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Suspension, Brakes, Tires, and Wheels This forum includes modification, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of the above parts and how to tune them for better traction and handling. Also includes wheel bearings and hubs, wheel studs and nuts, wheel spacers, and other rela

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Old 01-23-2006, 03:33 PM   #1
Wheel Bearing  
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How hard are these things to change? I am getting some pretty interesting noises from the front passenger tire of my R/T. It may be time for a new set.

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Old 01-23-2006, 03:45 PM   #2
 
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Not too hard, there is 4 bolts and the axle nut that hold it in, you will need to remove the caliper and bracket to do it though. Do not use an impact on the axle nut, and when you put it together torque it to i believe its 180 ft-lbs. If you want to change the seal behind the bearing which it is a good idea, than you will need to break the steering knuckle loose from the lower ball joint, and some models you need to pull the tie rod off also.
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:28 PM   #3
 
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Sounds good. Thanks for the advice. I think I will probably change them when I do my struts.

-Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City

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Old 01-29-2006, 03:08 PM   #4
 
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Just don't go cheap on the front wheel bearings. I bought one from automasters for about $70 and it completely fell apart on me in a month. Good thing I was going slow when it happened. It could have easily caused an accident if i was going fast. I just recently picked up a free 95 dodge spirit because the same thing happened to it and the owner didnt feel like fixing it. The car was broke down in a Menards parking lot, so i fixed it and got a free car. It looked like the wheel bearing on that car was replaced not too long ago. It was probably a cheapo as well. When my wheel bearings go bad I dont even buy new ones any more. I go to the junkyard (U wrench it) and pull a good used one for $10. If I ever buy a brand new one ever again it will be OEM.

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Old 01-29-2006, 04:12 PM   #5
 
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what model. daytona or spirit. some years and models have press in wheel brearings. but most have the bolt in ones. you could probly get away with ust removing the strut from the knuckle and pull the axel out. easier ino then messing weith th eball joint.
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Old 02-01-2006, 01:59 AM   #6
 
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well, somemodels have camber cams in there for adjusting thr camber, also, just breaking loose the ball joing is easier than the strut rod, only one bolt. I put a set of wheel bearings in my car. I paid $45 each for them and they have been on there for 10k miles so far and no issues, it actually corrected my vibration. But i get huge discounts on parts here too, so that could be a part of it.
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Old 03-29-2006, 07:05 PM   #7
 
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I did it to my dad's 85 'velle (thats ...Caravelle) and it had the press in bearing. Back then I had no experience and didn't know what I was doing. All I knew was I had to take the knuckle out and I watched my instructor press out the old one and press in the new one, and after the camber was WAAAY off even though I marked the cam bolt, and my dad had to take it in to get it aligned.

Now my van is starting to hummm and speeds above 70km/h. I thought it was my winter tires but I just changed to my 3-seasons today and the hum is still there. It's an 89 Voyager turbo. I expect that it would be the same thing. But it would be SWEET if it was a bolt in. That would be a tremendous relief. Does anyone know if my van would be bolt in or press in?

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