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04-25-2005, 04:56 PM
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#1
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removing front springs in an Sc
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Prescott, AZ
My Ride: 1985 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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The previous owner of my charger put in new struts, but the nose sits WAY too high. The rear sags until the top of the tire is JUST at the lip of the fender, very cool, but the front is about 2" before the tire hits the fender... ewwwww.
So I wanna pull the springs out and cut off a coil or 2...
I wanna make sure I do this safe, I'm no moron
My question is, is it possible to use a floorjack to release the spring tension on the front springs? IE, remove the top nut off the strut, and use a jack to let the wheel down (I have jackstands, etc) to let the pressure off? or is it 100% absolutely necessary to use a spring compressor? And do I have to remove the strut from the knuckle?
I think I know the answers that are coming, just verifying my suspicions
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04-25-2005, 07:35 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Portland, OR
My Ride: 1980 Fiat X-1/9
Engine: Chrysler 2.2 turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Nope, the factory preloads the springs quite a bit. Go borrow/rent/buy (autozone) a set of strut spring compressors.
You can leave the knuckle attched toe the strut, but you'll need to reset the alignment anyway.
You probably need new springs and to ditch the KYB's
FWD-Performance sells lowering springs for the L-bodies.
Stefan
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04-25-2005, 07:39 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Hagerstown, MD
My Ride: 88 sundance
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Phreakish
The previous owner of my charger put in new struts, but the nose sits WAY too high. The rear sags until the top of the tire is JUST at the lip of the fender, very cool, but the front is about 2" before the tire hits the fender... ewwwww.
So I wanna pull the springs out and cut off a coil or 2...
I wanna make sure I do this safe, I'm no moron
My question is, is it possible to use a floorjack to release the spring tension on the front springs? IE, remove the top nut off the strut, and use a jack to let the wheel down (I have jackstands, etc) to let the pressure off? or is it 100% absolutely necessary to use a spring compressor? And do I have to remove the strut from the knuckle?
I think I know the answers that are coming, just verifying my suspicions 
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ive done it like that before, but no on a l body, but prolly how ill do it in my p body
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04-25-2005, 07:44 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Portland, OR
My Ride: 1980 Fiat X-1/9
Engine: Chrysler 2.2 turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Think again. With the pre-loaded springs you'll run out of suspension travel before you run out of spring tension. I certainly wouldn't do that with strut just sitting on top of a jack as it could get ugly quick!
Stefan
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04-25-2005, 09:39 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Prescott, AZ
My Ride: 1985 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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thats what i was wondering, how much the spring still had in it when at max travel.
I WOULD go get the right parts and such, but I'm not good in a financial way right now (college student, end of semester, and lots of work on car that I didn't anticipate).
If I leave the strut attached to the knuckle, then I gotta pull the knuckle off the ball joint and pull the tie rod, I dont want to do that. I'm more comfortable marking and resetting the camber than I am with the toe and messing with the ball joints (dont want to have to replace them TOO).
My tires are shot, alignment isn't great as-is, and I'm replacing them this summer, but with the nose up there I also notice a decrease in gas milage and the nose gets 'happy' when I'm facing a headwind. I have a good 9 inches or more from the chin to the ground... Rear has maybe 5-6 inches from skirt to ground.
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04-25-2005, 09:48 PM
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#6
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Hagerstown, MD
My Ride: 88 sundance
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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leave the strut attached to the control arm, then let it down real slow dont try to unattach the strut then let it down, that would be a disaster. If your scared get springs compressors, u could prolly rent them from a parts store. THe other option is take the whole strut assembly out take it to a shop and for a few bucks they could put it on a wall mount spring compressor and take the spring out for ya. If u cut the springs, then they prolly would be short enough to put back together wit out compressing them to get them on the strut. 2 wraps of coil is prolly a little much unless u really wannna dirt it.
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04-25-2005, 11:18 PM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Prescott, AZ
My Ride: 1985 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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well, the front sits pretty high. I probably wont go 2 coils, going to go slow, probably start with 1 and see how that goes. If its too high, I'll go another 1/4 to 1/2 and see how that is. From what I've seen, 1.5 is enough for most, but I won't know until I do it.
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04-26-2005, 12:22 PM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: In old Europa
My Ride: 89TII Shelby Daytona
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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If you have fresh struts, and its really up high up front, 2 coils will get you level I bet...especially on that lightweight car...
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04-27-2005, 02:17 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Prescott, AZ
My Ride: 1985 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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yeah - I used to work there, they have two different types of compressors too.
The front is REALLY high, and the car IS light. The nose gets even lighter when I hammer it and traction is a real issue despite fair tires...
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05-03-2005, 06:35 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kamloops
My Ride: shelby charger
Engine: 2.2T
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I just cut the coils in my car and is was no problem I even did them in the strut save alot of hassle even though I new it was not a good idea, and even made me nervice but as much of a red neck I am, I still used an angle grinder cut one and a half ciols of the stock srings, but when I cut them I only cut about half way through then gave them a wack with a hammer a couple of times and if it didnt pop I cut a tad bit more being really carefull and slow and wacked it again when they did give it wasnt too dramatic and the srtut cought itself so no springs flying I did the back too == it all worked out great handles alot better then stock, and whe I cut 1/2 an extra coil I just had to spin the bucket at the top 180 deg.
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05-03-2005, 08:47 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Prescott, AZ
My Ride: 1985 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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I was thinking of doing this, but also using a spring compressor at the same time, lol. I dont want the spring to hop off the seat and have all sorts of problems... I might try this tomarrow as finals *just* ended for me and I drive to CA in a few days, I'd like to get the nose down a bit to help with fuel milage, the nose is really hanging up there in the wind causing lots of undercarriage drag!
EDIT:
WHAT END should I cut the coils off of? top? bottom? does it matter? I think I recall seeing most cut them off the bottom.
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05-03-2005, 10:22 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
My Ride: 82 Dodge Rampage
Engine: Turbo I 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Here, this might help ya out a bit. http://fwdmopar.50megs.com/lowered.html ...this is how a lowered the front on my Rampage. Make sure and use those spring lox!!! are the coils will fall off the perch every time you jack your car up
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05-03-2005, 10:22 PM
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#15
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by fiat22turbo
You probably need new springs and to ditch the KYB's
FWD-Performance sells lowering springs for the L-bodies.
Stefan
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Why ditch the KYB's, there a good brand?
 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Phreakish
WHAT END should I cut the coils off of? top? bottom? does it matter? I think I recall seeing most cut them off the bottom.
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Don't cut the bottoms, there smaller so they fit on the base of the strut.
You can mark away but if your lowering it, all your settings will change. AFter you get it all done, you will have to eyeball it as you will go toe out now and more neg camber!
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