2 questions rolled into one post

[macncheese]

question number 1
i installed a brand new clutch, pp, and throwout bearing on a resurfaced flywheel (yes i used a bunch of brake cleaner). i have almost 400 miles on it and i really didn't start "banging" on it until the last week or so (most of those first miles are on 2 cylinders). the clutch slips in third, fourth, and fifth when i boost up to 12 psi. also, the clutch grabbed second today at about 30 mph and let me burn the tires pretty good. is the clutch just not good enough? it is a stock replacement t-II. the motor is a 2.5 commonblock.

question number 2
any idea what kind of torque/hp numbers i might be making with my setup? i really can't go to a dyno anytime soon, and i can't go to the track until i get a few more "issues" straightened out, so i don't have a solid means of estimation. i just want a ballpark for my next question. 89 common 2.5, mitsu turbo, stock head, .020" overbore, about .030 milled from head and block. grainger at 12 psi right now.

question number 3
i read that lots of trannies, including the 520 like i have, need the moly bearing plate to keep third gear from breaking and that this can happen in less than 1000 miles at 250 ft-lbs tq. how big an issue is this likely to be? is the bearing plate the best answer? are there any cheaper answers?

that's all i can really think of right now.
thanks
tony

[ToiboTonaZee]

Quote:

Originally posted by macncheese is the clutch just not good enough? I dont know... any idea what kind of torque/hp numbers i might be making with my setup? Maybe about 180hp 210ft/lbs. I am not certain but i think your going to have issues with timing from shaving the block and head, and you would have increased the chances of detonation unless you used a head shim. Do some research on this im sure there is some sort of key you use to compensate for the decked block and plained head. is the bearing plate the best answer? are there any cheaper answers? The bearing plate is by far the BEST answer. Be very thankful that these trannys allow us to fix such a huge problem with such a simple modification. Its also fairly easy to install. tony [/b]

[macncheese]

to help compensate for the machining, i have an adjustable cam sprocket set 2* retarded, and the base timing set at 8*. anybody know whether the stock t-II clutch should be holding for me or if i just goofed something up?
also, i remember hearing that the 413 tranny could be beefed up with parts from the v-6 auto. hmmmmm. $300 clutch, $125 end plate. ORRRRR, $78 for two trannies from the local pick and pull. but i DO love the manual tranny.......
tony

[ToiboTonaZee]

Quote:

Originally posted by macncheese to help compensate for the machining, i have an adjustable cam sprocket set 2* retarded, and the base timing set at 8*. There ya go, you know what your doin.... anybody know whether the stock t-II clutch should be holding for me or if i just goofed something up? Depends how much boost your running... also, i remember hearing that the 413 tranny could be beefed up with parts from the v-6 auto. hmmmmm. $300 clutch, $125 end plate. ORRRRR, $78 for two trannies from the local pick and pull. but i DO love the manual tranny....... Keep the manual, Lametec has the endplates at 100 bucks +s/h right now, you could always go with stage 1 Relentless clutch, its good to 250hp. But then again.................your probably running 10s and 400ft/lbs already and im just too dumb to realize it

[macncheese]

hahahahahaha@400 ft*lbs!!! i really doubt i'm in the tens without like, 45 psi. i'm thinkin i should just spring for the clutch and skip the limited slip for now. of course, i'll probably pull the whole motor to do the clutch. only tried to pull a tranny by myself once. sucked ass. of course, if i'm going to pull the motor, i should buy a compressor (since i want one anyway) first and then detail the engine bay and throw a nice coat of paint in there. pretty everything up before it goes back in. hey lametec.....HOLD ON TO ONE OF THOSE PLATES FOR ME!!!!! income tax return will be here soon!
thanks
tony

[ToiboTonaZee]

yeah if you pulling the motor id definately change some things.

$2-5 -relocate the battery to the left side.
$? -upgrade turbo
$0 -pack the front motor mount with silicone
$time -port and polish exhaust manifold
$300-500 -get a 3" swingvalve + exhaust
$time -port the wastegate hole on the turbo
$time -remove balance shaft if you have them
$50 -change bottom end bearings iff needed
$time -trim the metal on the oil pickup
$60 -crank scraper

these are all fairly easy and CHEAP things to do.

[macncheese]

"$2-5 -relocate the battery to the left side. "
had it over there, don't much care for it, in the middle of relocating to the trunk right now.

"$? -upgrade turbo"
still running mitsu-****cy, but don't know if i can come up with that much $$

"$0 -pack the front motor mount with silicone"
already stuffed wooden dowels into all of them

"$time -port and polish exhaust manifold"
what kind of gains do you think that would get me?

"$300-500 -get a 3" swingvalve + exhaust"
again, don't know if i can come up with that much $$

"$time -port the wastegate hole on the turbo"
mitsu spools up pretty **** fast now with the 2.5, the open exhaust, and grainger valve

"$time -remove balance shaft if you have them
$50 -change bottom end bearings iff needed"
fresh rebuild by me, balance shafts are history

$time -trim the metal on the oil pickup
wish i would have thought of that when i got the 2.2 oil pan and pickup

$60 -crank scraper
again, what kind of gains do you think this would get me?
thanks
tony
these are all fairly easy and CHEAP things to do.

[macncheese]

ok, i figured if it was going to break, better that i break it than let it break (it pisses me off less if i'm proactive about it). started banging on it and letting it slip, then it stopped slipping so much. at the end of 20 minutes of this, i don't think 3rd is slipping at all and 4th not much at all. hmmmmmmm. wtf? did i just get too good at rev matching to not let the clutch wear in?
tony

[ToiboTonaZee]

$time -port and polish exhaust manifold"
what kind of gains do you think that would get me?
At least 5hp if your flowing alot of exhaust. (Garret TO3 at 5000rpm)

"$time -port the wastegate hole on the turbo"
mitsu spools up pretty **** fast now with the 2.5, the open exhaust, and grainger valve
If you get a garret, just go ahead and port it. Just lets the engine breath easier.

$60 -crank scraper
again, what kind of gains do you think this would get me?
Probably abotu 5-8hp at 6000rpm. It would feel more revy.


ok, i figured if it was going to break, better that i break it than let it break (it pisses me off less if i'm proactive about it). started banging on it and letting it slip, then it stopped slipping so much. at the end of 20 minutes of this, i don't think 3rd is slipping at all and 4th not much at all. hmmmmmmm. wtf? did i just get too good at rev matching to not let the clutch wear in?


Never really heard of this. You did get the right clutch right? If you indeed did bag it, then i have no idea why it wouldnt want to grab...