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01-19-2005, 09:03 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: wisconsin rapids, WI
1/4: 0.000
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First, jack up the wheel in question.
2nd, remove wheel cover,
3rd, get a beer
4th, drink ½ beer
5th, remove 5 lug nuts, these are 19mm or 3/4" which ever you prefer.
6th, drink other ½ of beer,
7th, remove dust cap in center of brake drum.. this is easily accomplished with a flat blade screw driver and a BFH (big hammer)
8th, get another beer
9th, drink ½ of the beer
10th, remove cotter key using pliers or suitable substitute
11th, remove nut retainer and nut
12th, finish beer
13th, pull off entire brake drum assembly.
14th... if drum assembly does not come off easily, cus, swear, kick and hammer on brake drum...
15, get bandaid for head
16th, have a shot of JD
17th, hopefully brake drum is off by now
18th inspect outer bearing
19th pound out seal on back side and inspect inner bearing
20th determine what is bad
21st spend a lot of time trying to save a buck going from junk yard to junk yard looking for a good one
22nd after wasting several days looking for a good one, go to parts store and by new ones
23, reverse removal proceedures. (aka chilton manual)
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01-20-2005, 07:35 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PA
My Ride: 88 Shadow
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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The rear bearings are a piece of cake. The front....well thats another story.
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01-21-2005, 09:58 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284
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Somehting that was missed...you need to preload the bearings after you install them on the car. There are several ways to do this, but over time I've always done it like this:
once the new bearings are packed and in the hub with the new seal, put the washer and nut on the spindle. Hand tighten them down. Now, use either a large pair of channel locks or the propper socket and as you turn the hub counterclockwise, tighten the nut down until you can barely turn the hub by hand. ***This is the important part!!!***Now, BACK-OFF the nut 1/8 to 1/4 turn to where the nut retainer can secure the cotter pin, don't go more than 1/4 turn, a little tighter won't hurt anything. Check to make sure the hub spins freely and that there isn't an excessive about of "play" in it. There will be a little, but that is normal. Now you can put the dust cap on and continue reassembly.....
HTH
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01-21-2005, 10:17 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: York, Maine
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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do i take off the whole brake drum or just the outter part. do i need to diconect the brake line?
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the drum is the big honkin cast iron piece that spins and the brake shoes push out against it. the round flat plate bolted to the rear suspension and holds the brake shoe mechanism is called the backer plate.
on our older cars, the wheel lug studs are pressed into the drum. on my buddy's neon, they are pressed into a seperate rotating assembly that the drum slides over (the lug studs go through holes in the drum just like they do on the "hat" section of the rotor on the rear brake disc system) with the neon, you have to pull the wheel seperately and then slide the drum off to get at the brakes, unless you want to bother taking the whole center pin system apart (not advisable unless repacking the bearings, inspecting them, repair, etc). so with a neon, you dont have to worry about the center bearing at all just to work on the rear brakes.
 Quote:
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thoes berrings are cheap go to ai industrial bearing store and they will match em up
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didn't know they were such a problem. i just make sure i put the same bearing parts back the way i found them (unless being replaced). usually an inspection and repacking with fresh grease every couple years is plenty to keep them in top shape. curious, but what supplier do you go to exactly?
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01-22-2005, 04:05 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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I was about to do the rear bearings in my Daytona yesterday, but ended up they just needed to be cleaned, re-packed and tightened. They were just a little loose. 
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01-28-2005, 12:10 PM
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#15
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
My Ride: 85 Shelby Charger
Engine: 89+ 2.2 T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by moparzrule
The rear bearings are a piece of cake. The front....well thats another story.
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Fronts aren't bad either...With the right tool(s):
http://phpix.planetb.net/index.php?a...ze=512&start=0
Tom
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