Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

drifted · **slh brakes**

Ok so the car i am building is a charger , i have a 90 shelby dayona i am stripping , is the master cyl in it gunna work the minivan front calipers and the disks off of the dayona on my charger ?
and when i was at the wreakers yesterday i noticed the minivan calipers were all monted directly to the spindle , how do i mount these to the charger ?

The S is Silent · 02-13-2005, 03:12 PM

http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/shelby/slhpkgs.htm

To do all wheel disc brakes, you need the bigger master cylinder. If the daytona has all wheel disks, it should do just fine.

capev86 · 02-13-2005, 10:39 PM

why bother with the caravan brakes? daytona probably has as good if not better brakes on the front. i dont know why people bother with the older van brakes. you can get the newer (dual pin instead of single pin) k/h 60mm calipers and 10-1/4" rotors from an early 90's dynasty or similar bodystyle. dynasty will also have the 24mm m/c if your donor car doesn't have one!

be sure and swap over the prop valve from the donor car w/ the rear disc

Putter · 02-14-2005, 12:00 AM

I've got all the wheel hardware on my l-body from an 86 turboz daytona. Thats the 2 pin front calipers and 220mm rear drums. It seems many people don't think they are enough(and by how they look on my car it might be true for me) but I've never had any brake fade with them (I even made 3 consecutive 100+mph stops one night just to see). I may goto the 11" brakes someday, but these work well. The only thing I don't like about them is the pedal is ROCK hard, I've even made sure my booster is working heh.

Daytona brakes, Omni carb'd master cylinder and omni prop valve is whats on my car. I'm not sure if the proportioning is right because I'm having a hard time getting the rear linings to conform to the drum (aftermarket junk shoes). I'll have to replace the shoes before I know for sure.

capev86 · 02-14-2005, 10:53 PM

the 10-1/4" rotors (vs. 9-1/2") and 220mm drums (vs. 200mm) will make a difference on an l body. i'd personally go w/ 90's dynasty fronts, 24mm m/c and solid disc rear, but no more, as the l bodys are soooo light. the setup you are using would make an improvement on a k car too!

86Shelby · 02-14-2005, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Putter

I may goto the 11" brakes someday, but these work well. The only thing I don't like about them is the pedal is ROCK hard, I've even made sure my booster is working heh.

They do work pretty well. I upgraded the front brakes when I needed to put pads & rotors on it.

The most common cause of the hard pedal is mis-adjusted rear brakes. Loosen the adjusters and see what happens to the pedal feel. The more often the parking brake is used the tighter the rears will become.

Putter · 02-15-2005, 12:19 AM

My shoes don't fit the drum properly at all, they're not curved right and it only happens that the corners of each shoe contact the drum, I've ground some off trying to get a better contact, but I think I'll end up having to replace them. The drums are basically doing nothing right now, even after a few stops to get the fronts up to temp (where the wheel is starting to get hot) the rear drums will hardly be warm to the touch, and un-even side to side at that. They're so poor contact, that even with new e-brake cables I can set the brake and it'll roll down a hill.

86Shelby · 02-15-2005, 12:29 AM

Double check all your brake lines and hoses for the rear. You may have a pinched hardline or a colapsed brake hose. Also check the wheel cylinders. You should be able to move the shoes front to rear and back pretty easily. Peel the rubber boots back. You should find just a trace of brake fluid, and no rust. A dusting of rust in the boots is acceptable but it does raise a flag. If the cylinders are siezed internally that can also cause the hard pedal with abnormal wear and the uneven heating you describe. Definetly sounds like something along those lines.

Putter · 02-15-2005, 08:55 AM

Those are all great suggestions but I've already checked alot of that, and everything is new but the backing plates. The shoes I bought were bottom dollar and when I checked them inside the drumb the contact patch was horrid, and I didn't want to make another trip to town, so I threw them in hoping they might 'come out of it' but of course they didn't. That will teach me for being lazy

It looks to me like the shoes were made with the idea of a worn drum, they're about 4mm larger dia- than stock. I'll prolly end up just bringing it down here to the dealership and changing them in spring so I'll at least be able to use my hoist...I'm getting sick of being on the floor at home. Thanks for your suggestions.

drifted · 02-17-2005, 11:56 PM

but do the spindles need to be changed?

Putter · 02-18-2005, 12:05 AM

Everything should be as simple as grabbing the caliper, and caliper bracket, the only ones that need a knuckle change are the R/T 11" brakes, and the rears need the hubs swapped if your changing anything, but the spindles should have all the same measurements. (I know for certain that daytona and l-body rear spindles are the same, just the hubs were different)