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11-02-2004, 09:01 AM
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#46
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV
My Ride: '92 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Well I got the brakes done yesterday morning and it wasn't just the pads/rotors that needed replacement. The cylinder in the driver side caliper had a huge chunk missing from it. Where it went? Beats the hell out of me.... but my rotors were getting little hairline cracks and such and my calipers were binding and yeah... A lot of work needed to be done. 3 hours and $500 later I come home and my brakes feel so much better now. It's like driving a new car! My wallet will never forgive me though.
__________________
-Steve Reject.
1992 Chrysler Lebaron GTC 3.0L
Engine K&N Cold Air Intake, 15* Ignition Timing, 52mm Throttle Body, Phenolic Intake Plenum Spacers, 2.25" catback, MSD Coil,Accel 8mm wires, NGK V-Power Plugs, HD Trans Cooler, Aluminum Radiator
Suspension A-Spec Strut Tower Bar, Falken ZE-502 205/55/16, Bilstein Sport Touring Struts, KYB Gas-a-just shocks, Boxed in Panhard Bar, Poly Sway Bushings, Polyurethane solid motor mounts,
TINT - 20% Front, 13% Rear, 15% Windshield Banner
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11-02-2004, 09:46 AM
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#47
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Iowa City, IA
My Ride: '87 Omni
Engine: Dodge 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.320
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Its good to be safe though, a chunk missing from the caliper? Was the pad worn all the way through the pad backing and the rotor cutting into caliper?
These cars are so much fun because there is always something you can do to make 'em feel like a new one(not just repairs).
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11-02-2004, 12:11 PM
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#48
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
My Ride: 1989 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Glad to see the job was done safely. You nor your wallet will regret it.
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11-02-2004, 12:50 PM
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#49
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: turbochrysler.com
My Ride: turbochrysler.com
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Vigo
i had a car with cv joints flapping in the breeze and never gave it a second thought too, until i had to drive 15 miles through a flash flood and found out that water inside a cv joint = jerking/locked up steering. it almost put me off the road a few times. after that i didnt drive it until i fixed the boots. it feels just like someone whos much bigger than you jerking the wheel out of your hands. i tried to turn against it at a stop sign at one point and just heard the power steering pump sound like it was going to explode. water not compressible, stupid liquids.
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Had the same problem with my van the other day after driving through heavy rains. The steering wheel was wiggling around about 1" in either direction and it was just plain scary to drive. I thought the joint had died. On the way home I stopped at a local junkyard to see what was new there. 15 min later I was headed back home and it's been fine since.
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11-02-2004, 01:33 PM
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#50
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV
My Ride: '92 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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I'm just glad the car is finally safe and nothing happened such as a brake failure... that would have been horrible.
__________________
-Steve Reject.
1992 Chrysler Lebaron GTC 3.0L
Engine K&N Cold Air Intake, 15* Ignition Timing, 52mm Throttle Body, Phenolic Intake Plenum Spacers, 2.25" catback, MSD Coil,Accel 8mm wires, NGK V-Power Plugs, HD Trans Cooler, Aluminum Radiator
Suspension A-Spec Strut Tower Bar, Falken ZE-502 205/55/16, Bilstein Sport Touring Struts, KYB Gas-a-just shocks, Boxed in Panhard Bar, Poly Sway Bushings, Polyurethane solid motor mounts,
TINT - 20% Front, 13% Rear, 15% Windshield Banner
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11-08-2004, 01:37 PM
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#51
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV
My Ride: '92 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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If I buy a new split boot for my cv joint, about how long do you think it will hold? Cash is tight right now so buying a new axle is kinda out of the question at the moment.
__________________
-Steve Reject.
1992 Chrysler Lebaron GTC 3.0L
Engine K&N Cold Air Intake, 15* Ignition Timing, 52mm Throttle Body, Phenolic Intake Plenum Spacers, 2.25" catback, MSD Coil,Accel 8mm wires, NGK V-Power Plugs, HD Trans Cooler, Aluminum Radiator
Suspension A-Spec Strut Tower Bar, Falken ZE-502 205/55/16, Bilstein Sport Touring Struts, KYB Gas-a-just shocks, Boxed in Panhard Bar, Poly Sway Bushings, Polyurethane solid motor mounts,
TINT - 20% Front, 13% Rear, 15% Windshield Banner
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11-08-2004, 04:42 PM
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#52
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: turbochrysler.com
My Ride: turbochrysler.com
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by 92lebaronGTC
If I buy a new split boot for my cv joint, about how long do you think it will hold? Cash is tight right now so buying a new axle is kinda out of the question at the moment.
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We put one on a VW once and it lasted about a week before it fell off. It was not worth the money and time invested in my opinion.
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11-08-2004, 06:29 PM
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#53
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Iowa City, IA
My Ride: '87 Omni
Engine: Dodge 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.320
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Just replace it with a normal boot kit (like 15$), you just have to separate the joints off the axles, they are heald on with snap rings, its not that bad, just kinda messy.
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11-11-2004, 07:18 PM
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#54
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rochester, Michigan
My Ride: 92 GTC, S2000, GTP
1/4: 0.000
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I don't think anyone brought this up - When you reinstall your rotor, grease the part that contacts the hub. This may be just a Michigan thing, but when my RR caliper locked up on my GTC a few years ago, I had to take the rotor off with a small sledge. This after all the penatrating oil I could get on. Just nuts...
I never did the LR even though you should do both sides at the same time. Too frustrated. Well, 20,000 miles and 5 years later, the LR is still good, doot da doo...
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11-11-2004, 10:25 PM
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#55
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Iowa City, IA
My Ride: '87 Omni
Engine: Dodge 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.320
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Lol, its called an air hammer with a 3" stroke and 180psi, it'll take a rotor into bits and pieces in a matter of seconds....we get 'em alot at the dealership thats there's no saving. Don't use much grease and anti-seize works better, if you put alot of grease on the heat from braking can reach close to its drop point and you'll get grease on the rotors, not good for pads longevity, and definatly not for safety.
Knock on wood for sure on your LR
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