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Engine Management, Fuel, Spark, EGTs, and Air/Fuel Ratios This forum includes modification, tuning, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of all components mentioned above including SMEC, SBEC, Logic Modules, aftermarket engine management, etc. Nitrous oxide posts go in here. This is the place

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Old 04-04-2005, 03:55 PM   #1
ACUFAB AFPR, brass fitting size?  
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what is the size and type male brass fitting needed for the fuel inlet on the Acufab AFPR's? is it NPT thread? going on a GLHS. thanks.
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Old 04-04-2005, 04:09 PM   #2
 
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It is not NPT! (I tried and they leak).

I believe it is "BSPT" (British Standard (or Straight)Pressure Tight" or some such thing.
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Old 04-04-2005, 04:24 PM   #3
 
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According to the website, it looks like they are -4 AN inlets and outlets.
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Old 04-04-2005, 04:35 PM   #4
 
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Marcus, is this for the OEM fuel rail on your GLHS (2 piece intake)? If so, I'm pretty sure it is just a 1/4 NPT - 1/4" hose barb fitting. I just bought one for my Shelby Lancer. I bought the $5 fitting from FWDP, but I probably could have got a bag of 10 from mcmaster.com at that price.
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Old 04-04-2005, 04:40 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus86GLHS
what is the size and type male brass fitting needed for the fuel inlet on the Acufab AFPR's? is it NPT thread? going on a GLHS. thanks.
Just go to your local mopar dealer and order a factory fuel line piece from any 90 up 2.2/2.5 car. A lot of later(I believe 89 and up) used a FPR that had the threaded end like the acufab one does. So just get that piece from say a 90 daytona, screw it on, and hook your rubber line up to that. The piece I'm talking about is like a 6" long piece of fuel line with the nut on it, so it just screws right into the AFPR. Here's a couple picts.







Mark Christofferson
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Last edited by sy2206 : 04-04-2005 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 04-04-2005, 04:52 PM   #6
 
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The piece highlighted in yellow is the piece you want. It's a factory part from a 90 daytona, available from any mopar dealer.



Hope that helps!

Mark Christofferson
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Old 04-04-2005, 05:04 PM   #7
 
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thanks folks. yes the AFPR is going on the stock fuel rail.

i looked at the female threads they did not appear to be tapered (NPT)....and seeing Mark's great pix above i see the female Acufab fitting has to be a flare/flange-type fitting, not NPT at all.

guess it is off to the local plumbing supplier to fish around in the bins...unless someone has an exact part #? i see FWD Perf sells the fitting but there is no pix of it. i could use a stock Daytona part as Mark is showing but i am trying my best to keep non-stock parts to a minimum (sounds dumb i know)...i am even going to re-finish the acufab unit to look more like the original fpr.
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Old 04-04-2005, 05:39 PM   #8
 
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Oh.. that thread. It's 14mm thread. Aeroquip makes a fitting that threads in there and converts it to -6 male. It's not tapered, and it seals with an Oring.
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Old 04-04-2005, 06:28 PM   #9
 
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The fitting I recieved from FWDP was tapered. I used some teflon tape and it threaded in and sealed just fine. Still I think I'd rather have the stock return line like Mark C. is using.
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:08 PM   #10
 
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iTURBO i am not surprised an NPT w/ teflon tape could create a good seal in a straight thread....probably gonna be ok, but, i'd keep an eye on that, the Accufab unit indeed does come with an extra o-ring (just found it) that seats to the bottom of the female threaded inlet end, against a flat seat. the nut shown in Marks pix appears to be correct type. FWD Perf. might want to re-examine this fitting issue, just in case.

i'll post where i find a correct barb-adaptor-to-flange fitting, 1st stop: autozone.

Accufab: why dont you include such a fitting for us!
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:15 PM   #11
 
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good luck with that - you'll probably have to hit up your local hardware store (plumbing stores to be exact).

Finding anything flare is a PITA - getting inverse flare is even worse - I used to work hardware stores.

BUT, if you're lucky, you could goto autozone and check out their brake lines in the back (already flared on each end with a new nut) and see if those will thread in (if they have one large enough).

Other option would be to hit up a hardware store and find the right fitting, then use a double flare tool on some hardline (you can get copper at the hardware store, or stainless at a brakeshop or something) and make up your own line.

If you just want a barb, you'll have a hard time, IIRC I could NEVER find a male flare-to-pipe or flare-to-barb...
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Old 04-04-2005, 08:25 PM   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus86GLHS
autozone.

Accufab: why dont you include such a fitting for us!
Because this regulator was designed for Buicks. It also just happens to fit turbo dodges.
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:07 PM   #13
 
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Cant you got to a JY and just grab a the fitting off a 89+ TD? I mean the fitting on stock regulator looks to be the same as the Accufab adj. I got for my van...


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Old 04-04-2005, 11:50 PM   #14
 
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i may just swing by the Dodge dealer too...
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:04 AM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus86GLHS
i could use a stock Daytona part as Mark is showing but i am trying my best to keep non-stock parts to a minimum (sounds dumb i know)
The daytona piece that I'm using is BY FAR going to look the closest to stock. Unless someone's a real TD enthusiast, they'd never know that piece wasn't stock, unlike a big ugly brass fitting from the hardware store, everyone knows that isn't stock. I really think if you're trying to keep it stock appearing under the hood then the daytona piece is your best bet.

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