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Transmission This forum includes modification, tuning, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of manual and automatic transaxles, shifters, torque converters, flexplates, flywheels, ring gears, axles, and differentials including open, friction, and Q

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Old 04-05-2006, 05:32 PM   #91
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torqueflite
So now our goal is to make the throttle valve still do it's job of creating it's new pressure (throttle pressure) even at WOT. To do this you have to take both the throttle and kickdown valves and grind some material off the ends (the end where the spring is) so they don't touch when the car is floored. Probably about an eighth of an inch off each valve will do it. Take just enough material off each valve so when you're playing with the lever, make sure the valves don't touch.

So now that the valves don't touch, the spring is now back in the picture. It will now squish a certain amount when the kickdown lever is moved to the WOT position. The "squishing" will of course be a certain spring force and the force this throttle spring creates will now be directly responsible for the WOT shift points (instead of line pressure). So change the spring rate of this spring, and the WOT shift points will change. More importantly, the WOT shift points will now not give a crap on how much line pressure there is (well, unless you go too low, because the throttle valve can't create a new pressure greater than line pressure, and neither can the governor valve or any other valve). A side effect to this though will be it will now effect regular shift points when you don't have it floored.

So you have to play with the rate of this spring. I have the spring rate and the area of the end of the throttle vavle written down, but it's buried in boxes right now. I believe the spring rate of the throttle valve when squished is about 8 lbs, but I can't remember the area of the valve. If you have a kitchen weigh scale, you can squish the spring and figure out what it's force is, then using the area of the end of the valve, you can figure out how much psi of pressure the throttle valve will create at WOT. I think someone should start with the stock throttle spring and see where it will shift. It may shift too high. I believe that a lighter spring will be needed, or cut the stock one shorter. This will of course cause the regular shifts to shift sooner. That green throttle spring out of the Superior shift kit may be a good place to start also for those few that have that shift kit (Simon ) I believe the magic number is to create a WOT throttle pressure of around 80 psi (since this is about max line pressure our trannies are when stock and unmolested).

Since I'm sharing this info, I just ask that anyone that tries this to give feedback on findings and what they doing, whether things work or not. Hope someone finds the right spring force that works. Hopefully I may get time to play myself, but I have too many other things on the go at the moment to experiment. If anyone has questions or needs clarification on something, I'll do my best to answer. I can't do pics right now, but maybe someone else that understands what I'm saying can post pics of the proper valves and spring to modify, etc.

Chad Kilback (reverse pattern manual valve body with trans-brake coming
soon)
Calgary, Alberta SDAC
88 Daytona Shelby "Zedd"
12.43 @ 111 quickest time
12.6 @ 113.00 fastest time
87 New Yorker "Norker Zedd" 2.5L TII 14.6 @ 93
Isn't the the spot where the two valves contact each other basically the kick down area of the kickdown valve . Will the tranny still kickdown if we start changing thes contact points?
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Old 04-05-2006, 07:52 PM   #92
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR Tuner
Isn't the the spot where the two valves contact each other basically the kick down area of the kickdown valve . Will the tranny still kickdown if we start changing thes contact points?
The area between the two valves where the spring sits doesn't see any oil. The oil is on the other side of the kickdown valve's land that the spring sits against. Grinding the contact points has zero effect on this area you're referring to, and therefore zero affect on kickdown into 1st. This area is also known as the "detent" circuit. It only sees oil during WOT (maybe a bit before WOT) to force the tranny into a 3-1, or 2-1 full throttle downshift. Our trannies don't have a part throttle kickdown into 1st gear. Once the tranny shifts out of 1st, it won't go back into 1st with part throttle, you have to mat it (unlike the 3-2 downshift which does have part throttle kickdown).

The 3-2 kickdown will only be affected from changing the spring pressure. The 3-1 and 2-1 will be unchanged and will continue to kickdown only at WOT.

Chad Kilback
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Old 04-09-2006, 10:57 PM   #93
 
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really need to know about the trans brake rmvb. I'm in the process of building
and need a valvebody. I would really like to get yours but i need one real soon! thanks.
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:21 AM   #94
 
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it's in and done! transbrake for me!! heyyy!! now to get it in the car.. this is my first auto rebuild as i've done many manuals. everything looks good, so i'll post back when the swap to auto is done and how the trans works..
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Old 08-13-2006, 01:11 AM   #95
 
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oops

Last edited by WYVERN : 08-13-2006 at 01:37 AM. Reason: 2 of the same posts
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Old 08-13-2006, 01:35 AM   #96
 
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Turbo Action has re-released the reverse manual valve body pt# 14156N, this is an updated better version than the previous version.
If you are in Alberta, Canada you can order it through Pace Trailer Sales in Calgary ph# 1-403-243-0611 for around $300 cdn.

I am using the Superior 404-670 kit. cost me $65-85 cdn here in Edmonton at King-O-Matic trans part supplier. I already had the homemade kit in the trans, so I left that alone and added the mods from the superior kit, I removed the accumulator compleatly and plugged holes in the case, instead of adding 2 shims on the intermediate servo I added all 3. on the goveror I used the Sonnax (pt#32204-03K) kit, used the 6-coil spring to move up my shift points. drilled the valve body for full time lube and convertor charge.
my shift points under light throttle are a very hard 1-2 at 38 kph, moderate 2-3 at 48 kph. under WOT the shifts are a tire chirping hard.

Rob

1989 SHELBY Daytona
425WHP SOHC @ 30psi boost
11.93@118mph

Last edited by WYVERN : 08-13-2006 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 08-13-2006, 02:23 PM   #97
 
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NIce, I did the same as you, except only the 2 shims. Maybe I should try the 3rd one?

Now about your sig, any dyno proof, lol!
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Old 08-13-2006, 09:07 PM   #98
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman
NIce, I did the same as you, except only the 2 shims. Maybe I should try the 3rd one?

Now about your sig, any dyno proof, lol!
the 425WHP dynosheet is at APEX here in the city but I do have the 415WHP dyno sheet I did at about 28 psi boost


Rob

1989 SHELBY Daytona
425WHP SOHC @ 30psi
11.93@118mph
Attached Images
File Type: jpg dyno sh 1+2=3.jpg (65.6 KB, 77 views)
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Old 08-13-2006, 10:19 PM   #99
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WYVERN
the 425WHP dynosheet is at APEX here in the city but I do have the 415WHP dyno sheet I did at about 28 psi boost


Rob

1989 SHELBY Daytona
425WHP SOHC @ 30psi
11.93@118mph
Now thats what I am talking about,

Care to share your setup?
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Old 08-14-2006, 01:25 AM   #100
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman

Care to share your setup?
here is my car and some goodies

Rob

1989 SHELBY Daytona
425WHP @ 30 psi
11.93@118mph
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Shelby engine 1.jpg (95.2 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg smoke em up.jpg (61.0 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg TURBO ex .84AR.jpg (64.8 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg turbo .70AR 60 trim.jpg (69.9 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg turbo 1.jpg (83.6 KB, 90 views)
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Old 08-14-2006, 01:32 AM   #101
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman

Care to share your setup?
some more

Rob

1989 SHELBY Daytona
425WHP @ 30 psi
11.93@118mph
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ports & runners.jpg (84.0 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg valves.jpg (83.5 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg the beast 2.jpg (83.5 KB, 75 views)
File Type: jpg turbosmart pro-gate 45.jpg (62.7 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg INTERCOOLER.jpg (74.3 KB, 81 views)
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Old 08-14-2006, 01:45 AM   #102
 
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some more well I guess the time slip is no good you can't read it but mine is on the right I'll just type it out I raced a mustang gt on this run LOL smoked his ass.
MUSTANG-SHELBY
RT......0.159- 0.353
60'......1.839-1.915
330.....5.647-5.089
1/8.....8.834-7.729
MPH....77.97-92.74
1000'..11.548-10.028
1/4.....13.849-11.932
MPH.....98.25-118.37

hope this is a tickler for you for some of my secrets

Rob

1989 SHELBY Daytona
425WHP @ 30psi
11.93@118mph
Attached Images
File Type: jpg TURBOSMART wastegates.jpg (58.8 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg Rob 11_time slip 1-2.jpg (28.1 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg windage tray 1.1.jpg (80.0 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg windage tray.jpg (74.9 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg rod & ARP bolts.jpg (67.4 KB, 74 views)

Last edited by WYVERN : 08-14-2006 at 01:59 AM.
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:15 AM   #103
 
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Very nice man. I love your head, those ports are HUGE, Nice turbo.
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Old 08-15-2006, 07:29 PM   #104
 
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this engine out of the SHELBY is going into the 89 minivan within the next few weeks. want to take her to the track and see what she does... made 425whp and ran a 11.93@118mph... in a 3400lb car. what do you think the 500hp motor will do in a 2800lb van?

I have been wanting to beat the minivan record for the last year so.

Rob

1989 SHELBY Daytona
425 WHP SOHC @ 30psi
11.93@118mph
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Old 08-15-2006, 07:31 PM   #105
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WYVERN
this engine out of the SHELBY is going into the 89 minivan within the next few weeks. want to take her to the track and see what she does... made 425whp and ran a 11.93@118mph... in a 3400lb car. what do you think the 500hp motor will do in a 2800lb van?

I have been wanting to beat the minivan record for the last year so.

Rob

1989 SHELBY Daytona
425 WHP SOHC @ 30psi
11.93@118mph
I say mid to high 11's.

You better hurry up, Umbass is going back out again next week to shatter it. He just went low 12's last time out.
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