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Suspension, Brakes, Tires, and Wheels This forum includes modification, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of the above parts and how to tune them for better traction and handling. Also includes wheel bearings and hubs, wheel studs and nuts, wheel spacers, and other rela

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Old 10-01-2004, 07:51 PM   #16
 
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SHELBYTURBO89, I would caution you on using the cast arms if you have an 89 with the Shelby/ES ground effects. I installed a pair of cast arms on mine and the geometry change of the arm alone pushes the wheels forward enough where the tire contacts the the fender at the pint where the front air dam fastens to it. when the whells are straight it clears but during turning it will contact.


I just installed those arms in my new 89 Daytona Shelby, and I did not notice any difference.

JOe
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Old 10-02-2004, 11:30 PM   #17
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
Isnt the front bushing the same as the cast arm.... just the rear was different. I thought I remembered reading that. Lemme know if he agrees to make them. I for one would be up for a few sets. I wish someone would make the whole set..... there are so many 89-90 cars out there that would really benefit from a set of bushings.

Brian

PS is there some reason you are switching from your custom control arm bushings or is this for a different car?

Brian, the front bushing on the dual pivot arm is definitely not the same as the cast arm. It is in a metal sleeve and presses into the arm. I switched from the custom arms because I put 91-up knuckles (bolt on brake adapter) on the car for a future big brake upgrade. Since the later knuckle has the ball joint pickup cast 3/4" lower than the 89, my control arm with the longer ball joint stud get pushed down that much more and makes contact with the inside of the wheel. If I had 17" inch wheels it would probablry clear, but i run 16's. I raised the car up a little and can still maintain a nearly paralell control arm angle with the new knuckles.

Firebaron90, that is interesting to hear, it may just clear due to some tolerances, i would like to know how close yours comes, maybe its just my car.
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Old 10-03-2004, 12:02 AM   #18
 
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I will take a closer look tonight....maybe a picture as well.

Just a FYI, i am using the Knuckles and arms from the Firebaron....a 90 lebaron GTC....maybe that has something to do with it.




Joe
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Old 10-03-2004, 12:11 AM   #19
 
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Are we talkin cast arms from the lebaron, because the arms from the 90 lebaron should have been stamped dual pivot just like the 89.

let me know,

thanks
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Old 10-03-2004, 10:19 AM   #20
 
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csracer,

When you were talking about how the knuckles lower the ball joint by 3/4", does that mean that if you lower your car a lot, you can change to these knuckles instead of makeing those special balljoints to keep the control arm flat?
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Old 10-03-2004, 12:36 PM   #21
 
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Ok, upon closer look, yes it seems i have the same problem....

the arms are off of a 93 spirit

knuckles and k frame are off the 90 baron....

See this link for the the car before the swap....
http://www.hellafast.com/gallery/vie...the_shadow_018

now notice the shadow with the same arms....


This is distrubing....is this going to clear my 215 45 17's!!!!



Joe
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Old 10-03-2004, 05:44 PM   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelbyturbo1989
csracer,

When you were talking about how the knuckles lower the ball joint by 3/4", does that mean that if you lower your car a lot, you can change to these knuckles instead of makeing those special balljoints to keep the control arm flat?

if you plan on only lowering the car about an inch the newer knuckles will keep it close to paralell to the ground. Any lower and you will start having too much upward angle and should consider the longer ball joint mod.
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Old 10-03-2004, 05:53 PM   #23
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firebaron90
Ok, upon closer look, yes it seems i have the same problem....

the arms are off of a 93 spirit

knuckles and k frame are off the 90 baron....

See this link for the the car before the swap....
http://www.hellafast.com/gallery/vie...the_shadow_018

now notice the shadow with the same arms....


This is distrubing....is this going to clear my 215 45 17's!!!!



Joe
Joe,

that pic of your shelby is exactly how mine looked, but if i turned the wheel with the car standing still, it would just touch the airdam.

according to the tire calc you will buy a little more than 1/4" more clearance if you swap to the 215 45 17

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
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Old 10-03-2004, 08:39 PM   #24
 
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that pic of your shelby is exactly how mine looked, but if i turned the wheel with the car standing still, it would just touch the airdam.


Looked??? what did you do to make it not look like this?? and what is the ball joint modification??? I am using eibachs and konis, so it is kinda lowered???

And lastly, I am new to the G body....why do they always look like the rear end is lower than the front??? I have the same stuff as the front back here....

Joe
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Old 10-04-2004, 10:53 AM   #25
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firebaron90
that pic of your shelby is exactly how mine looked, but if i turned the wheel with the car standing still, it would just touch the airdam.


Looked??? what did you do to make it not look like this?? and what is the ball joint modification??? I am using eibachs and konis, so it is kinda lowered???


Joe

I put the stock 89 dual pivot stamped arms back on which centered the wheel again and no more rubbing. I am currently not using the modified ball joint arms. My current setup is 91-up knuckles, R/T adapters and calipers, 11" rotors, 89 shelby daytona stamped dual pivot arms with stock ball joint, stock control arm bushings but the rear one is the HD solid rubber Shelby Daytona piece. I am at the approximate ride height of the MP springs which is about 1-1.25" lower than stock, comparable to eibachs also.
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Old 10-04-2004, 10:59 AM   #26
 
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Oh i forgot, the ball joint mod is having a custom longer ball joint welded onto a stock arm. Jim McCracken of Design & fabrication was doing them. That is what i meant when i said i wasnt using my modified ball joint arms. The longer ball joint stud helps keep the arm more paralell, and the 91-up knuckles help to do the same thing but just not as much as the longer ball joint stud. It all depends on how low you are going to go.
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Old 10-13-2004, 09:59 AM   #27
 
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Okay So If I hear everone correctly I cannot use the energy suspension bushings on my 89 shelby conrol arms...Damn I guess I'll have to do the ball joints without redueing the bushings
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Old 10-13-2004, 10:04 AM   #28
 
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The way I understand it is that some 89's came with the older style arms, while the majority came with the dual pivot stamped steal arms. Crawl under your car and see which kind you have.
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Old 10-13-2004, 03:33 PM   #29
 
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http://members.shaw.ca/mydaytona/100_0197.JPG
Can you tell from this pic...I think its the dual pivot.
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Old 10-13-2004, 04:21 PM   #30
 
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well the rear pivot point is where the most obvious change is, but.. i think someone could tell from looking at that.. i just went out and checked the 90 dynasty but it has cast arms, oh well.

also, if you replace the older style knuckles AND k-frame with the newer kind your ride height doesnt change, just wanted to point that out.
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