Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

racer-xerols · **(*&$#(%*& clutch!!!!**

OK, I'm at the end of my rope and out of ideas. I installed a '92 A523 in my 87 CSX behind a '92 2.5 turbo motor. Using any combination of the following, I get a grind and catch a tooth putting the car in gear - stock '87 pedal, cable, arm; '92 pedal, cable, arm (all have the same PN from the factory except the cable itself and the bracket on the strut tower, also swapped in/out). I finally pulled the trans last night and compared parts to other trans', nothing bent, out of sorts, broken, missing, no extra pieces. Clutch is a new DE t3 plate and t4 disc, new TOB. It's like the disc is never totally disengaging from the flywheel....anybody ever see this, or do I just have a bad pressure plate? <grumble...>

lametec · 05-28-2003, 11:01 AM

I've had this problem as well as read about several other people having it.

On my Shelby Z I ended up changing the strut tower bracket to one that moves the attachment point forwards (thereby tightening up the cable). Either an '87 or '89 bracket (which ever is shortest). I also stuck a couple washers under the clutch cable "foot" (big thing that sits up against tranny).

racer-xerols · 05-28-2003, 11:08 AM

Thanks, but been there / done that. I had over an inch of shims under the lever. It isn't a cable-length issue (I work at a dealer and compared to a NIB cable), it seems to be either a distance-of-travel issue or a bad pressure plate issue. Anyone got DE's phone number? I left it in my rolodex at home....argh.

White Lightning · 05-28-2003, 11:14 AM

Tightening the cable would force the TOB against the PP. Just as if you stepped on the pedal. I think this my problem. The cable is too tight!!! I can't move the @*&$%(@&* clutch lever at the &$^%@&* trany (not even a wee bit). It's rock solid tight/on a bind/resting against the PP. I have to readjust the cable by letting out some slack at the pedal. Good luck. I know it's a *&#^$@!! SOB.

lametec · 05-28-2003, 11:21 AM

If you tighten it too much, yes that'll be a problem. Clue is to take up enough slack that the self adjuster can do its job. In my case it was pulled all the way back, and the cable still had too much slack. Moving the shock tower mounting point tightened up the cable just enough for the self adjuster to be about in the center when activated. The tension on the cable is still as it was designed from the factory.