Refreshing rear drums

[Jack's Dodge]

My brake pedal is a bit soft, and would like my brake system to be as shrap as possible. Re-bled the brakes yesterday, and found some air was still in the lines. That helped, but I know the rear drums can be adjusted. Not sure how to do this? Is there a kit to repalce the old stuff? Having a 20 year old brake system make me a bit leary. Any input on rebuilding rear drums is appreciated.

[holley]

Putting in new shoes & drums may help, it's an easy enough job. The rear drums should adjust-up as they wear, if thats stuck it'll cause more pedal movement and uneven hard-braking. Parts places still keep 'brake hardware kits' that include all the springs etc if needed.

If thats not tight enough, and all the lines and front brakes are fine, look into replacing the flexi lines with steel-braided ones that won't expand under hard braking.

To get the rear drums off you have to undo the central nut (don't know why they didn't just use a regular drum like everyone else), inside it'll all regular equipment though.

[Jack's Dodge]

Thanks. I'll dig into that next check!

[iangoround]

The hub and the drum ARE separate peices, but if they are all original parts, the drum will be rusted on to the hub pretty good. If you know you're going to replace the drums anyway, warm them up with a torch and hammer the crap out of them until they fall off.

Last time I got new drums it was only $20 a side. Slightly more than machining the original drums and a lot more convienent.

As long as you're back there, you might want to replace or atleast re-pack the rear wheel bearings with fresh grease.

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by iangoround The hub and the drum ARE separate peices, but if they are all original parts, the drum will be rusted on to the hub pretty good. If you know you're going to replace the drums anyway, warm them up with a torch and hammer the crap out of them until they fall off.

Wrong, if original, the factory stakes the wheel stud down which locks the drum on the hub. Hammering the drum off could damage the bearings or bend the hub.
The easiest way to remove the drum off the hub is to hammer the wheel studs in, using an air chisel, lead hammer or block of brass so you don't damage the stud, aprox 1/8 of an inch. This lets the drum fall off. Now simply remove the hub, and beat the studs back into place.
Get new drums etc and now you need to slightly grind the stud holes larger, this lets the drum clear the staking. Now mark the drum and one stud so this is your permanent reference mark. Tighten down the drum onto the hub with some nuts and machine the drum, this trues the drum to the hub, you will be suprised on how out of round it is. Now reassembe all new brakes, adjuster cables, repack bearings. You should also replace the wheel cylinders as there probably original or very old, plus there dirt cheap. Put it all together and at the bottom of the backing plate, is a small hole with a rubber plug. Remove the plug and use a small screwdriver to move the star wheel, it will only move one way. Spin the drum and adjust for a light drag. Apply the brakes and recheck, you might need to do this a few times.

[PentastarTurbo]

if you do hammer out the hub's, make sure you use some old lugnuts on the wheel studs if you plan on reusing the hub.. that way insted of hitting the stud, your hitting a nut and wont mushroom anything out with the mounding.. my old drum setup, when I swapped my whole brake system over to shelby charger stats.. I added braided stainless brake lines from FWD and it felt great.