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02-23-2007, 03:43 PM
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#1
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making my own water injection setup??
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2005
Location: springfield, pa
My Ride: 89 Lebaron TII convt
Engine: 2.2 turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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i think im going to hookup a water injectin kit on my 89 lebaron TII/5spd vert. iv been reading and i found that it can really help clean my engine inside, up gas milage, and allow me to run higher boost if i want. i just want to know if what i have in mind will be ok to do. here it goes: i have a saab cold start fuel injector installed on my upper intercooler pipe, currently not being used. and i have an adjustable pressure switch from like 2 to 25 psi. i was wondering if i just get a washer fluid pump and a water tank thing and hook up the washer pump line to the saab fuel injector and make it a water injector. i could just set the pressure switch for say 5-10 psi then once it connects the relay the injector would open and the pump would turn on to inject the water. is this all safe to do? any info would be good. thanks.
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02-23-2007, 07:24 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2005
Location: springfield, pa
My Ride: 89 Lebaron TII convt
Engine: 2.2 turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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but if they are high volume, and the hole is small enough on the fuel injector, then wouldnt the pressure increase and make a nice fine mist of water spraying in there. i just wanted to try and get some better fuel milage and have the engine cleaner inside.
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02-25-2007, 07:34 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
My Ride: 87 omni 89 caravan
Engine: turbo 2.5
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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low volume high pressure
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02-25-2007, 10:09 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
My Ride: 1992 Daytona R/T
Engine: 2.2 TIII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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You could always run a boost/vac line to the water supply tank to equalize the pressure.
 Quote:
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Originally Posted by macncheese
well, here's what i think. washer pumps are basically hvlp (hi volume low pressure). Fuel injectors are basically just valves over a pressure differential, usually higher pressure on the supply side, such as at the fuel rail.
With the injector on the upper intercooler hose, there will be less of a differential (unless the boost equals or exceeds the pressure of your hvlp pump...i don't know how much pressure they'll make) and your injector will flow less and less as your boost increases.
This is, of course, assuming that fuel injectors don't have any parts that can be damaged by prolonged exposure to water.
Why not go to the junkyard and get a used fuel pump and pressure regulator? set it up like your fuel rail? of course, if these things are safe for use with water.
Last thing you want is to up your boost because you can, and then have the system fail......
Tony
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02-25-2007, 11:26 PM
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#6
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Here's another way.
Run a 1/2" hose from the intake manifold to a container ... the container must hold pressure. This hose is close to the top of the container and has a check valve in it to prevent vacuum drawing on the container.
Run a smaller hose with an orifice from the container to the air box ... or pipe before the turbo. This hose serves as a pressure equalizer when the TB blade is closed. It is also near the top of the container.
Run another smaller hose with a grainger valve in it and an orifice (jet) tapped into the intake pipe before the TB. This line supplies the liquid to the engine. The grainger is adjustable and used to set the pressure threshold. The orifice (jet) dictates the amount liquid introduced into the engine, along with the boost level. This line is fed from the bottom of the container.
If your monitoring knock you can set the grainger to allow injection to start just before it occurs. ie., if you see knock at 12psi set the grainger to pop off at 10psi.
As you can see this is as simple as WI can get. No electrical parts, no pumps, it's progressive and the only moving part is the ball and spring inside the grainger valve.
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02-26-2007, 05:39 AM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
My Ride: 87 omni 89 caravan
Engine: turbo 2.5
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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even tho my devils own kit is still in its box...yeah i agree. i have learned that doing it right the first time saves money. and in this case if you are trying to avoid detonation and harming an engine then doing it right is just a gimme
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02-28-2007, 09:36 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: calgary AB
My Ride: 89 omni & 90 T1 shad
Engine: 2.5L HX-35 w/alcohol
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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ive tryed preaty much every way thats been discribed so far.... my suggestion (and how mine is set up now..... and works the best)
i mounted a "lawn mower" type gas tank to my inner fender (cuase a small fuel tank has a small nipple on the bottom already), then i ran a line from the tank to a volvo fuel pump (cause volvo pumps are "external" pumps and retard proof to workwith), then ran from the pump to regular fuel rail type injectors (2 in my case, probly just need 1), then for wiring i wired the injectors to the pump and then both the pump and injectors to a pressure switch set to about 15psi. this way, the pump and injectors both come on together, and it is working awsomly!!!! i went with a full on high pressure pump cause i wanted to be SURE it could overcome the boost in the pipes, and at such a high pressure i KNOW its "spraying fuel nicely, not just "dripping" it. i went with regular fuel injectors cause the close when not in use so i know there is no pressure escaping through my lines, and cause they are so redily available in almost any size from any difforent car at the J-yard, you can just swap to smaller or bigger "jets" (injectors) depending on how its working. my pump is off a turbo volvo and with no return or regulator it pumps in the 140-160 psi range. a regular volvo pump would do fine, the turbo pump is probly a little over board..... just make sure all your lines are good to hold that kind of full pressure, and probly put a gauge on the line.
thats what ive done, and its the most comforting thing ever when your boosting 20-25psi and i see my little blue light go on to tell me its all working good. very cheap and simple!
oh ya, to mount regular injectors into your charge pipe, i cut off the little fitting from a fuel rail that the injector tips mount in, then drilled and welded them into my charge pipe. the injectors just push right in and seal themselves like on a fuel rail.
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