Power door lock install

[ZoskalonMPI]

The power door locks on 90+ Daytonas are wired into the BCM, correct? The switch sends a signal to the computer and the computer sends the currect to the solenoid one way or the other, right? My problem here is, I got the power locks and windows from the yard for my 93 Daytona. Mine never came with power anything. Am I going to be able to wire in all of this into my current BCM, or would I actually need a 92+ BCM from a car that had power locks?

My other option was to stick two switches side by side and instead of having them send a signal to the computer, they would manually connect the current going one way or reverse. I would have power locks, but then I wouldn't be able to utilize them if I got a remote door unlock system, am I right?

And the power windows are just manually controlled, right? They just connect to the ignition feed and do not communicate with the computer or anything?

Can someone please help me out here? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you.

[ZoskalonMPI]

C'mon, someone has to know. Please?

[Vilpo]

Well, just an idea but could you use the same kind of relay that they used in Lebarons? I mean for the power door locks. In those it is not connected to any control module as far as i know.

[NAJ]

AG/AJ Body use the same BCM System.All door Lock Controls are thru the BCM.
You may want to check with an Alarm Dealer in your area,a lot of Alarm Systems use seperate Lock/Unlock Relays so the doors will Lock/Unlock with that Systems Remote Transmitter.They may be able to set you up with a Wiring Harness or provide you with Info to get you going in the right direction.

[charger R/T]

I can tell you how to wire up the locks without the BCM but it all depends on the switches. first the switches the switches need one terminal that is open in the switches rest position and when pressed needs to close to one terminal for unlock and a differant one for lock. Run a fused power source to the first wire low amp is fine all it will power is a relay. Get 2 bosch style relays. The terminals are marked on these relays so I will use the numbers to tell you what to hook things up to. hook a wire on each of the number 30 terminals. run these 2 wires to the door lock actuators two wires. terminal 87A of each relay gets a ground wire. Also ground terminal 85 of each relay. terminal 87 of both relays gets a fused 12v+ wire with a fuse heavy enough for the load. Now the 2 terminals numbered 86 hook the 2 wires from the switch that closes when you push the button one for lock and the other relay for close. Wiring in a alarm with open features should be no problem just hook up the remotes open wire to the 86 terminal of the relay that works when you unlock the car and if the remote can lock doors hook that wire to the 86 terminal of the relay that locks the doors. If you go looking for relays I found asking for a fuel pump relay for a 92 Ford Crown Vic gets you one of the cheapest relays out there.
Tim

[Vilpo]

NAJ, is is the same system for aa-body also? My data-disc says it shouldn't have a BCM.

[NAJ]

1990 Chrysler Wiring Diagram Manual shows that AA Body,LeBaron Landau,
Spirit and Acclaim do not use a BCM,these are 4 Dr Models but they do use a Power Door Interlock Module. Not sure what this is as they do not show an Internal Schematic.It is located behind the Top R/S of Dash all the way to the Right.

[charger R/T]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ 1990 Chrysler Wiring Diagram Manual shows that AA Body,LeBaron Landau, Spirit and Acclaim do not use a BCM,these are 4 Dr Models but they do use a Power Door Interlock Module. Not sure what this is as they do not show an Internal Schematic.It is located behind the Top R/S of Dash all the way to the Right.

could the Power Door Interlock Module be the niffty device that keeps idiots from using the power locks to lock the doors when the door is open and the key is still in the ignition?
Tim

[NAJ]

It is very possible,it may also house relays,I did not see any in the wiring schematic,it does not appear to be that big by the component locator,it sits on the R/S of the dash,appears to be above the glove box next to the power amplifier relay,speaker choke,fog lamp relay and chime module.

[Vilpo]

I wonder how can i access that powerlock module. Do i need to pull the whole dash off just to get to it or could the glove box be removed to access it? Today i was looking behind the glove box and theres a bunch of wires going up there but seems bit far to access from down there.

[NAJ]

According to service manual just remove glove box.

[ZoskalonMPI]

Quote:

Originally Posted by charger R/T I can tell you how to wire up the locks without the BCM but it all depends on the switches. first the switches the switches need one terminal that is open in the switches rest position and when pressed needs to close to one terminal for unlock and a differant one for lock. Run a fused power source to the first wire low amp is fine all it will power is a relay. Get 2 bosch style relays. The terminals are marked on these relays so I will use the numbers to tell you what to hook things up to. hook a wire on each of the number 30 terminals. run these 2 wires to the door lock actuators two wires. terminal 87A of each relay gets a ground wire. Also ground terminal 85 of each relay. terminal 87 of both relays gets a fused 12v+ wire with a fuse heavy enough for the load. Now the 2 terminals numbered 86 hook the 2 wires from the switch that closes when you push the button one for lock and the other relay for close. Wiring in a alarm with open features should be no problem just hook up the remotes open wire to the 86 terminal of the relay that works when you unlock the car and if the remote can lock doors hook that wire to the 86 terminal of the relay that locks the doors. If you go looking for relays I found asking for a fuel pump relay for a 92 Ford Crown Vic gets you one of the cheapest relays out there. Tim

My god man, thanks! The first time I read that I was like, wtf?, but while reading it a second time and actually holding one of the relays I have laying around in my hand, it made perfect sense. Relays are amazing.

Thanks again, thats exactly what I needed to know. I'll let you know later today how it turned out.

[charger R/T]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoskalonMPI My god man, thanks! The first time I read that I was like, wtf?, but while reading it a second time and actually holding one of the relays I have laying around in my hand, it made perfect sense. Relays are amazing. Thanks again, thats exactly what I needed to know. I'll let you know later today how it turned out.

It should work fine let me know if it don't I wrote it off the top of my head and didn't right a diagram.
Tim

[ZoskalonMPI]

Ok, I wired everything up outside the car, connected it to the battery, and it works flawlessly.

I just have one request, would anyone be able to suggest a way to put the wires through the rubber tube that connects the door to the car? Would just taking the speaker off and pushing the wires through be enough? Or how would I do this? Thanks in advance.

BTW, the power windows, I'm certain, would be wired exactly the same, except instead of constant power feed to the 87, I would put ignition feed, correct? Also, can you suggest a place to put these relays? I'm going to need to house 4 relays total for the locks and windows.

[crusty shadow]

most of the crysler door lock systems from the early 90's and before are all 5 wire door lock systems. this means that there were no relays in the system- the polarity is changed at the switch when you hit lock or unlock. the daytonas and a couple others had a bcm but it is basically just a relay pack to simplify wiring when assembling the car at the factory. also housed the keyless entry module on cars that were equiped with that option.

the power windows were set up the exact same way- ploarity was controlled by the switches, push up on the switch and polarity is one way, push down on same switch and polarity reverses at the switch causeing window to move other direction. you can set this up 2 ways- either use factory switches and wire up like the original power windows, ( or you can use aftermarket power window switches from a universal add on power window kit and just wire it up like their instructions say) or you can use any 2 position switch and 2 relays on each window- one for up and one for down.
id reccomend using factory style switches or aftermarket switches on the power windows cause it'll actually be a lil easier to set up versus wiring up 4 relays.
now if you want to hook up an aftermarket keyless entry system and dont care about having power lock switches , that'll make this upgrade that much easier cause most of them have the relays for door locks built right into the keyless module
heres an idea you might wanna consider

viper 211v keyless entry unit- costs about 75 bucks from and authorized viper dealer ( lifetime warranty on the brain) , relays built in does door locks, parking light flash, horn honk, trunk pop (if you have an electronic release) dome light supervision ( kicks dome light on for 60 sec after you hit unlock on remote or after you shut car off- very nice feature)
now add a viper 530t window control module to that- about 100 bucks
the 530t hooks up to any viper keyless or alarm unit- when you lock the doors it automatically rolls up the windows, and you can roll the windows down from the remote also- just a crack or all the way. heres the best part- the 530t also adds one-touch window operation, push and hold the power window switch up or down for one second and it rolls the window all the way up or down without having to hold your finger on the button the whole time
if your car has a power sunroof, you need a 529t to control that as the 530 wont control a power sunroof properly.
heres the tech info from dei on your car should you want to add an alarm or remote start
12volts





Starter yellow ignition harness
Second Starter
Ignition blue ignition harness
Second Ignition
Third Ignition
Accessory black/orange ignition harness
Second Accessory black/white ignition harness
Keysense
Power Lock orange/purple 5wi either kick panel
Power Unlock pink/purple 5wi either kick panel
Lock Motor
Unlock Motor
Parking Lights+ black/yellow driver door sill
Parking Lights-
Hazards
Turn Signal(L)
Turn Signal(R)
Reverse Light
Door Trigger yellow - driver door sill
Dome Supervision
Trunk/Hatch Pin yellow at pin switch
Hood Pin
Trunk/Hatch Release
Power Sliding Door
Factory Alarm Arm
Factory Alarm Disarm
Disarm No Unlock
Tachometer black/gray ignition coil
Wait to start
Brake Wire white/tan brake pedal switch
Parking Brake
Horn Trigger black/red - steering column

oh yeah almost forgot- easy way to run wires thru te door boot
the boot just snaps in to the door jamb and the door itselfpop the boot out of the jamb and out of the doorso the boot is hanging in the door jamb, you'll see that the both ends are taped shut- remove the tape and you'll be able to feed wires thru the boot and into the door. i like to use a large zip tie ( like the cops use in place of handcuffs) tape your wires to one ond of the zip tie or whatever you decide to use, feed it thru the boot and into the door, and pull your wires thru- doesnt get much easier than that.