Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

**92lebaronGTC** · 10-26-2004, 05:12 PM

Give or take, brake pads and such would be $100 to get done, how much should the rotors be?

Turbodave · 10-26-2004, 05:32 PM

Rotors usually run around $11ea at autozone for the 10" ones, 11" rotors are probably at least double that. I can't tell from the picture which ones your car has.

Brake pads are usually anywhere from $10-50 depending on the quaility of pad you use.

Replacing both front brakes shouldn't take more than 20-30 min. If your up to doing it yourself it's not that difficult, on par with changing you own oil.

**Polygon** · 10-26-2004, 06:44 PM

I bought a pair of Raybestos 11" rotors, a front set of Raybestos pads, and some brake cleaner and it cost a total of around $85.00.

**92lebaronGTC** · 10-26-2004, 06:50 PM

Hmm, i'll look into my haynes manual on changing my front brakes, I can change oil blindfolded... well... maybe I could... But if it's about the same then I could probably do it myself. If I replace the pads, what are some GOOD ones, I don't really care how much they are as long as they are good, low brake dust and takes heat well.

If I replace my rotors would I be able to buy 11" ones if mine are 10"? Would there be any difference in performance? Would it be compatable? I'm sure my rotors are fine, i'll probably just get them resurfaced. Thanks for the info!

**92lebaronGTC** · 10-26-2004, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polygon

I bought a pair of Raybestos 11" rotors, a front set of Raybestos pads, and some brake cleaner and it cost a total of around $85.00.

Sounds like a good deal to me!

**92lebaronGTC** · 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShelbyMopar89

As far as your inner CV boot goes I would say it is torn. You can buy a split boot (comes with new grease) and put it on, but I will dang near bet my paycheck it will not stay together. It is best to take the shaft out and replace it with a normal boot. If you continue to run it like that it will eventually come from together leaving you walking. Hope this helps.

So I should get the cv boot replaced as soon as I can?

After I get my next paycheck i'll head to autozone or something and pick up new pads and rotors and try it out myself.

Edit: I have 16" wheels, from disc and rear drum brakes, would that mean I have 10 or 11" rotors? Or does that have nothing to do with it.

lametec · 10-27-2004, 02:18 PM

It mean you have 10" rotors. 11" only came with 4-wheels disc brakes ('89+).

Just ask for the discs for your model/year.

ShelbyMopar89 · 10-27-2004, 06:52 PM

They only "special" tool that you would need to change your brakes would be a C clamp. You use the C clamp to push the piston back in the caliper. Just remove your outer pad, leave the inner there and put one side of the clamp on the old inner shoe and the other side on the back of the caliper, then tighten. As you tighten you will see the piston getting pushed back into the caliper. I recommend you take the caps off of the fluid resivor when you push the piston back in. As you push the piston back in the fluid level will rise in the resivor, take care that it does not overflow, as brake fluid is killer on paint. You can either get the axel rebuilt or just replace it, not sure on the cost of rebuilding, think a rebuilt one from Napa or the such is around $160.00. I would not run it long with it like that. Hope this helps.

turbovanman · 10-27-2004, 09:04 PM

If the rotor isn't warped and theres no excessive grooves, theres no reason not to slap pads on. Another common myth that you can't put new pads on worn rotors. You will get better braking doing this than new rotors or machined rotors as there not smooth enough. Took a seminar years ago and boy were my eyes opened. Note, you can't do that with drums. Also, make sure to use rubber grease on the caliper slider pins-NOT WHEEL bearing grease, can swell the rubbers and then they will stick on!

**92lebaronGTC** · 10-27-2004, 11:28 PM

How much would it cost for parts and labor on average to fix my cv boot? Or is it something I could probably do? I'm still a newb and can't do much more than an oil change. Would I be better off taking it somewhere for it? If I get my brakes done somewhere which I probably will since i'll do all 4 wheels and I won't do drum brakes, would a brake place do my cvboot?

also do you have any idea if my cv boot would last about a thousand more miles or so, i'm between jobs and cash is tight.

Mopar_Nutz · 10-28-2004, 01:14 AM

Once the boot is ripped, the CV joint can start getting contaminated by fluids, dust, sand etc. It also loses alot of the grease in it. When I get a torn boot, I typically don't do anything about it right away, since by the time I see it, I figure the damage has started. I could spend money putting a new boot on it, but the joint could still be contaminated and start wearing out real quick anyways. I just run it till it starts clicking bad or breaks, and then drop a new axle in. But thats just me.

Fact is the car will probably be fine with a torn boot for quite awhile but you WILL kill the joint eventually. So if you're going to replace the boot, do it now, before it gets worse. If you're going to wait a month or so, just get a replacement axle and replace the whole thing later on.

One other thing. Whether you go with replacing the axle or the CV boot. You're better off doing it yourself. Not only do you save money, but you get to do something yourself and learn how it's done. Never know when that could come in handy.
It CAN be a little frustrating if you've never done it before, but it's very straightforward and fairly simple once you get the hang of it. For instance, I just did an axle swap in under 20 minutes last week on the side of the road before work. And thats probably average for most guys on here. Some are much faster I'm sure!

turbovanman · 10-28-2004, 11:19 AM

The hardest parts of doing a CV axle is undoing the big 32mm nut, lowering the control arm off the knuckle. The next hardest is cleaning out the joint to get rid of the dirty grease. If you got the axle out, you could take it to a shop and have them clean it and put a new boot on, I would charge half hour or so to do it. Oh, does your front end make clicking noises when making turns? If so, your axles are shot.

Vigo · 10-28-2004, 12:47 PM

putting new pads on worn rotors doesnt make your car stop bad or anything.. it just chews the crap out of the pads compared to putting them onto new rotors, ive done it a few times and without fail the pads wear MUCH faster. and if your rotor has been metal to metal before dont even think of putting a new pad on it without machining or replacing it.

turbovanman · 10-28-2004, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vigo

putting new pads on worn rotors doesnt make your car stop bad or anything.. it just chews the crap out of the pads compared to putting them onto new rotors, ive done it a few times and without fail the pads wear MUCH faster. .

Bullshit!

I have my own shop, do it all the time. Sorry to call your bluff on that!

**Polygon** · 10-28-2004, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbovanman

Bullshit!

I have my own shop, do it all the time. Sorry to call your bluff on that!

I agree.

I've never replaced the rotors when changing my brakes unless a rotor was warped or could not be turned. I've not seen excessive pad wear on any of my cars.