blame Accufab, the unit was not intended to be retrofitted to a 1985 GLH Turbo, but come on TU and FWD Perf. you know that 100% of your customers are operating cars not originally intended for the Accufab unit. why not at least mention the "need to carefully select and install the proper blah-blah-blah part number fitting........"
APPAKING thanx for the info, i am heading to the dodge dealer soon to sort this out, and will post what i learn. dont thread a male NPT fitting into a female straight thread fuel line!!!! i dont care if it does seem to seal ok, you are literally playing with fire.
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04-08-2005, 01:46 PM
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#21
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Connecticut
My Ride: 1986 GLHS #126
Engine: stock
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.920
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the correct part number for the fuel line inlet to properly match the Accufab female thread is Mopar part #04418662, which requires o-ring part #04418293.
both of these parts are no longer available. i did a national dealer search for stock, found one dealer that showed stock, but he had already sold the line.
ok, now its off to the GM dealer......maybe theres a GM part since this Accufab unit was intended for GM cars.
and theres always the boneyards, just didnt want to install used fuel system parts.
APPAKING are you saying you used a pipe thread fitting? call me neurotic, but i think that is a very bad idea, if your fuel line leaks right there and you could easiliy have an underhood fire to deal with.
i'll let you know what Mr. Goodwrench has......
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04-08-2005, 02:51 PM
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#22
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Alliance, OH
My Ride: 86 GLHS #163
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Marcus86GLHS
theres always the boneyards, just didnt want to install used fuel system parts.
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Yeah, but you have to remember it is only a 6" long piece of tubing. Go get one from a boneyard, soak it in gas for 24hrs, clean it up a little, and throw it in with as new O-ring from the local parts store. Total investment would be about $5 maybe, and it'd look bone stock. I agree, it would be a used part, but it's not like a used oil filter or plugs, it's just a small piece of metal fuel line.
I wouldn't say just go snag one from a yard and slap it on, but if you clean it up good it'll work and look like brand new. I remember seeing about 5 of these in the local boneyard last week. I need one myself, so I think I'm gonna cruise over there after work today.
Mark Christofferson
04 SRT4
87 CSX #135
87 CSX #521
86 GLHS #085
86 GLHT TII/525
85 GLHT TII/568
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04-08-2005, 03:05 PM
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#23
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1987 Shelby CSX #694
Engine: 1987 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.737
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The yellow teflon tape used for gas lines works fine for me using a normal NPT brass fitting. It's the fuel return, so if a small piece of tape did get in the line, it won't really matter.
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04-08-2005, 04:47 PM
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#24
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Connecticut
My Ride: 1986 GLHS #126
Engine: stock
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.920
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"It's the fuel return, so if a small piece of tape did get in the line, it won't really matter."
MINIMOPAR I was referring to the fuel inlet, not the return, not sure what you are referring to, but i wouldnt want my return line leaking gasoline on a hot engine either.
mixing dis-similar threads might be ok for some applications, like say water lines, but on a fuel line, especially a high pressure, high volume line like our TDs run, its too risky for me at least.
SY2206: great idea, i emailed a friend today to ask about a used one i saw over at his garage yesterday, if i cant get a new part i will do as you suggested.
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04-08-2005, 05:07 PM
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#25
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1987 Shelby CSX #694
Engine: 1987 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.737
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I was just browsing the thread and saw the pics of the regulator. The line is the fuel return (supply comes through the rail). Setting an o-ring at the base of the threads will also work. Anyway, I have never had a leak, but touche on the dissimilar threads. They are the same thread pitch, one is tapered one is not. Anyway, I was just making a suggestion.
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04-08-2005, 10:22 PM
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#26
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Authorized TD Vendor
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Spring, Texas
1/4: 0.000
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Marcus,
I do take some offense at your statement about vendors not telling you you need an additional part for the AFPR
This is taken from our on line catalog.
"Our adjustable FPR are made of anodized aluminum, with stainless steel innards to prevent corrosion. These units are rebuildable and bolt in the stock location. The can be adjusted down to 0 psi, and have a burst pressure of 150 psi.
NOTE: 2 peice intake users require a brass fitting for fuel inlet, part number FWD 5-203 ($5) "
Normally if you order from us, and we know you have the 2 piece intake, we sometimes throw it in for free.
Later,
Cindy
__________________
FWD Performance… One stop no hassle shopping for your front wheel drive turbo car. Custom calibrations, T1,2,3,&,4. 2bar/3bar, 8v or 16v, including hybrids. Bank on over ten years of calibration R&D and thousands of street, track and daily drivers around the world. www.fwdperformance.com
Your FWDperformance Team
281-288-4411 or 281-642-3878
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04-09-2005, 12:48 AM
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#27
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Connecticut
My Ride: 1986 GLHS #126
Engine: stock
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.920
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CINDY i did see that on your website, i wasnt trying to offend, sorry, but isnt the fitting you sell an NPT threaded adaptor? my issue was that neither vendor gives you the specs on the correct thread type and size, as it looks to be something not-to-easy to purchase over the counter new.
if your adaptor is not NPT thread, can you tells us the full specs on the fitting?
guess i am a p.i.t.a., didnt mean to be. just trying to prevent a fire over here.
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04-09-2005, 07:08 PM
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#28
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Alliance, OH
My Ride: 86 GLHS #163
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by glhs727
Marcus,
I do take some offense at your statement about vendors not telling you you need an additional part for the AFPR. This is taken from our on line catalog.
"Our adjustable FPR are made of anodized aluminum, with stainless steel innards to prevent corrosion. These units are rebuildable and bolt in the stock location. The can be adjusted down to 0 psi, and have a burst pressure of 150 psi.
NOTE: 2 peice intake users require a brass fitting for fuel inlet, part number FWD 5-203 ($5) "
Cindy
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Cindy, you may actually want to edit your webiste to say:
"If you're using this AFPR on an 89 or older car,you will also need a brass fitting for fuel inlet, part number FWD 5-203 ($5)."
I have a 1 piece intake on my both my GLHT's and they both need that piece. As you know, it's not the intake manifold that determines whether or not that piece is needed, it's the year of the car. On ANY 89 and older car, whether it has a 1 piece or 2 piece intake, you will need that part.
Mark Christofferson
04 SRT4
87 CSX #135
87 CSX #521
86 GLHS #085
86 GLHT TII/525
85 GLHT TII/568
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