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Suspension, Brakes, Tires, and Wheels This forum includes modification, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of the above parts and how to tune them for better traction and handling. Also includes wheel bearings and hubs, wheel studs and nuts, wheel spacers, and other rela

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Old 02-25-2005, 12:23 AM   #16
 
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I'm not saying to hit the nut or the threads, not even the tie rod end, i'm saying to hit the side of the knuckle. Then there is no possibility of damaging the tie rod.
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:36 AM   #17
 
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I used another crude trick for the tie rod ends a couple weeks ago. I put the jack under the joint (ie. where the nut goes), put some upward pressure on it, and then hit the spindle side downwards with the hammer. It worked VERY well, and it doesn't damage the boots or anything.

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Old 02-25-2005, 11:49 AM   #18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Putter
I'm not saying to hit the nut or the threads, not even the tie rod end, i'm saying to hit the side of the knuckle. Then there is no possibility of damaging the tie rod.
I know what you were saying, you gave good advise. I was just saying to keep the nut on a little, becasue if you are swinging hard and miss, hitting the thread on it you can damage it and be sol and have to spend $$$. it is just a safe gard . I found you info to be very good to those that wonder how to take spindles or tie rods off with out a special tool. I do it the same way.
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:55 AM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2xejk
Was this on the cast control arms or the older ones which look like they had thinner metal shells surrounding the bushings? I used a propane torch on my cast control arms for 20 minutes and never heard them crackle or saw ribbons of rubber come out...
I used a $30 Walmart propane soldering torch. They were cast 91 arms. Be sure to use the tip of the inner light blue flame on the metal, it's the hottest part. Perhaps you simply needed to adjust the torch tip a bit. I see your later post where you got them out with another torch. Good stuff.
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