TurboDodge.com MarketPlace Shelby Registry Contact Us

Advertisement - Remove these ads today by clicking here.
 

Go Back   TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more! > Turbo Dodge Technical Chat > Suspension, Brakes, Tires, and Wheels

Suspension, Brakes, Tires, and Wheels This forum includes modification, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of the above parts and how to tune them for better traction and handling. Also includes wheel bearings and hubs, wheel studs and nuts, wheel spacers, and other rela

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools

Old 02-05-2005, 03:05 PM   #16
 
Boostaholic
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Newfoundland

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,106
Feedback: (0)
i have lomandi to, they seem to be a a good rotor seeing they weight more then my non crosdrilled and slotted ones, too bad they only make em for the front
mopar3.0 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2005, 03:21 PM   #17
Big Brake Kit  
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 181
Feedback: (1)
A company called TCE Performance Products makes the brake kit I have. It comes with the brackets, Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 13 x 1.10 rotors and hardware. At this point just the fronts are available, but they can build just about whatever you want. The holdup on the rears is the lack of an e-brake setup. Wilwood is supposed to have something coming for that later, but not yet. The TCE kit was made for a 92 Daytona, so your steering knuckles would have to use the same bolt on caliper brackets as the later Daytonas. You can find TCE at: tceperformanceproducts.com This was a custom kit so there isn't much mention of it on their website, but it uses the same rotors and calipers from the SRT-4 kit, just with different rotor hats and brackets. There was a thread about these maybe around September or October last year where I posted some pictures.
curbman68 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2005, 07:35 PM   #18
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl

My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284

Posts: 3,675
Feedback: (0)
I found an add in the most recent issue of Grassroots Motorsports that boasts a big brake kit for Dodge Daytona's right in it! I've gotta check it out, but I bet it is probably the same place...
Reaper1 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 10:43 AM   #19
 
GTCUL8R

 
Polygon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Utah

My Ride: 1989 LeBaron GTC
Engine: Turbo II 2.2L/135ci
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,658
Feedback: (0)
Images: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by STPVIPER
P.S. - Cross drilled rotors are designed to shed brake gasses, not heat. Heat isn't as much of a problem as the gas is, your pad floats on a layer of gas between the pad and rotor. The holes allow the gas to escape and therfore your pad squeezes the rotor better.
That is a marketing ploy. There is a reason they don't use cross-drilled rotors in major forms of racing such as F1, NASCAR, WRC, and GT. When you cross drill you're removing material and giving the pad less contact patch that translates into less effective braking. Cross-drilled rotors also have a tendency to crack.

If you're going to buy into cross drilled rotors then you have to get bigger rotors to compensate for the loss of pad material. Those of you that have bought cross-drilled rotors really need to stop relying on your butt dyno to tell you what is more effective and actually run a test between the two sets of rotors.
__________________
Clint: 1989 LeBaron GTC Turbo II - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT - 1987 LeBaron Premium Parts Car

My CarDomain Garage

I am looking for gray interior trim for a J-body (1987-1989) LeBaron coupe hardtop. If you have anything please PM me before throwing it out. I am also selling tan trim if you're interested.
Polygon is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 12:01 PM   #20
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada

My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: SOHC 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 762
Feedback: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polygon
That is a marketing ploy. There is a reason they don't use cross-drilled rotors in major forms of racing such as F1, NASCAR, WRC, and GT. When you cross drill you're removing material and giving the pad less contact patch that translates into less effective braking. Cross-drilled rotors also have a tendency to crack.

If you're going to buy into cross drilled rotors then you have to get bigger rotors to compensate for the loss of pad material. Those of you that have bought cross-drilled rotors really need to stop relying on your butt dyno to tell you what is more effective and actually run a test between the two sets of rotors.
Why do most Sport bikes and some Super cars have cross-drilled rotors right from the factory? I have Never Ever seen a KVR cross-drilled rotor crack, my friends have sold hundreds
91DSX is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 01:45 PM   #21
 
GTCUL8R

 
Polygon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Utah

My Ride: 1989 LeBaron GTC
Engine: Turbo II 2.2L/135ci
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,658
Feedback: (0)
Images: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91DSX
Why do most Sport bikes and some Super cars have cross-drilled rotors right from the factory? I have Never Ever seen a KVR cross-drilled rotor crack, my friends have sold hundreds
1. I don't know why sport bikes do. They have very minimal weight to stop so it isn't as important as in a car. Just remember that sport bike rotors are also solid and very thin. Those characteristics wouldn’t work in a car. You can’t compare the two.

2. Supercars come with them because, like I said, it is a marketing ploy and it sells cars. People equate it with high performance. However, if you look on Michael Schumacher’s F1 car you won't find cross-drilled rotors.

3. You don't use them enough to have them crack.
__________________
Clint: 1989 LeBaron GTC Turbo II - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT - 1987 LeBaron Premium Parts Car

My CarDomain Garage

I am looking for gray interior trim for a J-body (1987-1989) LeBaron coupe hardtop. If you have anything please PM me before throwing it out. I am also selling tan trim if you're interested.
Polygon is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 02:17 PM   #22
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com

My Ride: 1986 Plymouth Horizo
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 11.705

Posts: 2,548
Feedback: (0)
I have sold some cross drilled rotors that end up cranking when used on the road course.

In order to effectively increase braking force you need more swept area from a bigger pad. Drilled stock size rotors will deprive you of up to 10% of your swept area.

Slotted and/or drilled rotors CAN help with brake fade caused by overheated pads. As somebody mentioned earlier, when the pad gets to got, gasses from the pad will make the brakes slippery, similar in concept to an air hockey table. Slotted rotors help with this, but by the time your brakes are that hot, your brake fluid will soon overheat, and rotors won't help.

If you feel brake fade, but still have a firm pedal, it means your pads and rotors have overheated.
If you have no pedal.. your foot goes to the floor, your fluid is oveheated.
contraption22 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 02:47 PM   #23
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Enfield, Connecticut

Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 798
Feedback: (1)
See, this why I don't argue with people that "think" crossdrilled rotors work. Its like beating a rock with a stick. They don't want to hear or understand how brakes really work. Plus they relay on a saleperson for their bad info.

Since I do alot of autocrossing and a few track days. All the fastest drivers/cars don't have any fancy rotors. When you walk the pits at a road racing event, you will hardly see cross drilled rotors. I like to run what works personally.

Some supercars have them, and then stopped using them.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Polygon
That is a marketing ploy. There is a reason they don't use cross-drilled rotors in major forms of racing such as F1, NASCAR, WRC, and GT. When you cross drill you're removing material and giving the pad less contact patch that translates into less effective braking. Cross-drilled rotors also have a tendency to crack.

If you're going to buy into cross drilled rotors then you have to get bigger rotors to compensate for the loss of pad material. Those of you that have bought cross-drilled rotors really need to stop relying on your butt dyno to tell you what is more effective and actually run a test between the two sets of rotors.
daytonairoc is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 03:36 PM   #24
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba

My Ride: 1987 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 2,205
Feedback: (0)
the reason sport bikes have them is for the weight savings, as they don't need that much pad or rotor to slow them down so if they can take out weight by drilling them that's what the manufactures will do
Garret is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 10:01 PM   #25
 
Boostaholic
 
92lebaronGTC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV

My Ride: '92 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,182
Feedback: (0)
Images: 30
Would that wilwood front kit work on a 92 lebaron gtc at all? Or any of the other listed parts as well? My brakes suck, it's probably my crappy rear drums.
__________________
-Steve Reject.

1992 Chrysler Lebaron GTC 3.0L
Engine K&N Cold Air Intake, 15* Ignition Timing, 52mm Throttle Body, Phenolic Intake Plenum Spacers, 2.25" catback, MSD Coil,Accel 8mm wires, NGK V-Power Plugs, HD Trans Cooler, Aluminum Radiator
Suspension A-Spec Strut Tower Bar, Falken ZE-502 205/55/16, Bilstein Sport Touring Struts, KYB Gas-a-just shocks, Boxed in Panhard Bar, Poly Sway Bushings, Polyurethane solid motor mounts,

TINT - 20% Front, 13% Rear, 15% Windshield Banner
92lebaronGTC is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 10:24 PM   #26
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 181
Feedback: (1)
The Wilwood /TCE kit would would on your car, but if you have rear drums you probably also have the small diameter front rotors also. You might be better off just switching to the 11" front and the rear disc setup. It would certainly be more cost effective. Just stay away from the crossdrilled rotors.
curbman68 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 10:43 PM   #27
 
Boostaholic
 
92lebaronGTC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV

My Ride: '92 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,182
Feedback: (0)
Images: 30
So 11" rotors on the front and rear will work for me? I already have calipers/rotors for the rear disc setup, what else would I need? I heard I need the entire rear axle from a rear disc lebaron.
__________________
-Steve Reject.

1992 Chrysler Lebaron GTC 3.0L
Engine K&N Cold Air Intake, 15* Ignition Timing, 52mm Throttle Body, Phenolic Intake Plenum Spacers, 2.25" catback, MSD Coil,Accel 8mm wires, NGK V-Power Plugs, HD Trans Cooler, Aluminum Radiator
Suspension A-Spec Strut Tower Bar, Falken ZE-502 205/55/16, Bilstein Sport Touring Struts, KYB Gas-a-just shocks, Boxed in Panhard Bar, Poly Sway Bushings, Polyurethane solid motor mounts,

TINT - 20% Front, 13% Rear, 15% Windshield Banner
92lebaronGTC is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 12:56 PM   #28
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Salem, NH

My Ride: 84 600 convertible
Engine: 2.2 T1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 185
Feedback: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polygon
1. I don't know why sport bikes do. They have very minimal weight to stop so it isn't as important as in a car. Just remember that sport bike rotors are also solid and very thin. Those characteristics wouldn’t work in a car. You can’t compare the two.

2. Supercars come with them because, like I said, it is a marketing ploy and it sells cars. People equate it with high performance. However, if you look on Michael Schumacher’s F1 car you won't find cross-drilled rotors.

3. You don't use them enough to have them crack.

You won't see them on Michael Schumacher's Ferrari F1 car because they are not metal, they are carbon fiber. If you drill carbon fiber you are severly weakening them! Carbon metallic pads on cabon fiber rotors in F1. You are comparing apples to oranges. Cross drilled and slotted rotors is old technology in F1 and road racing, everyone uses carbon fiber now, so no need to drill and slot. And yes it does work to dissapate heat and gas on regular iron rotors with semi-metallic pads. Where you are getting your info is beyond me, as it was used in racing from the 50's to about the early 80's with much success.

If you think it was a marketing ploy, I bet you believe in conspiracy theories too......
Hemi-K is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 02:26 PM   #29
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: middleburg, FL

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,976
Feedback: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91DSX
I have Never Ever seen a KVR cross-drilled rotor crack, my friends have sold hundreds
LOL I haven't seen any that didn't crack, but that is in the 3500+ LS1 car world. They are laughed at routinely there. The won't make it through a weekend of AutoX without cracking or flat out breaking off in pieces. FYI, their blanks crack just as easily too
shelbyluvinfool is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 04:03 PM   #30
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada

My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: SOHC 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 762
Feedback: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by shelbyluvinfool
LOL I haven't seen any that didn't crack, but that is in the 3500+ LS1 car world. They are laughed at routinely there. The won't make it through a weekend of AutoX without cracking or flat out breaking off in pieces. FYI, their blanks crack just as easily too
Have these people sued KVR . . .?
91DSX is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

» Quick Nav
- Home
- Classifieds
- Timeslips
- Gallery
- Vendors
-- Directory
- Tech Articles
- Donate
Sponsors
remove ads