rear caliper adapter/bridge/bracket whatyamacallit...

[bluneon]

so.....my 94 shadow has 4 wheel disc brakes with ABS.

anyway.....there's a problem with my adapter/bridge/bracket whatyamacallit. (i call it the rear caliper adapter while everyone else calls it something else.)

my pads are locked in place and will not slide correctly. do not tell me what the problem is because it will not fix the problem (i've allready had a few professional technicians attempt to advise me what my REAL problem is when i allready knew the problem in the first place until i actually let them check my car). calipers are in perfect working order.

the reason my pads are locked in place IS because the bracket/adapter/whatyamacallit has pits gouged into it by the pad. the pads cannot slide parallel to the rotors and are now locked in place and are wearing crooked.

i only have 3 options to fix this problem so that my rear disc brakes can finally work correctly. this is in order of expense, most costly is stated first. i will need to purchase brand new pads, so that is a given expense.

option #1: purchase brand new adapters;

adapters are not available at auto parts stores like NAPA or murrays, etc... they are only available at the dealership. i am able to get employee pricing on the adapters for around 140 dollars EACH. i am in need of a PAIR.

con: i'm broke and can't really spend 280 bucks for 2 adapters. unless my safety isn't worth 280 bucks? would need to complete a full tear down and rebuild of the rear bearing assembly.

pro: these are BRAND new chrysler specific parts that are guaranteed to work without fitment problems, less headaches. would need to complete a full tear down and rebuild of the rear bearing assembly.

Option #2: salvage yard hopping;

rear disc brakes were optional on these cars and i'm kind of concerned about the availability of them being found in the yards. what are the chances of me actually finding a shadow/interchangeable vehicle with rear disc brakes? on top of that, what are the chances of them actually still working? and on top of that with ABS? (i don't know if there's any real differences in ABS or non-ABS adapters.)

con: time consuming in search of a pair. at this time of the year it's too damn cold to be walking around in yards. too cold to pull these parts myself, especially without either having a bolt too rusted out, having to use a jack to remove the wheels (if need be) and finding a pair that is still in good working condition. in general, just even finding a good pair. would need to complete a full tear down and rebuild of the rear bearing assembly.

pro: least expensive than the first option, depending on what the yards are asking for them, but most likely less expensive. would need to complete a full tear down and rebuild of the rear bearing assembly.

Option #3: fill up the holes with a tack welder;

i was told that since the adapters are cast iron that i could tack up the holes on the adapters and then die grind/file the surfaces back down till they're flat. would need to find/determine what kinda of tack welder to use. i will not need to remove the adpater from the vehicle.

con: none that i can think of, except of possibly burning stuff like the brake lines. may need to complete a full tear down and rebuild of the rear bearing assembly if the adapter gets too hot from welding (very unlikely).

pro: seems a bit too easy. may need to complete a full tear down and rebuild of the rear bearing assembly if the adapter gets too hot from welding (very unlikely). least time consuming of all options.

unless i could find someone here that's selling their adapters? i think they'd rather save their's for their conversion or something.

thanks.

[Shadow16V]

Your best bet-

Weld them and grind them. I have had to do this on numerous cars in the past. I generally just use my little MIG welder to fill in the divots and then a 4.5" grinder to get rid of the excess. I even had to do this to the front brackets that are on my Spirit R/T. I looked into replacing them but my cost was over $100 for a new anchor. Spent maybe 15 min with the welder and grinder and throw a coat of paint on them. You would never know they are not new.

[bluneon]

what's the price range of a MIG welder? i may be looking into getting one if the price is right since i know i could use a welder for a whole bunch of stuff.

[mopar3.0]

j/b cold weld will do the job

[Shadow16V]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluneon what's the price range of a MIG welder? i may be looking into getting one if the price is right since i know i could use a welder for a whole bunch of stuff.

You can buy one of the Cheaper cracker box welders at places like Menards, and home depot fairly cheap. The one I use the most is a Miller Millermatic 135. It still works off of 110V but it large enough for most jobs on a car. I have access to a Larger Miller 350P and Econotig that I use for some projects. I've had good luck with either Miller or Lincoln Welders. A lot of it depends on how much your going to use it and what your doing with it.

[turbotom]

I had mine tig welded and machined as all the scrap yards did not have the parts and chrysler wanted up to $300.00 a piece for them and they are discontinued for some applications

[Putter]

I've got a lincoln 175p 220volt, it cost me about 830$ when i got it a few years ago.

[bluneon]

cool.

so the 110V ones are the ones i can plug into the regular wall outlet?

assuming i'm correct, then i would have to rewire the garage to work with the 220V welders since they have differant plugs?

Shadow16V: the paint you used would be the caliper type paint?

i was actually told to try JBweld from a guy at my work. i'll check that out.

but i'm still inclined on purchasing a welder.

[Putter]

There are times when being able to weld things comes in more handy than one would ever imagine.

The few times I've used 110volt machines I've been pretty disapointed. I would recommend at least a 220volt machine, you would only have to add one 50amp 220 outlet under the breaker panel if you want to do it easy. Assuming when you say garadge you mean the garadge where power comes into the house, if thats the case you should already have 220 in that panel.

Research before you buy one and talk to businesses that sell them, they can help you pick out the right one for you much better than many of us could over an internet forum.

[bluneon]

lol

the breaker is no where near the garage. how would i go about adding the 220 plug to the garage? would i be better off that way? or should i just buy a really beefy extention cable......