New Shift Kit for 404, 413 and 670's released

[EclipsedAngel]

ok, difted through here and found a few intresting things, but one thing has me puzzeled about this shift kit. How in the F*** am I suposed to remove the intermediate servo Piston?! It's driving me nuts trying to get this thing out. Figured some one here might know. I can see where you remove the ring, but what about the peace in it's way?

[turbovanman]

Remove the valve body,

[EclipsedAngel]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbovanman Remove the valve body,

Duh... -.- if I hadn't even moved that part I wouldn't beable to 'see' it. Next answer please

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EclipsedAngel Duh... -.- if I hadn't even moved that part I wouldn't beable to 'see' it. Next answer please

Ok, this is what you do, remove the valve body, remove the band adjustment screw-the one outside the case, remove the little strut rod and swing the arm out of the way, then you can now remove the piston and install those shims. You will have to use some vice grips on the rod thats stick out to get enough force to pull the assembly out.

[parker87]

would anybody be willing to install one of these shift kits in my tranny?

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by parker87 would anybody be willing to install one of these shift kits in my tranny?

Sure, ship me the trans, I am 4-5 hours away,

[parker87]

do you need the entire thing, or just the valve body? also is there a difference between the NA valve body and Turbo VB? how much would it cost total including shipping?
Thanks

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by parker87 do you need the entire thing, or just the valve body? also is there a difference between the NA valve body and Turbo VB? how much would it cost total including shipping? Thanks

Well there are mods that go into the trans as well.

I would guess shipping around $20 each way, 1/2-1 hour work, taking it apart and cleaning it, I would charge $60.

Turbo and N/A VB's are the same.

[shelbyvnt2]

I ordered a kit from Roger at A&E Reds and they sent me a transgo lockup shift kit#k48908. Is the jury still out on the Superior kit? I am going to return this kit to them and am wondering if I should reorder the Superior kit or if I should do the backyarder shift kit. My car is going to be a daily driver and I would like reliability to be a primary concern. My GF will probably drive my dar as well and I don't want tire chirping shifts unless you stand on the gas. I guess I am saying I want my car civilized unless I don't want it to be civilized. Any info appreciated. Thanks, Pat

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by shelbyvnt2 I ordered a kit from Roger at A&E Reds and they sent me a transgo lockup shift kit#k48908. Is the jury still out on the Superior kit? I am going to return this kit to them and am wondering if I should reorder the Superior kit or if I should do the backyarder shift kit. My car is going to be a daily driver and I would like reliability to be a primary concern. My GF will probably drive my dar as well and I don't want tire chirping shifts unless you stand on the gas. I guess I am saying I want my car civilized unless I don't want it to be civilized. Any info appreciated. Thanks, Pat

Honestly, for the money, do the backyarder mods, they work the same and are free. The kits only upside is the manual part and the 2-3 shift mod, using some spacers. Other than that, its a waste of money.

[shelbyvnt2]

What kind of spacers are we talking about any pics etc. What exactly does the kit do better about the 2-3 shift that the backyarder does not? How is part throttle shifting with the backyarder? Thanks for the reply Simon

[turbovanman]

I don't have any pics but basically, the kit shims the 2-3 servo, so its not so mushy, thus tightening up the shift. Other than that, the kit is identical to what the back yard mods do.

The part throttle shifting is firmer on both ways. IF you really want to firm up the 1-2 shift, you block the accumulator. Its still not teeth rattling but its firm,

[shelbyvnt2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbovanman The part throttle shifting is firmer on both ways. IF you really want to firm up the 1-2 shift, you block the accumulator. Its still not teeth rattling but its firm,

It looks like the back yarder and MP shift kit block the accumulator. I ordered the Superior shift kit today. What does the superior do to the accumulator? Does it somehow elimitate it from the circuit or does it just lessen it? I am unclear on this. How is the part throttle shifting? If my mom was driving my car normally would she comment on how hard it shifts? Sorry to be so stupid, just want to do it once. Thanks, Pat

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by shelbyvnt2 It looks like the back yarder and MP shift kit block the accumulator. I ordered the Superior shift kit today. What does the superior do to the accumulator? Does it somehow elimitate it from the circuit or does it just lessen it? I am unclear on this. How is the part throttle shifting? If my mom was driving my car normally would she comment on how hard it shifts? Sorry to be so stupid, just want to do it once. Thanks, Pat

Well the 1-2 accumuator is a choice, you can do it not, its totally different from the valve body mods.

The Superior kit adds shims to the servo on the rear band, if memory serves on the right part names, Dodge did this to soften the shift but it gives it overlap, the kit gets rid of the soft piston stroke and reduces the overlap.
Part throttle shifting should remain unchanged. There is a kickdown mod but I didn't like it, make it shift weird at anything but full throttle.

If you don't touch the lline pressure, it will be a tad firmer than stock, if you crank it up a few turns, it will be a bit firmer but nothing and elder driver would complain about.

[Torqueflite]

The shims in the Superior kit eliminate the action of the "cushioning servo" that's inside the kickdown servo. This firms up the 1-2 shift and has nothing to do with the 2-3 shift. Blocking the accumulator also firms up the 1-2 shift as mentioned. There is no overlap in the 1-2 shift when in "D" because it's not a timed shift. In other words, only one element (the front band) has to come on and nothing has to turn off during the 1-2 shift. The overrunning clutch is responsible for making the 1-2 shift have zero overlap and is also responsible for the shift not having to be timed.

The 2-3 shift, however, is a timed shift. The front band must turn off and during the same shift, the front clutch must come on. If these two elements (the band and the clutch) don't turn off and come on at the proper *time*, you'll get rpm flare-up (where the tranny actually goes into neutral for a split second) of you'll get binding (where the tranny basically tries to go into two gears at once).
__________________________________________________ ___
Chad Kilback "Kil-time Tranny Tuning" ckilback3@nucleus.com
RMVB with Transbrake $400 US (includes priority shipping) plus $50 core
RMVB $225 US (includes priority shipping) plus $50 core
I horse trade them too
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Calgary, Alberta SDAC
88 Daytona Shelby "Zedd" Yeah, It's got a transbrake
12.43 @ 111 quickest time
12.6 @ 113.00 fastest time
87 New Yorker "Norker Zedd" 2.5L TII 14.6 @ 93
Yeah, the K-car has a transbrake too!
'02 300M Special