88 Aries, tbi to turbo harness?

[Mr_Mopar]

So, i picked up this 88 aries, 2 door 5 speed with 79,000 original kms. Its a 2.2 tbi, but in the near future this car will have a turbo motor dropped in. The engine harness disconnect is right at the firewall. Which harness would work with this application. I was thinking a 88 intercooled shelby daytona harness would work. Are these harnesses a direct bolt up. I know there will be some extra wires for flip lights, and other shit but i just want to get the main part all hooked up. Any one every do this and know which turbo harness to use????


Thanks

Corey

[t-topshelby]

Well that is something you will have to look at. Check the pins in the connectors. Ma Mopar has done wierder things in the past with using antthing on the shelf to get the cars out. I know for sure that carbuated to tbi yes, the harness has to be changed, but they might be the same between tbi and turbo.......oh hey don't forget that theres that computer in the passenger kick panel as well, so chances are more likely yes.

[Mr_Mopar]

i thought 88 was the first year for the single computer, never looked behind the kick panel but i asumed that there wouldnt be one there.

[ednutcracker]

88 is the first year of the smec, the reason you need a turbo harness is because tbi harness isnt prepared to fire the injectors and acept charge air sensor, wastgate solenoid, hall efect pickup has another plug and other things, you should look for the whole thing, you need the injector wiring harness, alternator sub harness if it dosnt come conected already to your turbo harness, it conects under dash..to the rest of the engine (watch the route of your current harness because you route it the same way, i used my tbi starter sub harness for my proyect)

[minigts]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_Mopar i thought 88 was the first year for the single computer, never looked behind the kick panel but i asumed that there wouldnt be one there.

I and "The S is Silent" are working on 2 separate projects to do a conversion using the 40 way connector with an 88 and up TII harness out of whatever car. I'll post the findings when I get mine completed. I haven't fired mine up yet, so I'm not posting anything till I get it running! I'll do what I can to have the info in the next couple of days.

[topdollar69]

Its alot easier to get an 88 E class turbo harness, then add the air charge temp sensor.

[Mr_Mopar]

sweet, but one question, "E" class refers to which vehicle?

[topdollar69]

Dodge 600, Chrysler New Yorker, Lebaron Sedan, and Plymouth Caravelle.

[Mr_Mopar]

awsome, now is time to hit the wreckers

[minigts]

Well here is what I came up with. It took me a while to figure it out, but I spoke with Mark from MF Wiring solutions and he set me straight. On the SMEC harnesses you have to pretty much cut the harness at the rubber boot that hits the firewall. If you don't you'll have the wires that run to the starter relay which is where I got TOTALLY confused.

Also, if you don't feel comfortable doing the splicing or cleaning it up, Mark will do full conversions with new loom and tape wrap for a pretty good price and very good work. Here is his site.


http://www.geocities.com/csx16v/

Good luck with it!

[dorquemada]

That's exactly what I had to do to make an '89 Shelby daytona wiring harness fit my '88 Reliant--cut the 40-way bulkhead connector off my old harness and solder it onto the new harness. The wiring wasn't 1:1 by color, either. You need the '88 factory electrical manual if you plan on doing this.

[cadmanspd]

You don't have to cut the harness! I did mine last year (89 TI Van donor to 89 Aries). You can easily diassemble the bulkhead connector and re-pin the Turbo engine controls to the same-color tbi pin-outs. I used the van harness, removed all the engine specific wires, went to the Aries harness, pulled out all the engine wires and left all the other body functions intact.
The connector is self explanitory once you have it apart and then there's no soldering. I use diagrams from both cars to match color for color and then re-pin using a "map" of which pin for which function goes where (once you start matching up wires you'll discover Chrysler was very consistent from body to body on wire colors) Took me 2 hours to diagram and then do it.
As a bonus the Dayton/Lebaron stuff is very close to Aries. Heck, even when I did the rear disc conversion everything was already set, nut bolts brackets and all to accept the disc parts, didn't even have to change the e-brake cables.
Car has been running for almost a year now with no trouble, runs low 13sec 1/4 mile now.

[minigts]

Well I don't know what pins they used, so it may be a direct swap. For the L bodies, you have to reterminate the pins because the L bodies use a male blade type terminal and the other Turbo II cars use female terminal ends. If the car is post 88 I'm sure you just need to re-pin the bulk connector. I've been reading so many threads that this attachment may not be applicable.

[cadmanspd]

Yes L bodies are a completely different program. K body stuff is really much easier 88 up.Those pins pop right out so easily you'd think they planned it that way. I got mine done and it fired on the first turn of the key ( boy was I pleasantly surprised).