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07-29-2005, 07:58 PM
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#1
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Brake Caliper Piston!!
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Versailles, MO
My Ride: '88 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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How do I compress the pistons on my rear brakes? Its on an 88 Z...
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07-29-2005, 08:02 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: nj
My Ride: TIII R/T
Engine: 2.2L TURBO III
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.743
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are they on the car or off of it? if off use a C clamp to compress it, if on the car, remove the caliper , i e pry it off then compress it
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07-29-2005, 08:13 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: NE Ohio
My Ride: 87 Z
Engine: 2.2 (+.040)
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.130
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doesn't the piston look solid with recesses in the outer edge? should look like a plus sign in a way... if so they are actuated and need to be "screwed" back into the bore. For this u'll need a special tool available at the parts store. It looks like a cube with different sides for different styles of pistons. If the 88's still had the "actuated" style calipers, and u try to just force the piston back into the bore, u will destroy them. -J
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07-29-2005, 08:22 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Versailles, MO
My Ride: '88 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by 87shelbyt2
doesn't the piston look solid with recesses in the outer edge? should look like a plus sign in a way... if so they are actuated and need to be "screwed" back into the bore. For this u'll need a special tool available at the parts store. It looks like a cube with different sides for different styles of pistons. If the 88's still had the "actuated" style calipers, and u try to just force the piston back into the bore, u will destroy them. -J
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WHAT!!!!! I hope thats not my case.
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07-29-2005, 08:41 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: nj
My Ride: TIII R/T
Engine: 2.2L TURBO III
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.743
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i dunno what the heck kind of calipers you got, but any car, any yr all gens i had, and all makes have always worked the same when a c-clamp, clamping the pad to the backing and squeezing them in by turning it tight is an old way that any mechanic knows also if nothing else, undo the brake fluid fitting and the pressure will be off and the piston should release.
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07-29-2005, 09:09 PM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Versailles, MO
My Ride: '88 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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yea, they aren't budging. So I need new calipers? I need the "loaded" ones right?
This sucks. I'm running out or time. Gotta be running tomorrow afternoon and noone to take me to Autozone...
EDIT: HOLY #^%#!!! I just priced new calipers. 75 each plus a 75 core!!!!
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07-29-2005, 09:17 PM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: langley city
My Ride: 86' DAYTONA TURBO Z
Engine: 2.2L TURBO 1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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A loaded caliper comes with new pads(for that side), all the hardware(brackets if any), and the caliper itself. But if it's justa seized piston I don't see the need for a loaded caliper, just get a bare caliper, it'd be way cheaper that way...
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07-29-2005, 09:22 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MOTOR CITY
My Ride: 2005 Dodge SRT-4 ACR
Engine: 2.4L DOHC Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Stevien1
The rear calipers are so small, I usually use a pair of channel-lock pliers. If your using a c-clamp and they don't move without a ton of force, go get replacements.
The rear calipers on mainly FWD GM cars thread back in with the special tool. Chrysler's rear calipers just push back in.
-Chuck James
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the reason gm's were threaded was becuase they integrated the parking brake, chrysler's should push back in , however, if the piston has notches in it, it's threaed and has to be twisted back in - if you push you'll jump the thread and booger up the caliper bore.
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07-29-2005, 09:26 PM
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#10
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Rebuild them
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wilmington, Ohio
My Ride: 05 srt4,87 omni drag
Engine: 2.4,2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I rebuilt both of my rear calipers for 10 bucks. Take an old brake pad and put it in the rear caliper. Apply shop air pressure to the caliper to blow the piston out, DONT put your hands where they can get hit. ouch!
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07-29-2005, 09:35 PM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Versailles, MO
My Ride: '88 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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no air tools. I'm doing this by hand, in the dark, in my driveway.
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07-29-2005, 09:36 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: nj
My Ride: TIII R/T
Engine: 2.2L TURBO III
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.743
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loaded calipers are the best way to go, i know they are cheaper than 75, i think mine when i was pricing them was about 45 i think with core. try advanced auto parts on the web
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07-29-2005, 09:57 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Versailles, MO
My Ride: '88 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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advance has them, but not in stock. and they are 50 bucks + core.
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07-29-2005, 10:01 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Versailles, MO
My Ride: '88 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by DodgeGarage
advance has them, but not in stock. and they are 50 bucks + core.
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Hell, do I even need rear brakes? Can I plug the brake line and only use the fronts for a couple days?
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07-29-2005, 10:10 PM
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#15
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: nj
My Ride: TIII R/T
Engine: 2.2L TURBO III
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.743
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i wouldnt try that, i was looking for braking about 2 yrs ago so the price might have gone up since then.
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