10" to 11" brake swap Q:

[DirectConnection]

I am contemplating on swapping out my stock 10" front brake setup for one of the '89 T-II GTC 11" setups (same as '89 Shelby). My only question is how well would the 7/8" MC work with the larger brakes?

I know a larger MC would be best, but I am not looking to get the most optimal setup on this car... I have to rebuild the entire front end of my '90 VNT including the brakes, and figured since I had a couple sets of 11" brakes, why not make an improvement?

[RPMurph]

grab the MC off the car you get the brakes off of

[iTurbo]

I have upgraded my Shelby Lancer to front/rear 11" brakes, but I also installed a 24mm master cylinder at the time. Pedal feel is firmer than stock, but I need to bleed the brakes again.

I think the 7/8" MC will work, but the pedal feel might suffer. The pedal modulation will be good but it will likely feel soft or have a lot of travel as the piston will have to travel farther to move the additional brake fluid to support the larger caliper pistons. It's probably a matter of personal preference. I personally like having a firm brake pedal. It just makes me feel more confident in my brakes.

The 24mm MC is very easy to get off most Caravan/Voyagers in the junkyard.

[DirectConnection]

Quote:

Originally Posted by iTurbo I have upgraded my Shelby Lancer to front/rear 11" brakes, but I also installed a 24mm master cylinder at the time. Pedal feel is firmer than stock, but I need to bleed the brakes again. I think the 7/8" MC will work, but the pedal feel might suffer. The pedal modulation will be good but it will likely feel soft or have a lot of travel as the piston will have to travel farther to move the additional brake fluid to support the larger caliper pistons. It's probably a matter of personal preference. I personally like having a firm brake pedal. It just makes me feel more confident in my brakes. The 24mm MC is very easy to get off most Caravan/Voyagers in the junkyard.

Yes...the 24mm is the one I was going to use for my project car. Maybe I'll do it for this one as well. Or maybe I'll just go with stock 10" brakes but with good pads.

The MC I left on the cars I took them from...actually, may have one or two somewheres, but is much better to just buy a new one or remanned one for $25-55.

Pricing out new brakes and suspension for my '90 vnt to have the 11" setup. Looking at well over $600 when i'm done. Ouch! New MC, tie rods, strut plates, ball joints, bushings, disks/pads/calipers/lines....

Not sure which way to go as $ is tight, but my car needs to be tight as well.

[iTurbo]

Ah I know how you feel. In the last year I have completely gone through the suspension/brakes/steering/chassis on both my Omni GLH Turbo and Shelby Lancer. Lots of little parts add up a lot. I'm afraid to add up my reciepts for it all. I'm about to go through my Spirit R/T next.

I once tried to get a reman MC from Checker Auto but the part they showed me looked a lot different than the OEM master cylinder, so I shyed away from using it and am using a used 24mm master cylinder from a junkyard. Probably not the best way to go, but it works.

Is it normal for aftermarket MCs from parts jobbers to look a lot different than the OEM part? The reman MC I saw at Checker just had me scratching my head.

[DirectConnection]

Quote:

Originally Posted by iTurbo Is it normal for aftermarket MCs from parts jobbers to look a lot different than the OEM part? The reman MC I saw at Checker just had me scratching my head.

I can't answer that one, but you raise a good point. Best thing would be to order from CRAPA a MC from the correct year Ram so you know what you are getting. That's what I might do. I might also just get new balljoints and stock rotors and be done with it(along with struts and strut plates)

Tossing in one of my 1-1/4" swaybars while I'm at it as well.

[Travis_k]

Just get a 24mm master cylinder, i got one for $15 from the junkyard and it works great. When you rebuild the suspension, get some poly bushings too, they are well worth it.

[DirectConnection]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travis_k Just get a 24mm master cylinder, i got one for $15 from the junkyard and it works great. When you rebuild the suspension, get some poly bushings too, they are well worth it.

I plan on the poly bushings... the 10 to 11" swap... I don't want to swap out proportioning valves. The VNT car has discs on all 4 corners, but solids on the rear. Hoping the brake bias doesn't get out of whack by going to larger fronts.

[Jack's Dodge]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirectConnection I plan on the poly bushings... the 10 to 11" swap... I don't want to swap out proportioning valves. The VNT car has discs on all 4 corners, but solids on the rear. Hoping the brake bias doesn't get out of whack by going to larger fronts.

This was not mentioned, but I am sure you know you'll need the 11" spindle, brackets, calipers, and struts. Attempted the 11" front brake swap on my 86 daytona. The mounting points for the strut on the 86 spindle came down too far, and would not bolt up. A shorter strut, from the same model would be ideal. In my application, spirit spindles were used. Have yet to compare the sizes of pre 89 struts to post 89 struts for length comparison.

[GLHNSLHT2]

you're just going to 11"s up front??? If you're gonna upgrade do it on all 4 corners with the correct PP valve. It could be very dangerous not to do so. The last thing you want is to have to hit the brakes mid corner and have the tail or the front go into a death slide.

[Travis_k]

I dont think it will hurt on the front, I wouldnt just put the 11 inch brakes on the back though. The back does so little in stopping the car that its not really going to matter too much.

[GLHNSLHT2]

yes it's probably safer on the front. But the rear does more than you think with the 11" setup. Since it's a trailing arm design when the rear brakes grab the rear of the car will squat. Engage the Ebrake and you'll see With the stock 87 rear discs and minivans on the front the car would lift the rear tires clean off the ground in a straight line. I could swing the tail. It was fun but dangerous. With the full 11" setup and a PP and a D150 Ram MC The car hunkers down at all 4 corners now. It's great for when you spot a cop and you're going to fast. It doesn't pitch the nose. Just sits down another inch and the cop can't tell you were doing 20 over. It's also much safer since there isn't as much weight transfer to the front and brakes better as you're using all you can and not overtaxing the front tires. A guy I knew ran 89+ 10" rear discs on his GLH but left the fronts stock. Well coming into a turn it of course kicked the tail out and slid it into a tree backwards. Always make sure your braking balance is good.

[Jack's Dodge]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 yes it's probably safer on the front. But the rear does more than you think with the 11" setup. Since it's a trailing arm design when the rear brakes grab the rear of the car will squat. Engage the Ebrake and you'll see With the stock 87 rear discs and minivans on the front the car would lift the rear tires clean off the ground in a straight line. I could swing the tail. It was fun but dangerous. With the full 11" setup and a PP and a D150 Ram MC The car hunkers down at all 4 corners now. It's great for when you spot a cop and you're going to fast. It doesn't pitch the nose. Just sits down another inch and the cop can't tell you were doing 20 over. It's also much safer since there isn't as much weight transfer to the front and brakes better as you're using all you can and not overtaxing the front tires. A guy I knew ran 89+ 10" rear discs on his GLH but left the fronts stock. Well coming into a turn it of course kicked the tail out and slid it into a tree backwards. Always make sure your braking balance is good.

Quite a story. My k-wagon is getting 11" rear. Question though. I have brand new mini calipers for up front, and I want to run 11" in rear with 36mm calipers and 88 Dakota MC. Should balance out ok, right?