3bar map plug and play? or no?

[crazymadbastard]

yeah that is the baro, my guess is that the map is not good, why is it reading so high? the computer is seeing full boost when it really isn't- are you getting lots of smoke?
If you follow the link I gave you it should read .5 volts at 20hg of idle and 1.60ish at atmosphere- hose off. I can only guess the map is no good since the voltage it is receiving is right. Try a known good map- was the one you bought known good from a good seller?

[TurboDoctah]

theres no check valve between the map and bap.. should there be one?

[crazymadbastard]

no check valve, the barometric solenoid vents the map to the atmosphere to check on the ambient pressure. I still cannot think of a reason the map is sending high readings, only thing I can conlude is a bad map.

[TurboDoctah]

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard no check valve, the barometric solenoid vents the map to the atmosphere to check on the ambient pressure. I still cannot think of a reason the map is sending high readings, only thing I can conlude is a bad map.

im about to throw the car in the crusher.. everythings new on it.. i just got the car for 2500 just spent over a grand in diag and a new head installed.. im gonna be a poor man for atleast 8 weeks i throw every cent i make into paying off the bill... its almost not worth it.

[crazymadbastard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboDoctah im about to throw the car in the crusher.. everythings new on it.. i just got the car for 2500 just spent over a grand in diag and a new head installed.. im gonna be a poor man for atleast 8 weeks i throw every cent i make into paying off the bill... its almost not worth it.

what does that have to do with the map? Comon man, BREATHE!!! it's not you, its the stupid map. Don't take it personally.
It is a project, kinda like a kid, jus cause it's acting up doesn't mean you put it up for adoption.

My car goes out on long vacations when something needs upgrading or breaks.

[TurboDoctah]

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard what does that have to do with the map? Comon man, BREATHE!!! it's not you, its the stupid map. Don't take it personally. It is a project, kinda like a kid, jus cause it's acting up doesn't mean you put it up for adoption. My car goes out on long vacations when something needs upgrading or breaks.

yeah i know man, but my tags expired on it before i could even get it running half way decent.. my dayly driver needs a tranny and its gonna give up any day now so im screwed if i cant get this one running andd get it to pass the sniffer test.. i put in a "known good 3bar map" and the 2bar looks brand new.. im thinking right now that the vacuume lines are alll wrong, just found out that the afpr wasnt seeing vacuume at all.. and my bov aint venting... maybe the lack of vac to the afpr causeing the car to not rev... who knows.

[crazymadbastard]

rip off all the vacuum lines and start fresh - look for the vacuum manifold sticky on running the bare essentials. Still though, your map should not be sending a 4.9v signal at atmosphere.

[TurboDoctah]

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard rip off all the vacuum lines and start fresh - look for the vacuum manifold sticky on running the bare essentials. Still though, your map should not be sending a 4.9v signal at atmosphere.

ok so i guess i can try to charge another map to my bill... if i can find one.

[crazymadbastard]

here is a good reference:

Installing a Vacuum Block

basically rip all the lines off, get a vacuum block and run straight lines to the fpr, baro(which also feeds map) bov and wastegate control(grainger) then worry about the cruise and carbon canister running. Just as long as you only have a sniff test to pass that is.

So I get this right, you are seeing 4.9ish volts at both pins A and B when the ignition is on and are grounding the other probe? gotta be the map.

[TurboDoctah]

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard here is a good reference: Installing a Vacuum Block basically rip all the lines off, get a vacuum block and run straight lines to the fpr, baro(which also feeds map) bov and wastegate control(grainger) then worry about the cruise and carbon canister running. Just as long as you only have a sniff test to pass that is. So I get this right, you are seeing 4.9ish volts at both pins A and B when the ignition is on and are grounding the other probe? gotta be the map.

i didnt ground anything i just used the black ground wire for teh map to get my volt readings.

[crazymadbastard]

I think you have a tbi - 1 bar map. see:

Quote:

Originally Posted by iTurbo The TBI MAP sensor (1-bar) works in the same voltage range as a turbo MAP sensor (2-bar). You are going to have to use whatever MAP sensor the SMEC you are using is programmed for. This is because the computer is programmed for use with a particular MAP sensor. Even though 1, 2, and 3 bar MAP sensors all work in the 0-5V range, they all output different voltages based on what the pressure the sensor is seeing, because the resolution for the sensors is different. For example, at 0' vac/pressure, a 1-bar MAP sensor will output almost 5 volts. A 2-bar MAP will output about 2.5 volts. A 3-bar MAP would output about 1.25 volts. Since the computer uses this voltage to know what the pressure in the intake manifold is, using the wrong MAP sensor will give the computer the wrong info and make the car run very rich, lean, or not at all.

I think there was a guy selling FAKE 3bar maps on here a while ago.

[TurboDoctah]

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard I think you have a tbi - 1 bar map. see: I think there was a guy selling FAKE 3bar maps on here a while ago.

hmmm well the 3bar i got from the owner of the shop i work at. the stocker somewhat works i guess.. i put a stockish ecu in and turned the boost up and it hit fuel cut at 15psi give or take. errr thats with the stock map