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92 shadow miss fire

802 views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  gaboon 
#1 ·
My 92 turbo shadow seems to have a random miss, I left my house and went 1 or 2 km and it missed 3 or 4 times so I turned around and went back home and it stalled when I pulled in my driveway. When I restarted after the stall it seemed to smell rich, and a puff of black smoke.
Checked codes they are 12,37,53,55. I have a socketed sbec so that explains 53.
Code 37 appears to be the baro read solenoid according to minimopar resources.
Getting good battery voltage to the baro solenoid when key is on. Haven't checked baro to sbec yet. Connector is good, clean.

Is there a ohm test for the solenoid itself?

Will the baro cause a missing when driving?

Is code 37 for the baro solenoid in a 1992 turbo car?
 
#2 ·
Code 37 on 90 + is the PTU(Lock Up Solenoid)circuit.
Code 61 is Baro Read Solenoid.

You are stalling and running rich(black smoke)
That can be cause by numerous things and each system needs to be checked to be sure it is functioning properly.
1)Vacuum Leak
2)Fuel Pressure
3)Cam Timing
4)Map Calibration
5)Ignition Issues

What other mods have been done to this car?
 
#3 ·
I was thinking 37 was different in 92, Would you have a list of codes for 92 cars it would be great for a quick reference.

I'm thinking it might have been rich cause the car was still cold, and when it stalled it was running smooth and just shut down.

1) Checked all vacuum lines appears to be all good
2) fuel pressure at idle 52psi and 62psi with vac removed
3) Haven't checked cam timing be stock Vac gauge shows about 20 inHg and very steady so timing I assume is good
4) Map calibration? Just a stock 2 bar map
5)Ignition wires, cap, and coil all newer and in good condition sprayed water on and wiggled wires when running no miss accrued, I am however going to get a new set of plugs just in case, current running a old set of ngk v power plug which I swap out at the lapping school when my vac line came off the baro solenoid and fouled the bosch platinum plugs. I will go with standard Champion plugs this time, I've never had any issues with them.

So after I did the fuel pressure test I fired the car up and 30 seconds later of smooth idle then it died, no miss just shut off. The car fired right back up and idled so I went under the hood and started to wiggle wires, connectors, and plugs to all sensors. Finally I wiggled the wires/plugs to the HEP and the engine stumbled, I kept wiggling them but it only did it the once, very frustrating. So I shut the car off and unplug them, one seemed pretty loose so I spread open the small round pins on the hep side of the plug with the end of my test light, this tighten up the connection. I restarted the car wiggled the wires and plugs some more, engine never stumbled.
I took it for another drive and its running great, I keep a spare hep and screw driver in my trunk maybe I'll throw my stock sbec in there too.

My car is a 1992 Shadow T1 5 speed, Stock engine and vac system, factory boost control, Boostbutton cal for 14psi, FMIC, K&N in stock air box, 3inch exhaust downpipe back, walbro 255 fuel pump
 
#4 ·
Looks like you may have found your issue with the HEP, however...

The only thing I am seeing that is not correct is your fuel pressure which is high.
(Assuming your Fuel Pressure Gauge is Accurate)
Static Rail Pressure (Key On/Engine Off or Engine Running and FPR Vacuum Reference Disconnected) should be 53-57 PSI and you say you are at 62 PSI.
 
#6 ·
I will recheck fuel pressure to be sure, if it is high I'll try a different gauge or test/compare mine to another. It looks like its almost 10 psi high which would make it rich, I know I had to lower my fuel pressure in my duster with a fwd cal to get it closer to right but that has a wideband, and many more mods.
 
#7 ·
If the system is all stock and the fuel pressure is actually high.
1)Remove the fuel line from the FPR.
2)Attach a new line and place in a container approved for gasoline.
3)Start the engine and check fuel pressure.
4)If pressure is still high replace the FPR.
5)If pressure is no longer high repair the restriction in the fuel return system.

TESTING FUEL PRESSURE
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358339-checking-fuel-pressure-84-93-turbo.html
 
#8 ·
Haven't had a chance to test my fuel pressure gauge yet, will get there but I don't think that's my main issue anyway.
So last Sunday I took my car for a drive to canadain tire, when I was about to leave my driveway it just died, I started right back up and was on my way. The car ran good there and back home with no issues probably a 20km round trip.
Fast forward to today, Thursday the car had been sitting since Sunday so I decided to take it for a drive to keep the battery up because the alarm drains it if I leave it too long. So I started the car and let it idle for a few minutes before I left home, I maybe got a km down the road and it cuts out and tach drops just for a second, this is at about 50 kmph, 2000 rpm in 4 gear roughly, just cruising not under load. It cuts out a few more times down the road, then about 6 km into my trip I push in my clutch to slow down, and the rpms don't drop they stay at 2000 rpm. The engine wouldn't come back to idle, I continued on another few kms and it started to drop back to idle like normal.
Very odd things happening, still no codes besides 12,37,53, and 55.

When I got home I decide that I am going to reinstall the stock sbec, and clean all the engine grounds and install a FWD performance grounding kit I removed from my parts car. Any other ideas would be welcome :shrug:

This car is super clean and not cobbled up very stock minus the fmic, even using stock air box and bov
 
#9 ·
I know you replaced it but this still sounds like a HEP issue.
Start the car and perform a wiggle test on the HEP wiring and connectors.
Also check the shutter wheel in the distributor for looseness.
The only other thing that would create a tach problem along with cutting out.
 
#10 ·
I wiggled that to death now, I'll try another hep though and take a good look at the shutter wheel.

I figure best to run the stock sbec even if its not the problem until my issues are solved.

Thanks for the ideas :thumb:
 
#11 · (Edited)
Tach dropping just before the engine cuts is a classic sign of HEP problems.
Can happen, regularity, randomly or occasionally.
Replacement ones often have problems, so please listen to NAJ's advice !!

Thanks
Randy
 
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