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Old 07-15-2003, 09:50 PM   #1
opinions, 4 puck clutch vs 6 puck  
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okay, this is for my omni, should i go 4 or 6 puck.

keep in mind it will see a lot of daily use as well as track time on the weekends.
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Old 07-15-2003, 10:12 PM   #2
 
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Old 07-24-2003, 08:27 AM   #3
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Maybe it's just me, but I can't understand the logic of any clutch disc that is not a complete, solid circle. 4 or 6 puck discs are giving away valuable friction surface area! WHY? How can that possibly be a good thing?
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Old 07-24-2003, 09:21 AM   #4
 
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Personally, I use the 4 puck. It held 341 ft lbs on my car (4th gear) A buddy had the 8 puck... (same puck size, each was 50% as large as mine) It slipped at 390ft lbs. He changed to a 4 puck... holds fine.

Tim, the theory is "average" pressure. The material is also "usually" a copper ceramic which takes the heat much better. With a "solid" full circle disk, the average pressure on any 1 spot is lower.
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Old 07-24-2003, 09:22 AM   #5
 
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I have heard that you need the clutch to get hot to make them grip better. If the disk were solid, maybe too much grip and would make launchig difficult. Also that stuff may be brittle and if made too large it would crack. I dunno though, just my guess.
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Old 07-24-2003, 09:26 AM   #6
 
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Grips just fine cold as well... Yes they work great when hot. Mine is from RP. Never an issue with it.
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Old 07-24-2003, 10:08 AM   #7
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by glhsken

Tim, the theory is "average" pressure. The material is also "usually" a copper ceramic which takes the heat much better. With a "solid" full circle disk, the average pressure on any 1 spot is lower.
I found the same thing on my car....4 pucks hold awesome. The principle is that for a given pressure plate force, ther smaller the contact area, the higher the average pressure on that puck. Thus, all else equal, a 4 puck disk should hold more torque than an otherwise identical 6 puck disk.

I also have the RP 4 puck copper ceramic disk in my car and with a stock T3 pressure plate, its held way over 400 ft lb and hasnt slipped yet. With heat, it gets even notably "grabbier".
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Old 07-24-2003, 12:51 PM   #8
 
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Hey 4sfed4

How are these ceramics for daily drivers? I was thinking maybe the rev-loc would be a better solution or some suggest an r/t clutch setup for a tight budget.
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:01 PM   #9
 
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Originally posted by crazymadbastard
Hey 4sfed4

How are these ceramics for daily drivers? I was thinking maybe the rev-loc would be a better solution or some suggest an r/t clutch setup for a tight budget.
The copper ceramic 4 pucks with a stock T3 plate are fine for daily drivers. You will notice them (they chatter a little at low rpm engagements) but are otherwise fine. Just give them a few more revs when leaving a stoplight. For instance, with a stock disk one might rev to 1500 and start moving smoothly. With the 4 puck, youll have to rev to about 2500 rpm while slipping the clutch.

The Rev-lok clutch setup is also good.....but costs about double a 4 puck setup! It still uses a stock pressure plate, but its just painted red from all Ive gathered. The stock R/T disk/plate combo is also good for moderate applications but wont be reliable once your torque starts getting much above 300 ft lb. They will start to slip especially when warm.
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:04 PM   #10
 
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I'll give you an opinion...

Depends on the car and how you drive. I've been in 4sfed4's car. He takes off easy. monts aren't the stiffest so there is noticibly more chatter than my car.

My car has filled mounts all around and poly stub strut bushings.. I tach to about 2500 and slide it off somewhat quickly, no chatter at all. I DO have to get used to it after driving my other 555 car.
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:09 PM   #11
 
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What about durability? Ie- the 4,6, revloc, in daily driving, ie maybe the pucks wear out the flywheel faster etc.
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http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...a/DSC00555.jpg

1992 GTC convertible 2.5/568 aluminum fw/Tu 6puck feramic/s60/3in Tu sv/+40S/ FWD CAL /FMIC/self ported head+1mm exh valves/self ported ex mani/stock 2piece w/stock tb/PSSSSTSSSS

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Old 07-24-2003, 01:17 PM   #12
 
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Don't know about the revlok... I don't use one... Larry's and mine are identical. I'll see the flywheel soon... then have a better idea..

I have seen a flywheel with an 8 puck that slipped. It tore it up good... but the pucks seemed fairly good.

I'll know in a week how the flywheel looks with lots of daily driving.
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:24 PM   #13
 
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I am sure the cluth ate that sucker up.
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" Raise boost till you blow the head gasket(or crack pistons), then back off slightly."

dyno sheet

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...l-2-5-s60.html
I practice what I preach:
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...a/DSC00555.jpg

1992 GTC convertible 2.5/568 aluminum fw/Tu 6puck feramic/s60/3in Tu sv/+40S/ FWD CAL /FMIC/self ported head+1mm exh valves/self ported ex mani/stock 2piece w/stock tb/PSSSSTSSSS

end of summer DYNO day coming!!!
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:48 PM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by glhsken
Depends on the car and how you drive. I've been in 4sfed4's car. He takes off easy. monts aren't the stiffest so there is noticibly more chatter than my car.
Heh, you should ride in my Daytona. The T-tops makes it so "floppy" that when you caught off guard by the clutch, the chatter is so bad it feels like the car is gonna shake apart.

I have a stiffened front mount and a solid rear mount.

I think the only time it slipped on me was when rolling around in third gear (probably about 2k RPM). I pushed in the clutch with the go-pedal to the floor. Once RPM's hit around 6k, I let the clutch out. It slipped for about a second and a 1/2, then grabbed.

The clutch isn't bad at all for daily driving. Once you get used to it it's almost like driving a stock clutch.
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Old 07-24-2003, 04:36 PM   #15
 
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I just got my new clutch from a place in Ontario called Euro Drive . I went with a 4 puck ceramic disc & a modified T3 PP, they do a mod to the PP that nets them 25%-30% more clamping force. The disc was $120.CDN & the PP was $160.CDN or vice-versa.
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