Alternator Tests Good, But Not Charging?

[PUNKslip]

Update to old post; a while back I posted a problem with my computer, and or charging system. I heard a pop sound through my speakers, charge went to zero, etc....
I changed the Alt. but that was not the problem. Today, I changed my computer out with a Mopar unit from the dealer. New Alt. and computer, well over $300 spent, and a lot of down time, absolutely no change. I am not charging, and still am getting a lot of codes.
Any ideas. I took the battery back out and started to inspect the wires again.
Curious as to where I can look next.

John

[Shel-Game]

Did you check the fusible links? I think one of them goes to the alternator...

[PUNKslip]

Ya, just got back in from doing that, again. This seems to be an easy problem to fix, but I have been messing with this thing for three months. There has to be something that I have over looked, but I can't find it.

John

[william]

Check the voltage sensing wire to the computer, see if it is reading voltage. Is there voltage at the alternator? Voltage across the field wires?

[charger R/T]

Dude I just went back and re-read your old post. Are you still getting the same codes you were getting with the old computer with the new computer? If so you have some serious wiring issues like Simon stated in that post. You need the wiring diagrams and start checking all power feeds (12volt and 5 volt), and all grounds.
Tim

[PUNKslip]

This all started with a noise over my speakers, so need to assume a blown fuse or fusable. Do you know what is between the Alt. and Comp. that can blow, other that the fusables. I want to pull up my old posts and re-read them, but I don't know how. I thought about putting an older regulater in and getting my voltage up to par, then rechecking codes. Someone posted a how to about a reg., but I forgot what year of reg. to use, and exactly how to hook it up.

John

[bobr19]

Quote:

Originally Posted by PUNKslip This all started with a noise over my speakers, so need to assume a blown fuse or fusable. Do you know what is between the Alt. and Comp. that can blow, other that the fusables. I want to pull up my old posts and re-read them, but I don't know how. I thought about putting an older regulater in and getting my voltage up to par, then rechecking codes. Someone posted a how to about a reg., but I forgot what year of reg. to use, and exactly how to hook it up. click on your name PUNKslip--go to read public profile---click on all posts by this user--this will bring up your old posts---the older regulators came in cars at least to 84--I can get the wiring hook up if you go that route--PM me if you want it bobr19 John

above

[PUNKslip]

Thanks, I will pick up a reg. this week, and will stay in touch.

Thanks again, John

[charger R/T]

To view your old posts click quick view at the top of most pages them my posts.
Heres a link to your old post Alternator Tests Good, But Not Charging?
Reading your old thread you had a lot of codes that were open or shorted circuits. All were circuits from the 5 volt kind. I forget or it wasn't posted what year and model you have. There is a 91 diagnostics ( it says 91 on the thread but I think they are really 89) posted on this forum here is a link to the thread. 89 Turbo 1 Diagnostic Manual.. downloadable
Down load it and look near the end of it I think it was page 218 and 219 (page number in manuel not adobe reader) it has a charging system trouble shooting tree. In your first thread you said you were not getting and power on either field wires. The tree says to repair J-2 splice. It has a picture of it near the battery. Check it out.
Tim

[PUNKslip]

Alright, now that I have a dozen holes in the coating of all my fuseable links, I am still trying to figure out why I don't have any power to my field terminals.
It is a '90 Daytona 2.5 ES, new Alt. and Comp.
I am not showing any voltage on my cars volt meter.
I will send a $25.00 USPS money order to the first person that pegs the problem. Just a single suggestion please, and if anyone has a 90 Daytona, and knows what I should fix, please send me a photo.

I'm serious.
John.

[william]

Hey John,
When you say you have no voltage to your field terminals, are you measuring for voltage across them (one probe on each field)? I know you have probably done all of this, but these are the things I would check:
-You already have new (and presumably good) computer and alternator, although, I would be tempted to try the computer on another car to see if it charges. I have a box of faulty computers, some almost new, and almost invariably they all work great except the VR's. If you aren't 100% sure the computer works (new does not necessarily mean working) try and check it. A long shot yes, but the list of suspects is getting shorter. You could look at the alternator the same way, but I have probably seen 10 failed computers for every 1 failed alternator.
-Check for battery voltage at the alternator ouput
-Check for good alternator ground; no ground, no charge
-Check fuse link
-Check for voltage at the battery sense wire into computer (you will need a pin out diagram for this) it is probably red/wht tracer?
-Check for continuity between the field wires and the appropriate pins to the computer (you will need a pin out diagram for this also)
-Voltage across field terminals should be ~5-10V when running
-Consider installing an external VR, even temporarily. This is very easy, and often more reliable than the integrated units. I am going to post a how to for dummies on this later.
Again, I know that you have checked some if not all of these things. I just finished a long drawn out battle with my GLH charging system, and ended up adding an external VR. I did this on my GLH without altering the factory wiring, and the factory volt gauge still works. I just had to splice into 3 wires at the power module.
I am not an auto electric whiz, so I have missed something, chime in...

william

[PUNKslip]

Thanks William,
I have to go to work now, but tonight after work, I will check and check again.

John

[Stratman]

I have had a problem just like this and it had me lost for a while. The large wire that connects the alternator became broken due to pulling the motor in and out several times and leaning the alternator to the side with the wires still attached leading to the wire being slightly kinked. I heard it pop once, but it ended working OK at first. A few months later things were screwing up and every once in a while I would just loose power for a quick second. One night it completely broke, but it was hard to find due to the insulation not ripping when it happened.
Check the large wire on the back of the alternator for empty space or bad crimps by squeezing the insulation. Mine was a 1/4" or so from the terminal itself.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PUNKslip Thanks William, I have to go to work now, but tonight after work, I will check and check again. John

[85GLHTII]

If you end up going with an external voltage regulator, I drew up this diagram to help. The regulator case itself needs to be grounded.


Chad-
www.extremepsi.org