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02-07-2005, 07:35 PM
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#18
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284
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I found an add in the most recent issue of Grassroots Motorsports that boasts a big brake kit for Dodge Daytona's right in it! I've gotta check it out, but I bet it is probably the same place...
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02-08-2005, 10:43 AM
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#19
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GTCUL8R
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Utah
My Ride: 1989 LeBaron GTC
Engine: Turbo II 2.2L/135ci
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Originally Posted by STPVIPER
P.S. - Cross drilled rotors are designed to shed brake gasses, not heat. Heat isn't as much of a problem as the gas is, your pad floats on a layer of gas between the pad and rotor. The holes allow the gas to escape and therfore your pad squeezes the rotor better.
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That is a marketing ploy. There is a reason they don't use cross-drilled rotors in major forms of racing such as F1, NASCAR, WRC, and GT. When you cross drill you're removing material and giving the pad less contact patch that translates into less effective braking. Cross-drilled rotors also have a tendency to crack.
If you're going to buy into cross drilled rotors then you have to get bigger rotors to compensate for the loss of pad material. Those of you that have bought cross-drilled rotors really need to stop relying on your butt dyno to tell you what is more effective and actually run a test between the two sets of rotors.
__________________
Clint: 1989 LeBaron GTC Turbo II - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT - 1987 LeBaron Premium Parts Car
My CarDomain Garage
I am looking for gray interior trim for a J-body (1987-1989) LeBaron coupe hardtop. If you have anything please PM me before throwing it out. I am also selling tan trim if you're interested.
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02-08-2005, 12:01 PM
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#20
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: SOHC 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Originally Posted by Polygon
That is a marketing ploy. There is a reason they don't use cross-drilled rotors in major forms of racing such as F1, NASCAR, WRC, and GT. When you cross drill you're removing material and giving the pad less contact patch that translates into less effective braking. Cross-drilled rotors also have a tendency to crack.
If you're going to buy into cross drilled rotors then you have to get bigger rotors to compensate for the loss of pad material. Those of you that have bought cross-drilled rotors really need to stop relying on your butt dyno to tell you what is more effective and actually run a test between the two sets of rotors.
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Why do most Sport bikes and some Super cars have cross-drilled rotors right from the factory?  I have Never Ever seen a KVR cross-drilled rotor crack, my friends have sold hundreds
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02-08-2005, 01:45 PM
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#21
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GTCUL8R
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Utah
My Ride: 1989 LeBaron GTC
Engine: Turbo II 2.2L/135ci
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Originally Posted by 91DSX
Why do most Sport bikes and some Super cars have cross-drilled rotors right from the factory?  I have Never Ever seen a KVR cross-drilled rotor crack, my friends have sold hundreds 
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1. I don't know why sport bikes do. They have very minimal weight to stop so it isn't as important as in a car. Just remember that sport bike rotors are also solid and very thin. Those characteristics wouldn’t work in a car. You can’t compare the two.
2. Supercars come with them because, like I said, it is a marketing ploy and it sells cars. People equate it with high performance. However, if you look on Michael Schumacher’s F1 car you won't find cross-drilled rotors.
3. You don't use them enough to have them crack.
__________________
Clint: 1989 LeBaron GTC Turbo II - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT - 1987 LeBaron Premium Parts Car
My CarDomain Garage
I am looking for gray interior trim for a J-body (1987-1989) LeBaron coupe hardtop. If you have anything please PM me before throwing it out. I am also selling tan trim if you're interested.
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02-08-2005, 02:17 PM
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#22
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com
My Ride: 1986 Plymouth Horizo
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 11.705
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I have sold some cross drilled rotors that end up cranking when used on the road course.
In order to effectively increase braking force you need more swept area from a bigger pad. Drilled stock size rotors will deprive you of up to 10% of your swept area.
Slotted and/or drilled rotors CAN help with brake fade caused by overheated pads. As somebody mentioned earlier, when the pad gets to got, gasses from the pad will make the brakes slippery, similar in concept to an air hockey table. Slotted rotors help with this, but by the time your brakes are that hot, your brake fluid will soon overheat, and rotors won't help.
If you feel brake fade, but still have a firm pedal, it means your pads and rotors have overheated.
If you have no pedal.. your foot goes to the floor, your fluid is oveheated.
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02-08-2005, 02:47 PM
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#23
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Enfield, Connecticut
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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See, this why I don't argue with people that "think" crossdrilled rotors work. Its like beating a rock with a stick. They don't want to hear or understand how brakes really work. Plus they relay on a saleperson for their bad info.
Since I do alot of autocrossing and a few track days. All the fastest drivers/cars don't have any fancy rotors. When you walk the pits at a road racing event, you will hardly see cross drilled rotors. I like to run what works personally.
Some supercars have them, and then stopped using them.
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Originally Posted by Polygon
That is a marketing ploy. There is a reason they don't use cross-drilled rotors in major forms of racing such as F1, NASCAR, WRC, and GT. When you cross drill you're removing material and giving the pad less contact patch that translates into less effective braking. Cross-drilled rotors also have a tendency to crack.
If you're going to buy into cross drilled rotors then you have to get bigger rotors to compensate for the loss of pad material. Those of you that have bought cross-drilled rotors really need to stop relying on your butt dyno to tell you what is more effective and actually run a test between the two sets of rotors.
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02-08-2005, 03:36 PM
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#24
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
My Ride: 1987 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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the reason sport bikes have them is for the weight savings, as they don't need that much pad or rotor to slow them down so if they can take out weight by drilling them that's what the manufactures will do
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02-08-2005, 10:01 PM
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#25
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV
My Ride: '92 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Would that wilwood front kit work on a 92 lebaron gtc at all? Or any of the other listed parts as well? My brakes suck, it's probably my crappy rear drums.
__________________
-Steve Reject.
1992 Chrysler Lebaron GTC 3.0L
Engine K&N Cold Air Intake, 15* Ignition Timing, 52mm Throttle Body, Phenolic Intake Plenum Spacers, 2.25" catback, MSD Coil,Accel 8mm wires, NGK V-Power Plugs, HD Trans Cooler, Aluminum Radiator
Suspension A-Spec Strut Tower Bar, Falken ZE-502 205/55/16, Bilstein Sport Touring Struts, KYB Gas-a-just shocks, Boxed in Panhard Bar, Poly Sway Bushings, Polyurethane solid motor mounts,
TINT - 20% Front, 13% Rear, 15% Windshield Banner
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02-08-2005, 10:43 PM
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#27
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV
My Ride: '92 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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So 11" rotors on the front and rear will work for me? I already have calipers/rotors for the rear disc setup, what else would I need? I heard I need the entire rear axle from a rear disc lebaron.
__________________
-Steve Reject.
1992 Chrysler Lebaron GTC 3.0L
Engine K&N Cold Air Intake, 15* Ignition Timing, 52mm Throttle Body, Phenolic Intake Plenum Spacers, 2.25" catback, MSD Coil,Accel 8mm wires, NGK V-Power Plugs, HD Trans Cooler, Aluminum Radiator
Suspension A-Spec Strut Tower Bar, Falken ZE-502 205/55/16, Bilstein Sport Touring Struts, KYB Gas-a-just shocks, Boxed in Panhard Bar, Poly Sway Bushings, Polyurethane solid motor mounts,
TINT - 20% Front, 13% Rear, 15% Windshield Banner
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02-18-2005, 12:56 PM
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#28
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Salem, NH
My Ride: 84 600 convertible
Engine: 2.2 T1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Originally Posted by Polygon
1. I don't know why sport bikes do. They have very minimal weight to stop so it isn't as important as in a car. Just remember that sport bike rotors are also solid and very thin. Those characteristics wouldn’t work in a car. You can’t compare the two.
2. Supercars come with them because, like I said, it is a marketing ploy and it sells cars. People equate it with high performance. However, if you look on Michael Schumacher’s F1 car you won't find cross-drilled rotors.
3. You don't use them enough to have them crack.
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You won't see them on Michael Schumacher's Ferrari F1 car because they are not metal, they are carbon fiber. If you drill carbon fiber you are severly weakening them! Carbon metallic pads on cabon fiber rotors in F1. You are comparing apples to oranges. Cross drilled and slotted rotors is old technology in F1 and road racing, everyone uses carbon fiber now, so no need to drill and slot. And yes it does work to dissapate heat and gas on regular iron rotors with semi-metallic pads. Where you are getting your info is beyond me, as it was used in racing from the 50's to about the early 80's with much success.
If you think it was a marketing ploy, I bet you believe in conspiracy theories too......
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02-18-2005, 04:03 PM
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#30
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: SOHC 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by shelbyluvinfool
LOL I haven't seen any that didn't crack, but that is in the 3500+ LS1 car world. They are laughed at routinely there. The won't make it through a weekend of AutoX without cracking or flat out breaking off in pieces. FYI, their blanks crack just as easily too
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Have these people sued KVR . . .?
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