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Suspension, Brakes, Tires, and Wheels This forum includes modification, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of the above parts and how to tune them for better traction and handling. Also includes wheel bearings and hubs, wheel studs and nuts, wheel spacers, and other rela

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Old 01-11-2005, 11:53 PM   #1
K-Frame Bracing  
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I'm doing the lower control arm bushings in my k-frame (l-body), new steering rack, balljoints and tie rod ends. While its out, would it be benificial to brace it any and in which spots if so. The car is used as a toy, I drag race it, but am wanting to get into some road course events (either parking lot racing or something else, either way I love to turn). Plus it spends a lot of time on winding backroads.

I may just brace what looks weak but am looking for opinions to whether its worth it or not.
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Old 01-12-2005, 02:01 AM   #2
 
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I have been wondering the same thing. I have a *ton* of new suspension/steering parts that are just about to go on my Omni. The K-frame is out but I'm still scratching my head on what to do about making it stronger.

I've heard of some people gussetting the K-frame, but where are the gussets added to reduce flex?
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Old 01-12-2005, 10:57 AM   #3
 
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Ive heard of people installing a brace across the front of it.. tieing the lower control arm mounts together.. this was on a neon, but I would imagine it would still apply..
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:14 AM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neon_steve
Ive heard of people installing a brace across the front of it.. tieing the lower control arm mounts together.. this was on a neon, but I would imagine it would still apply..
Yeah, the old TTI brace. That would be very nice to get ahold of. I was thinking of one for the neon and the charger. ~~H

Here is the Deyeme racing post on neons.org. Oh, they also make filled motor mounts.

http://www.neons.org/forums/viewtopi...spension+brace

Last edited by Kid Doc; 01-12-2005 at 11:17 AM. Reason: addition of site
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Old 01-12-2005, 12:20 PM   #5
 
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Yep, that would be the one.. I was thinking of cutting my own out.. Or just welding in some steel tubing across the front.. I really don't have any need for it at the moment though.. Car is stock for now..
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Old 01-12-2005, 12:42 PM   #6
 
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Might have some clearance issues with the diff, but a good plan. It should be built out of U-channel or square tubing, since it has to keep the ends of the frame from folding inward under acceleration. There is a lot of steel in those things. Has anyone seen if a brace really helps? Where do the K-frame most often crack? That would be the area to concentrate on.
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Old 01-12-2005, 01:10 PM   #7
 
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Thats a good point Russ.. I guess I had been thinking about it more along the lines for handling and keeping the lower suspension geometry good while cornering.. just welding in a piece of tubing would do that.. but under flat out straight line acceleartion, all the load woulc be placed on the welds themselves (pulling) which could lead to cracking..
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Old 01-12-2005, 04:43 PM   #8
 
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I suppose the sway bar imposes some nasty twisting to the K frame as well...
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Old 01-12-2005, 06:17 PM   #9
 
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I beleive the instructions I got from Quickor for my 1.25" sway bar had a few pictures of a car that had a brace as described welded to the K-frame on the test car. Maybe Johnny could give some insight???
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Old 01-12-2005, 06:28 PM   #10
 
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I welded some pads on mine over the radiused section below the uprights near where the front LCA bushings mount. Use them to pry against when changing axles. This is my 100k mile '87 Shelby Z K-member sandblasted. No cracks anywhere.

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Old 01-12-2005, 10:26 PM   #11
 
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Eyeballing the lower control arms tonight leads me to believe they could use a little work, I may try boxing them to a degree, but I don't have the money for the Quickor front bar yet and am concerned with fitment issues, so it may just have to wait.
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Old 01-13-2005, 01:14 AM   #12
 
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i was wondering the same thing....

L body front k frame strength?
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Old 01-13-2005, 05:33 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Putter
Eyeballing the lower control arms tonight leads me to believe they could use a little work, I may try boxing them to a degree
Yeah, on both my GLHT's which will be auto-xed a lot this summer, I'm going to make a k-frame bar, connecting the front points of the k-frame togather(where the a-arms bolt in.) I think I'm gonna use 1" square tubing and a 1/4" thick plate on each end where it bolts to the k-frame via the front a-arm bolt.

Mark Christofferson
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Old 01-13-2005, 05:56 PM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vabeachsyty
i was wondering the same thing....

L body front k frame strength?
I totally forgot about that thread; thanks.
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Old 01-13-2005, 05:58 PM   #15
 
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I've had an idea kicking around in my head for a few years now. What about a tubular K-frame? I bet we could save a LOT of weight doing this AND we could make some things adjustable at the same time....anybody tried it or seen one? No, I'm not talking about the V8 conversion either...I'm wanting one for my FWD application...
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