Front left wheel sqealing??

[STPVIPER]

Rotors Are Dirt Cheap For That Thing. You Can Probably Even Find Some Cheap Cross Drilled Ones(under 40$ A Side). I Got Cross Drilleds For My 86 Daytona For 32$ A Piece!

[Vigo]

well you can consider yourself right or lucky, whichever you prefer, but im ASE certified in brakes myself, and ive done my fair share, and im not lying about my experiences, so you can take it however you'd like i suppose.

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vigo well you can consider yourself right or lucky, whichever you prefer, but im ASE certified in brakes myself, and ive done my fair share, and im not lying about my experiences, so you can take it however you'd like i suppose.

How can you say a smoother surface will wear out brakes faster? I never machine rotors unless warped or badly scored. Been doing this for over 18 yrs and never had an issue?

[92lebaronGTC]

Quote:

Originally Posted by STPVIPER Rotors Are Dirt Cheap For That Thing. You Can Probably Even Find Some Cheap Cross Drilled Ones(under 40$ A Side). I Got Cross Drilleds For My 86 Daytona For 32$ A Piece!

Where did ya get those? Could you give me a part number or something? I'd like to have cross drilled rotors!

[Polygon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92lebaronGTC Where did ya get those? Could you give me a part number or something? I'd like to have cross drilled rotors!

I wouldn't unless you get bigger rotors to make up for the lost surface area. Cross drilling is really useless. If it had any use they would be using it in all major facets of racing. Slotting has a use, but not cross drilling.

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polygon I wouldn't unless you get bigger rotors to make up for the lost surface area. Cross drilling is really useless. If it had any use they would be using it in all major facets of racing. Slotting has a use, but not cross drilling.

Good point, also cross drilled rotors crack easier and they wear the pads out faster.

[ShelbyMopar89]

I am not ASE cert or anything but here is my .02 I was one to recommend him to just get new rotors cause they are cheap and the surface is true. Here is what I think....if you put new pads on an old rotor that is not warped, there are still, around the mating surface high and low places. With a new flat pad, the first thing it will contact are the high spots, right? So now you have a brake pad contacting only say 60% of the rotor vise 99.9% This creats hot spots on the pad which glaze it. Also creating uneven heat on the rotor, and what warps rotors? I have never ever seen glazed pads brake well, it ruins the pad. So it eventually it wears down so it is at 99.9% contact, now you have good contact but 1/4 of the pad is glazed from the inital heat. I am sure you guys will let me know if I am wrong, but this is the reason I put new rotors on. The end result, brake replacement more frequently. Or maybe it lasts just as long but your braking performance is only 80% of what it would be with all new components? Can you do it, sure but for the cost why not do it right? Maybe this is the difference in only 10 feet of stopping difference between the two, but that 10 feet may save your faimlys, or somebody elses lives. Thats worth $50 or so to me. I consider brakes as safty equipment, and do not cut corners. Off my soap box now.

[turbovanman]

Again, if the rotor is flat, not scored, no noticable ridges, using new pads on old rotors is ok, I went to a brake seminar from GM, which was made by ALL the brake manufacters and that is what they told us.

Also, if the used rotor is flat, is will STOP better than new or resurfaced rotors, again, test by the above in the seminar, using a brake dyno and real world cars. Do what you want, but facts are facts.

Off my soap box, lol!!!!!

[92lebaronGTC]

I totally agree how brakes are safety equipment, perhaps i'll remind my parents of that and they could chip in a couple of bucks for me to get new pads/rotors.

[Vigo]

nobody is denying that if you put a brake rotor on a sandpaper like surface instead of a smooth one, it will stop better.. thus why most roads are made out of asphalt.. if it was glass cars wouldnt stop well.. but the other side of the friction coin is wear. no getting around it. and what shelbymopar said about glazing is true, and i HAVE felt the difference, namely on an f150, between glazed pads on used rotors and new pads on new rotors. however, glazing usually doesnt go very deep in the pad, and it will eventually wear down to good surface, but in the meantime you're wearing the pad faster. and im not saying you should always put new rotors on, but there ARE valid reasons not to reuse old ones. and one of the biggest is the fact that new ones are 11-13 bucks a piece, on the front. lol.

[Putter]

Earlier up there was a post about the torn cv boots and just to run 'em till they die.

My omni has both outer boots flappin in the wind with no grease in them whatsoever, back in the day when they went I didn't have enough money to fix them, so all the grease just flew out....well that was nearly 25,000 miles ago, and the boosts are barely even on the axle anymore, no noise, they're not grinding or getting hot and they have not seized and broken my trans yet (knock on wood). They'll get replaced this winter(new axles), but its just kinda funny how long they'll go when completely ignored .

[92lebaronGTC]

cool so it shouldn't be anything to worry about for a while now right?

[Vigo]

i had a car with cv joints flapping in the breeze and never gave it a second thought too, until i had to drive 15 miles through a flash flood and found out that water inside a cv joint = jerking/locked up steering. it almost put me off the road a few times. after that i didnt drive it until i fixed the boots. it feels just like someone whos much bigger than you jerking the wheel out of your hands. i tried to turn against it at a stop sign at one point and just heard the power steering pump sound like it was going to explode. water not compressible, stupid liquids.

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92lebaronGTC cool so it shouldn't be anything to worry about for a while now right?

Do it now, a boot and grease is cheaper than a new joint.

[Putter]

Definatly fix it if the joint isn't already ruined.