|
Human Factory Service Manual
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Jersey
My Ride: 1990 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2 L VNT
1/4: 15.570
|
There is a Recall involving your vehicle,weather this is your problem I do not know.
I would need your vin to see if the Recall was completed.
If it has not been completed it is a fire hazard and needs to be done,It Is Free.
NOTE: BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS RECALL, REVIEW VIP OR VEHICLE HISTORY TAB TO VERIFY THAT THE RECALL APPLIES TO THIS VEHICLE AND HAS NOT BEEN COMPLETED.
June 2000
Dealer Service Instructions for:
Safety Recall No. 875
Ignition Switch Wiring
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Models
1994-1996
(BR)
Dodge Ram Trucks
NOTE: This recall applies only to the above vehicles built at the:
Warren Assembly Plant ("S" in the 11th VIN position) through April 4, 1996 (MDH 0404XX);
St. Louis North Assembly Plant ("J" in the 11th VIN position) through March 23, 1996 (MDH 0323XX);
Lago Alberto Assembly Plant ("M" in the 11th VIN position) through April 14, 1996 (MDH 0414XX); or
Saltillo Assembly Plant ("G" in the 11th VIN position) through April 14, 1996 (MDH 0414XX).
IMPORTANT: Some of the involved vehicles may be in dealer used vehicle inventory. Dealers should complete this recall service on these vehicles before retail delivery. Dealers should also perform this recall on vehicles in for service. Involved vehicles can be determined by using the DIAL VIP System.
Subject
The ignition switch and/or steering column wiring on about 710,000 of the above vehicles may overheat when the blower motor is operated at high speed for an extended period of time. This can cause stalling, loss of blower motor or power window operation, ABS or airbag lamp illumination or a steering column/instrument panel fire.
Repair
A blower motor relay and overlay harness must be installed to remove the blower motor circuit from the ignition switch. In addition, the ignition switch and electrical connector must be inspected for damage and replaced if necessary.
Parts Information
Ignition Switch Wiring Package
Part Number
Description
CBXR8750
Ignition Switch Wiring Package
Each package contains the following components:
Quantity
Description
1
Blower Motor Relay and Overlay Harness
1
Ignition Switch Wiring Pigtail
1
Key Cylinder Retaining Bracket
1
Retaining Bracket Screw
1
Ignition Switch Screw
1
Washer
1
Wiring Clip
3
Push Clips
8
Heat Shrink Tubing
10
Tie Straps
Each dealer to whom vehicles in the recall were invoiced (or the current dealer at the same street address) will receive enough Ignition Switch Wiring Packages to service about 10% of those vehicles.
Ignition Switch Assembly
Part Number
Description
04326622
Ignition Switch Assembly
Each dealer to whom vehicles in the recall were invoiced (or the current dealer at the same street address) will receive two (2) ignition switch assemblies.
Additional ignition switches should be ordered only after inspection determines that replacement is required. Very few vehicles are expected to require ignition switch replacement.
Service Procedure
Inspect for Blower Motor Relay:
NOTE: Very few vehicles are expected to already be equipped with a blower motor relay.
Inspect the brake pedal support bracket for the presence of a blower motor relay attached to the brake lamp switch bracket (Figure 1) or locate a blower motor relay that is secured near the brake pedal bracket with a tie strap.
NOTE: 1995 model year vehicles that were built with original equipment foglamps will have two (2) foglamp relays mounted on this bracket.
If a blower motor relay is NOT found, inspect the area near the 84-way bulkhead connector for a WHITE single wire connector with BLACK ends that connects two PINK with BLACK tracer wires (Figure 2). If the connector and wires are present, follow the wiring harness to locate the blower motor relay that is secured under the instrument panel.
If a relay was located in either Step 1 or Step 2, verify that this is a blower motor relay as follows:
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Turn the blower motor on LOW and verify that the blower is operating.
Disconnect the relay.
Ø If the blower motor stops, this relay is for the blower motor.
Ø If the blower motor does not stop, this relay is NOT for the blower motor.
Turn the ignition switch OFF and connect the relay.
ØIf a blower motor relay is NOT present, continue with Section "B – Inspect Ignition Switch and Wiring."
ØIf a blower motor relay is present, no further action is necessary. Return the vehicle to the customer.
Inspect Ignition Switch and Wiring:
Disconnect the negative battery cable(s).
NOTE: To enhance customer satisfaction, remember to record all radio settings before disconnecting the battery and to reset all electronic memory (clock, radio settings, etc.) when you have completed the service procedure.
Remove the five (5) screws that secure the knee blocker to the lower instrument panel and then remove the knee blocker (Figure 3).
Remove the steering column tilt lever by turning it counter-clockwise.
Remove the upper and lower steering column covers (Figure 4).
Remove the lower steering column shroud (Figure 4).
Disconnect the 7-way ignition switch electrical connector (Figure 5).
Inspect the 7-way ignition switch connector for heat damage near the 4th and 5th terminals (BLACK with ORANGE tracer and PINK with BLACK tracer wires) (Figure 5).
ØLook for brown or black discoloration of the wire insulation or melting of the wire insulation near the connector.
ØCheck the wiring terminals for discoloration.
Ø(Inspect the connector for indications of melting or deformation.
Inspect the ignition switch assembly for heat damage near the 4th and 5th terminals (Figure 6).
ØCheck the ignition switch terminals for discoloration.
ØInspect the ignition switch connector and body for indications of melting or deformation.
ØIf the wiring connector and switch assembly are NOT damaged, continue with Section "E – Install Blower Motor Relay and Overlay Harness."
ØIf the 7-way switch wiring connector has indications of heat damage, the ignition switch wiring harness pigtail must be replaced. Continue with Section "C – Replace Ignition Switch Wiring Pigtail."
ØIf the ignition switch assembly has indications of heat damage, the ignition switch assembly and the wiring harness pigtail must be replaced. Continue with Section "C – Replace Ignition Switch Wiring Pigtail."
Replace Ignition Switch Wiring Pigtail:
IMPORTANT: Only those vehicles that had wiring and/or ignition switch damage as determined by the inspection in Section "B" require ignition switch wiring pigtail replacement. Very few vehicles are expected to require this repair.
Disconnect the ignition switch key-in/halo light electrical connector (Figure 7).
Disconnect the clockspring electrical connector from the clockspring (Figure 7).
Disconnect the multi-function switch electrical connector (Figure 7).
Remove the plastic steering column wiring trough from the steering column. The trough is attached to the column with three push clips.
Remove the ignition switch wires from the wiring trough. Remove any tape from the ignition switch wires.
Stagger cut all of the ignition switch wires (7) on the vehicle harness side about ½" apart. Make sure that all wires are cut so that the wire splices will be located inside the wiring trough and towards the bottom of the steering column.
NOTE: Splices that are located towards the top of the steering column are more susceptible to damage.
Strip about 1" of wire insulation from each wire on the vehicle wire harness.
Stagger cut the matching wires on the supplied ignition switch pigtail to match up with the harness side. Allow sufficient length for the soldered connections. Make sure that the overall length of the wiring is the same as the original harness.
NOTE: Be sure to cut the supplied ignition switch pigtail wires so that they match the wire color of the vehicle wire harness. On some vehicles, the YELLOW harness wire matches with the BLUE/YELLOW* vehicle wire and the BLACK harness wire matches with the GRAY/BLACK* vehicle wire.
Strip about 1" of wire insulation from each wire on the ignition switch pigtail.
Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing onto each wire of the new pigtail.
Connect the supplied switch pigtail harness to the vehicle harness by twisting all wire ends together. Be sure to match all wire colors.
Solder the twisted wire ends using rosin core solder.
CAUTION: Wire splices must be soldered. Do NOT use solderless connectors.
Center the pieces of heat shrink tubing over each of the splices. Heat the tubing with a heat source until sealant comes out each end of the tubing.
Connect the multi-function switch electrical connector (Figure 7).
Connect the clockspring electrical connector (Figure 7).
ØIf the ignition switch was damaged and must be replaced, as determined by the inspection in Section "B," continue with Section "D -- Replace Ignition Switch Assembly."
ØIf the ignition switch was NOT damaged, as determined by the inspection in Section "B," continue with Section "E – Install Blower Motor Relay and Overlay Harness."
Replace Ignition Switch Assembly:
IMPORTANT: Only those vehicles that had ignition switch damage as determined by the inspection in Section "B," require ignition switch replacement. Very few vehicles are expected to require this repair.
Remove the ignition switch mounting screws (Figure 8). Use a tamper-proof torx bit (Snap-on PN TTXR20A2 or equivalent) to remove the screws.
Remove the ignition switch from the steering column.
Insert the ignition key into the key cylinder and turn the key to the LOCK position.
Depress the key cylinder retaining pin or, if equipped, use the tamper-proof torx bit to remove the key cylinder retaining screw and bracket (Figure 9).
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. The key cylinder will then unseat from the ignition switch. When the key cylinder is unseated, it will be approximately 1/8" away from the ignition switch halo light ring. Do NOT attempt to remove the key cylinder at this time.
With the key cylinder unseated, turn the ignition key to the LOCK position and then remove the key.
Remove the key cylinder from the ignition switch (Figure 10).
Place the new ignition switch in the LOCK position. The switch is in the LOCK position when the column lock flag is parallel to the ignition switch terminals (Figure 11).
With the key cylinder in the LOCK position, insert the key cylinder into the new ignition switch until it bottoms.
Insert the ignition key into the key cylinder. While gently pushing the key cylinder in toward the ignition switch, rotate the ignition key clockwise to the end of travel (START position) and then back to the LOCK position.
If equipped, install the key cylinder retaining bracket and screw (Figure 9). Tighten the screw to 26 in-lbs (3 N×m).
Apply a light coating of grease to the ignition switch column lock flag and the park lock dowel pin (Figure 11).
Make sure that the transmission gear shift selector is in the PARK position. The park lock dowel pin must be properly indexed before installing the ignition switch (Figure 12).
Place the ignition switch against the lock housing opening on the steering column. Ensure that the ignition switch park lock dowel pin enters the slot in the park lock slider linkage in the steering column.
Install the ignition switch screws (Figure 8). Tighten the screws to 26 in-lbs (3 N×m).
Connect the key-in/halo light electrical connector to the new ignition switch (Figure 7).
NOTE: Do NOT connect the 7-way ignition switch connector.
Install Blower Motor Relay and Overlay Harness:
Remove the 30-amp fuse from the fuseblock F2 -- Blower Motor location (Figure 13).
Remove the TAN wedge from the fuseblock (Figure 13).
Remove the BLACK with ORANGE tracer (A22) wire from cavity 11 of the fuseblock (Figure 13); then cut the terminal off and tape the wire back to the harness.
Remove the DARK GREEN (C1) wire from cavity 12 of the fuseblock (Figure 13).
Disconnect the 84-way bulkhead connector.
Remove the cover from the rear of the 84-way connector.
Remove the BLUE wedge from the 84-way connector.
Remove the PINK with BLACK tracer (A2) wire from cavity 43 of the 84-way bulkhead connector (Figure 14).
Remove the RED wedge from the 7-way ignition switch connector (Figure 15).
Remove the BLACK with ORANGE tracer (A22) wire from cavity 5 of the 7-way ignition switch connector (Figure 15). Then, remove the wire from the wiring takeout bundle back to the base of the steering column.
Install the supplied blower relay wiring harness so that the X-wrap is located near the base of the steering column (Figure 16). Secure the harness with a tie strap.
Install the PINK with BLACK tracer blower relay harness wire (with a blade terminal) into cavity 43 of the 84-way connector (Figure 14 and Figure 16).
Install the BLUE wedge into the 84-way connector.
Install the cover onto the rear of the 84-way connector.
Connect the 84-way bulkhead connector.
Disconnect the WHITE electrical connector on the blower relay harness. Install the PINK with BLACK tracer wire that was removed from the 84-way connector into the WHITE connector opening (Figure 16). Reconnect the WHITE connector. Secure the connector near the bulkhead connector with a tie strap.
Install the BLACK with ORANGE tracer blower relay harness wire into cavity 5 of the 7-way ignition switch connector (Figure 16).
Disconnect the BLACK 2-way electrical connector on the blower relay harness (Figure 16). Remove the BLUE wedge and then install the BLACK with ORANGE tracer wire that was removed from the ignition switch connector into cavity 2 of the BLACK connector. Install the wedge and reconnect the BLACK 2-way connector. Secure the connector and any excess wiring near the base of the steering column with a tie strap.
Cut off the terminal and then strip about 1" of wire insulation from the end of the DARK GREEN wire that was removed from the fuseblock earlier.
Strip about 1" of wire insulation from the end of the DARK GREEN with WHITE blower relay harness wire (Figure 16).
Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing onto the wire.
Connect the DARK GREEN and DARK GREEN with WHITE tracer wires by twisting the wire ends together.
Solder the twisted wire ends using rosin core solder.
CAUTION: Wire splice must be soldered. Do NOT use a solderless connector.
Center the piece of heat shrink tubing over the splice. Heat the tubing with a heat source until sealant comes out each end of the tubing.
Install the DARK GREEN blower relay harness wire into cavity 12 of the fuseblock (Figure 16).
Install the PINK with BLACK tracer blower relay harness wire into cavity 11 of the fuseblock (Figure 16).
Install the TAN fuseblock wedge (Figure 13).
Reinstall the 30-amp fuse in the fuseblock F2 – Blower Motor location (Figure 13).
Disconnect the ground eyelet near the airbag squib connector (Figure 17).
Double stack the ground eyelet on the BLACK blower relay harness wire onto the ground screw. Install the ground screw and tighten securely.
Attach the blower relay onto one of the horizontal relay mounting tabs on the bracket located on the brake pedal support just above the brake lamp switch and pedal (Figure 18).
NOTE: For early 1994 model year vehicles that do not have a relay bracket or if two relays are already attached to the bracket, secure the relay to the wiring harness with a tie strap.
Re-tape all of the portions of the ignition switch wiring harness from which tape was removed.
Position the ignition switch wires back inside of the wiring trough.
Snap the steering column wiring trough back on to the steering column using the supplied clips as necessary.
Connect the 7-way ignition switch electrical connector.
Install the lower steering column shroud (Figure 4).
Install the upper and lower steering column covers (Figure 4).
Install the steering column tilt lever (Figure 4).
Install the knee blocker and tighten the screws securely (Figure 3).
Connect the negative battery cable(s).
Verify that the blower motor operates properly.
Completion Reporting and Reimbursement
Claims for vehicles that have been serviced must be submitted on the DIAL System. Claims submitted will be used by DaimlerChrysler to record recall service completions and provide dealer payments.
Use one of the following labor operation numbers and time allowances:
Labor Op. No.
Description
Time
08875181
Inspect for blower motor relay
0.2 hours
08875182
Install blower relay/overlay harness
0.7 hours
08875183
Install blower relay/overlay harness and replace the ignition switch wiring pigtail
1.2 hours
08875184
Install blower relay/overlay harness, replace the ignition switch wiring pigtail and the ignition switch assembly
1.4 hours
CHARGING SYSTEM
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, battery potential will register on the voltmeter. During engine cranking a lower voltage will appear on the meter. With the engine running, a voltage reading higher than the first reading (ignition in ON) should register.
The following procedures may be used to diagnose the charging system if:
the voltmeter does not operate properly
an undercharged or overcharged battery condition occurs.
Remember that an undercharged battery is often caused by:
accessories being left on with the engine not running
a faulty or improperly adjusted switch that allows a lamp to stay on. See Ignition-Off Draw Test in Group 8A, Battery for more information.
INSPECTION
Inspect condition of battery cable terminals, battery posts, connections at engine block, starter solenoid and relay. They should be clean and tight. Repair as required.
Inspect all fuses in the fuseblock module and Power Distribution Center (PDC) for tightness in receptacles. They should be properly installed and tight. Repair or replace as required.
Inspect the electrolyte level in the battery. Replace battery if electrolyte level is low.
Inspect generator mounting bolts for tightness. Replace or tighten bolts if required. Refer to the Generator Removal/Installation section of this group for torque specifications.
Inspect generator drive belt condition and tension. Tighten or replace belt as required. Refer to Belt Tension Specifications in Group 7, Cooling System.
Inspect automatic belt tensioner (if equipped) Refer toCooling System for information.
Inspect connections at generator field, battery output, and ground terminals. Also check ground connection at engine. They should all be clean and tight. Repair as required.
CHARGING SYSTEM RESISTANCE TESTS
These tests will show the amount of voltage drop across the generator output wire, from the generator output (B+) terminal Generator Terminals to the battery positive post. They will also show the amount of voltage drop from the ground (-) terminal on the generator Generator Terminals to the battery negative post
A voltmeter with a 0 - 18 volt DC scale should be used for these tests. By repositioning the voltmeter test leads, the point of high resistance (voltage drop) can easily be found.
PREPARATION
Before starting test, make sure battery is in good condition and is fully-charged. See Group 8A, Battery for more information.
Check condition of battery cables at battery. Clean if necessary.
Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
Shut engine off.
Connect an engine tachometer.
Fully engage the parking brake.
TEST
Start engine.
Place heater blower in high position.
Turn on headlamps and place in high-beam position.
Turn vehicle interior lamps on.
Start engine. Bring engine speed up to 2400 rpm and hold.
Testing (+) circuitry:
Touch the negative lead of voltmeter directly to battery positive post.
Touch the positive lead of voltmeter to the B+ output terminal stud on the generator (not the terminal mounting nut) Voltage should be no higher than 0.6 volts. If voltage is higher than 0.6 volts, touch test lead to terminal mounting stud nut and then to the wiring connector. If voltage is now below 0.6 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connection at this point. Also check condition of the generator output wire-to-battery bullet connector. Refer toWiring for connector location. A voltage drop test may be performed at each (+) connection in this circuit to locate the excessive resistance.
Testing (-) circuitry:
Touch the negative lead of voltmeter directly to battery negative post.
Touch the positive lead of voltmeter to the ground terminal stud on the generator case (not the terminal mounting nut) Voltage should be no higher than 0.3 volts. If voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, touch test lead to terminal mounting stud nut and then to the wiring connector. If voltage is now below 0.3 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connection at this point. A voltage drop test may be performed at each (-) connection in this circuit to locate the excessive resistance. This test can also be performed between the generator case and the engine. If test voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, check for corrosion at generator mounting points or loose generator mounting.
CURRENT OUTPUT TEST
The current output test will determine if the charging system can deliver its minimum test current (amperage) output. Refer to the Specifications section at the end of this group for minimum test current (amperage) requirements.
The first part of this test (Test 1) will determine the combined amperage output of both the generator and the Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) circuitry. The second part of this test (Test 2) will determine only generator amperage and will not include analysis of EVR circuitry. EVR circuitry is located within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) To test voltage regulator circuitry, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service manual.
PREPARATION
Determine if any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) exist. To determine a DTC, refer to On-Board Diagnostics in this group. For repair, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual.
Before starting test, make sure battery is in good condition and is fully-charged. See Group 8A, Battery for more information.
Check condition of battery cables at battery. Clean if necessary.
Perform the previous Output Wire Resistance Test (voltage drop test) This will ensure clean and tight generator/battery electrical connections.
Be sure the generator drive belt is properly tensioned. Refer toCooling System for information.
A volt/amp tester equipped with both a battery load control (carbon pile rheostat) and an inductive-type pickup clamp (ammeter probe) will be used for this test. Refer to operating instructions supplied with tester. When using a tester equipped with an inductive-type clamp, removal of wiring at the generator will not be necessary.
Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature.
Shut engine off.
Turn off all electrical accessories and all vehicle lighting.
Connect the volt/amp tester leads to the battery. Be sure the carbon pile rheostat control is in the OPEN or OFF position before connecting leads. See Load Test in Group 8A, Battery for more information. Also refer to the operating instructions supplied with test equipment.
Connect the inductive clamp (ammeter probe) Refer to the operating instructions supplied with test equipment.
If volt/amp tester is not equipped with an engine tachometer, connect a separate tachometer to the engine.
TEST 1
Perform the previous test Preparation.
Fully engage the parking brake.
Start engine.
Bring engine speed to 2500 rpm.
With engine speed held at 2500 rpm, slowly adjust the rheostat control (load) on the tester to obtain the highest amperage reading. Do not allow voltage to drop below 12 volts. Record the reading. This load test must be performed within 15 seconds to prevent damage to test equipment. On certain brands of test equipment, this load will be applied automatically. Refer to the operating manual supplied with test equipment.
The ammeter reading must meet the Minimum Test Amps specifications as displayed in the Generator Ratings chart. This can be found in the Specifications section at the end of this group. A label stating a part reference number is attached to the generator case. On some engines this label may be located on the bottom of the case. Compare this reference number to the Generator Ratings chart.
Rotate the load control to the OFF position.
Continue holding engine speed at 2500. If EVR circuitry is OK, amperage should drop below 15 - 20 amps. With all electrical accessories and vehicle lighting off, this could take several minutes of engine operation. If amperage did not drop, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual for testing.
Remove volt/amp tester.
If minimum amperage could not be met, proceed to Test 2. This test will determine if the generator is faulty, or if EVR circuitry is defective.
TEST 2
Perform the previous test preparation.
Fully engage the parking brake.
Connect one end of a jumper wire to a good ground. Connect the other end of jumper wire to the (-) field control circuit terminal. This terminal is located on the back of the generator Generator Terminals Connecting the jumper wire will remove the voltage regulator circuitry from the test. It will also generate a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
CAUTION: Do not connect the jumper wire to the (+) ASD Relay output terminal Generator Terminals Damage to electrical system components may result. The (-) field control circuit terminal is located farther away from the B+ output terminal than the (+) ASD Relay terminal Generator Terminals
Start engine. Immediately after starting, reduce engine speed to idle. This will prevent any electrical accessory damage from high voltage.
Adjust carbon pile rheostat (load) and engine speed in slow increments until a speed of 1250 rpm, and a voltmeter reading of 15 volts is obtained. Immediately record ammeter reading. Do not apply load to system longer than 15 seconds as damage to test equipment may result
CAUTION: When adjusting rheostat load, do not allow voltage to rise above 16 volts. Damage to the battery and electrical system components may result.
The ammeter reading must meet the Minimum Test Amps specifications as displayed in the Generator Ratings chart. This can be found in the Specifications section at the end of this group. A label stating a part reference number is attached to the generator case. On some engines this label may be located on the bottom of the case. Compare this reference number to the Generator Rating chart.
Remove volt/amp tester.
Remove jumper wire.
Use the DRB scan tool to erase the DTC. Refer to the DRB screen for procedures.
RESULTS
If amp reading meets specifications in Test 2, generator is OK.
If amp reading is less than specified in Test 2, and wire resistance (voltage drop) tests were OK, the generator should be replaced. Refer to Removal and Installation in this group for procedures.
If Test 2 results were OK, but Test 1 results were not, the problem is in EVR circuitry. Refer to appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual for diagnosis.
|