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09-30-2004, 12:55 AM
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#1
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Home-made control arm bushings
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mentor, Ohio
My Ride: Daytona
Engine: 2.5
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.600
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I've got an 89 daytona. It's got the style control arm that no one makes bushings for, so I thought I might make my own. I thought I might try and make some on the lathe and see how it goes. What is a good material to use? My neighbor suggested Delrin, he said it might be better than poly and it machines well. Anyone have an suggestions?
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09-30-2004, 09:41 AM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mentor, Ohio
My Ride: Daytona
Engine: 2.5
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.600
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Are you sure they are for my car? I ordered a set like two years ago and they were for the early style control arm. I haven't seen a manufacturer who makes these bushings for my car, but I'll check out Energy's site.
It says the bushings are for 80-89. Those are the ones I ordered and they were the wrong ones. They must have made the change mid year or something.
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09-30-2004, 11:48 AM
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#6
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: PirateSwashbucklers.awesome
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Reliant
Engine: 2.5L T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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yeah they do.... FM sells a set for 144$ that includes the swaybar bushings as well.... however you wont catch me paying 144$ for them....
Brian
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09-30-2004, 12:07 PM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mentor, Ohio
My Ride: Daytona
Engine: 2.5
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.600
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$144? yikes. I think I'll try and find another alternative. I know a lot of people are swaping to the later style control arms. I would rather just make a set and pop them in. Is poly machinable? Can you buy round stock and put it in a lathe?
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09-30-2004, 04:10 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Silver Spring, MD
My Ride: 1988 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 1988 2.2L Turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.930
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I don't think you've ever rode in a car with Delrin bushings. Let me put it this way, Delrin was originally developed as a non-conductive substitute for aluminum. It offers nearly zero deflection and should really only be used in cars intended for track use only, unless you don't particularly like your teeth  Cast double hinged control arms are cheap and readily available, and will bolt right up to your existing k-frame and steering knuckles. I would pick up a pair and get some bushings from John Spiva at polybushings.com for them.
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09-30-2004, 10:08 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mentor, Ohio
My Ride: Daytona
Engine: 2.5
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.600
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Huh, I didn't know that the cast control arms were a direct bolt in. I thought you had to get another K member and swap that in too. I'll have to look into that then. Mabye I'll get the guys at the just yard to take them off for me so I don't have to roll around in the mud.
Hey Kevin, I was on your photo pages and saw you have solid front and pass. side mounts. How do you like them? I filled my front mount with two part epoxy and it was much better. With the side mount being solid, how much more does it vibrate?
Thanks in advance.
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09-30-2004, 10:14 PM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Silver Spring, MD
My Ride: 1988 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 1988 2.2L Turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.930
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by shelbyturbo1989
Hey Kevin, I was on your photo pages and saw you have solid front and pass. side mounts. How do you like them? I filled my front mount with two part epoxy and it was much better. With the side mount being solid, how much more does it vibrate?
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Well, there's definetly more vibration, but it's difficult to quantify that. It's not what I would consider unacceptable. Keep in mind I also have a solid bobble strut and a transmission mount I reinforced with pipe nipples hammered into the openings.
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10-01-2004, 10:55 AM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelby Township, MI
1/4: 0.000
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SHELBYTURBO89, I would caution you on using the cast arms if you have an 89 with the Shelby/ES ground effects. I installed a pair of cast arms on mine and the geometry change of the arm alone pushes the wheels forward enough where the tire contacts the the fender at the pint where the front air dam fastens to it. when the whells are straight it clears but during turning it will contact.
here is the post i originally made Cast control arm wheel positioning problem on 89 Daytona
if you have 15" wheels you should be ok, but with the stock 16" pumpers it rubbed.
I was thinking about contacting Johnny from Polybushings.com, and seeing about having him just make the rear bushing in two piece poly, the rear could could easily be done and is the one that takes the most abuse.
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10-01-2004, 12:19 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mentor, Ohio
My Ride: Daytona
Engine: 2.5
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.600
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CSRACER,
I was just reading your post about an hour ago and saw that you were having problems with this. I have the exact same car you do, with the 16" pumpers. To be honest in all the work I've done on my car I've never really closely looked at the design of the pivot points of the control arm.
If you get any info on Johnny making a set of bushings for us, let me know. Either post or shoot me an email at vv118502@ohio.edu.
I won't be able to do any of this until spring rolls around (I'm away at school right now). Maybe by then there will be more info on what is going on with the different cast arms.
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10-01-2004, 01:41 PM
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#14
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: PirateSwashbucklers.awesome
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Reliant
Engine: 2.5L T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by csracer
I was thinking about contacting Johnny from Polybushings.com, and seeing about having him just make the rear bushing in two piece poly, the rear could could easily be done and is the one that takes the most abuse.
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Isnt the front bushing the same as the cast arm.... just the rear was different. I thought I remembered reading that. Lemme know if he agrees to make them. I for one would be up for a few sets. I wish someone would make the whole set..... there are so many 89-90 cars out there that would really benefit from a set of bushings.
Brian
PS is there some reason you are switching from your custom control arm bushings or is this for a different car?
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