TurboDodge.com MarketPlace Shelby Registry Contact Us

Advertisement - Remove these ads today by clicking here.
 

Go Back   TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more! > Turbo Dodge Technical Chat > Suspension, Brakes, Tires, and Wheels

Suspension, Brakes, Tires, and Wheels This forum includes modification, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of the above parts and how to tune them for better traction and handling. Also includes wheel bearings and hubs, wheel studs and nuts, wheel spacers, and other rela

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools

Old 02-02-2005, 06:55 PM   #1
Shelby Brakes don't feel too good  
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Vancouver, Canada

My Ride: 92 Iroc R/T
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 285
Feedback: (0)
I have a 90 Shelby Daytona. It has all new brakes front and back, this includes rotors, pads, calipers. The rear brakes don't seem to be braking as much as they should.

The brake feel pretty crapy compared to my 90 Honda Civic Hatch snd it doesn't even have 4 wheel disc.

I bleed the brakes twice and they feel the same.

I'm thinking it could be the master or the booster?

Also, the E-brake feels tight but doesn't keep the car from stopping. It's ok on flat, but won't keep the car stopped on a hill. This is with the e-brake cranked real tight. What other adjustements could I make?
Shadona is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 10:52 PM   #2
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: DFW,TX

My Ride: mostly mopar
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 788
Feedback: (0)
Calipers on correct sides and mounted correctly? Makes complete bleeding impossible. Do the brakes feel worse than before you started? Some master cylinder funk may have come loose after pushing the brakes down farther than they usually go when you bled. It can make seals bypass pressure.
BLUEBALL is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2005, 12:11 AM   #3
 
Boostaholic
 
92lebaronGTC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV

My Ride: '92 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,182
Feedback: (0)
Images: 30
My lebaron seems the same, the rear brakes don't feel like they're doing anything but i've had them checked over and they seem fine, maybe their just weak, I want 4 wheel disc soon anyways.
__________________
-Steve Reject.

1992 Chrysler Lebaron GTC 3.0L
Engine K&N Cold Air Intake, 15* Ignition Timing, 52mm Throttle Body, Phenolic Intake Plenum Spacers, 2.25" catback, MSD Coil,Accel 8mm wires, NGK V-Power Plugs, HD Trans Cooler, Aluminum Radiator
Suspension A-Spec Strut Tower Bar, Falken ZE-502 205/55/16, Bilstein Sport Touring Struts, KYB Gas-a-just shocks, Boxed in Panhard Bar, Poly Sway Bushings, Polyurethane solid motor mounts,

TINT - 20% Front, 13% Rear, 15% Windshield Banner
92lebaronGTC is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2005, 05:42 PM   #4
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Peoria, IL

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 345
Feedback: (0)
I wouldn't worry about not having enough rear brake bias, as it's pretty typical for the G bodies. I could never tell if my rear brakes worked at all on my 89 daytona shelby, and that was with the rear vented disc brakes. The only turbo dodges I've driven with a lot of rear brake bias is my 87 CSX, as it'll spin the back end around if I tap the brakes around a corner
Jckrieger is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2005, 01:09 PM   #5
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl

My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284

Posts: 3,675
Feedback: (0)
I'd say to upgrade to SS-brake lines. This makes a nice difference in brake pedal feel.

As far as not having enough rear bias...you might want to look into changing the proportioning valve to one from a disc/drum car. I did the conversion on mine and didn't change the prop-valve...it works beautiful and I really can't complain about not having enough rear bias.

The only other thing I can think is what kind of pads did you get? Those ones you get at parts stores are not up to par IMHO. I HATE parts store brake pads. Go with something like Porterfeild Racing or EBC...you may find you have a lot more brake than you thought you did. The thing I CAN assure you of is that 11" vented rear rotors for these cars is WAY more than enough...even at over 150mph. Remember that over 70% of your braking is done with the fronts anyways.

As far as the e-brake, they are set-up just like drum brakes. They may need to be adjusted, or need new shoes.
Reaper1 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2005, 10:41 AM   #6
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB.

My Ride: 88 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,175
Feedback: (0)
I had issues with my ebrake. I adjust it under the car so that at 2 click the car is stopped pretty soild. To stop it from going backwards I had to adjust e-brake shoe spreader thingy to the top of the shoes were spread a part farther.
scott_s is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

» Quick Nav
- Home
- Classifieds
- Timeslips
- Gallery
- Vendors
-- Directory
- Tech Articles
- Donate
Sponsors
remove ads

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.0.1
Problem Mortgage | Xbox Mod Chips | Mobile Phones | Share Prices | Psychic Readings


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.2.0

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:49 PM.

Page generated in 0.39539 seconds with 13 queries