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Suspension, Brakes, Tires, and Wheels This forum includes modification, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of the above parts and how to tune them for better traction and handling. Also includes wheel bearings and hubs, wheel studs and nuts, wheel spacers, and other rela

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Old 02-19-2005, 06:33 PM   #1
Removing control arm bushings?  
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How have people removed the control arm bushings from the _cast_ control arms?

Heating it with a propane torch doesn't seem to be working?

Any better suggestions/ideas?

Thanks!
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Old 02-19-2005, 07:05 PM   #2
 
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Email Johnny Spiva @ PolyBushings.com, he can help ya with it.
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Old 02-19-2005, 07:44 PM   #3
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2xejk
How have people removed the control arm bushings from the _cast_ control arms?

Heating it with a propane torch doesn't seem to be working?
Torch worked for me, 5 mins per bushing. You have to heat the arm until you hear crackling, and little ribbons of liquid rubber squirt out. At that point, stop heating, take a mallet and hit the metal sleeve in the bushing. Be sure to heat both sides evenly. It should shoot right out. I recommend you do this over a garbage can because the liquid rubber gets on everything. Varsol takes it out.
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Old 02-20-2005, 12:02 AM   #4
 
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I was wondering this today. No matter how much I beat on it, it wouldn't release.

A little persuasion from the hot wrench is all it takes! Thanks. Do you just torch the little rubber boot that is on it too?
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Old 02-20-2005, 08:22 PM   #5
 
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No, flame never touched rubber. If it's crackling hot, it should pop right out. I banged it out of the arm and onto the garage floor, and I had a smoking ball of liquid/soft rubber rolling around leaving a black trail on my floor. Much cursing and comical chasing around. LOL
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Old 02-20-2005, 09:51 PM   #6
 
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Was this on the cast control arms or the older ones which look like they had thinner metal shells surrounding the bushings? I used a propane torch on my cast control arms for 20 minutes and never heard them crackle or saw ribbons of rubber come out...

I have thought about getting a MAPP gas torch to get more heat.... At the same time I worry that I will get things too hot and damage the control arm? Is that a real/realistic concern?
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Old 02-22-2005, 01:11 AM   #7
Removing bushings  
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I have heated the cast ones a few times and as long as you heat evenly all around it works. Look here....
http://www.polybushings.com/pages/1020instruc1.html

Shows how to on a stamped arm but is the same principle.


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Old 02-22-2005, 06:36 PM   #8
 
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To bring this full circle. I purchased a MAPP gas torch and that did the trick.... Less than 5 minutes of heating and the "ribbon" of rubber came out. A couple taps with the
hammer and out they came.

Thanks
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Old 02-22-2005, 08:16 PM   #9
 
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Ok...wrong part. I was thinking of where the steering arm goes into the steering knuckle. Does anybody know how to get that apart? Just heat and beat?
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:21 PM   #10
 
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Matt, are you talking about where the steering rack connects to the knuckle/wheel hub? The trick to that is to take the nut off, and hit the side of the knuckle not, the steering linkage, hitting the side with a big hammer and the knuckle will 'spring' out of shape quick enough to let go of the steering linkage, and the tie rod end will come right out.
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:21 PM   #11
 
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The tie rod ends? There's a puller type tool that shoves the joint apart. Works like a champ. In a pinch, a picklefork will get it apart with a large enough sledge hammer.. But it'll do permanent damage to the tie rod end (not a problem if your replacing it).
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:35 PM   #12
 
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Thanks for the tips guys. I noticed on another car that the linkage is shaped like a wedge where it goes into the knuckle. I'll give the tool a try...I'm headed to the parts store to sort out an idle issue this week anyways.
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:45 PM   #13
 
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Yes, it is a tapered fit to the hole in the knuckle, If you hit the side of the knuckle as if you were trying to hit the taper itself, it will pop out. You will have to hit it fairly hard with a moderate sized hammer for this to work. Once you master it, you will never used the special tool again, its just not worth it, unless you're trying to protect the paint or something.
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:16 PM   #14
 
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^ ya and leave the nut part way on so if you do miss and hit the threads you don't bung them up. if all else fails get a bigger hammer!!!!
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Old 02-24-2005, 08:55 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2xejk
How have people removed the control arm bushings from the _cast_ control arms?

Heating it with a propane torch doesn't seem to be working?

Any better suggestions/ideas?

Thanks!
Heh I used a steak knife and just cut the rubber ears off from one side. I then knocked it out with a socket and a BFH. It took me less than 20 minutes to do both of them. I didn't even use the vise.... The cast arms are MUCH easier to deal with than the old style single hinge ones.

The torch method sounds smelly...

-Rich
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