90 Daytona Stereo + Sub hookup issue

[Security_Randy]

I looked through threads and couldn't find anything. Sorry if this is a repeat. I found a few threads on older Daytona's but the colors didn't match.
I am trying to put in an Amp and Sub in my 1990 Daytona, using the stock stereo. I can't seem to figure out which wire is the Remote power or accessory power. I was hoping It has a remote power, so I didn't have to put in a new separate toggle switch just for the amp. Does anyone by chance know what color it is if I have one?
Sincerely; wishing I had wiring color codes.

[scorpion1]

TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more! - Dodge Factory Audio & Video Wire Colors

[Security_Randy]

Some are close but there is no match.
There are 2 multi wire connectors, we will call plugs. There is also a single wire all by its self from the harness, that seems to not have a place to go on the stereo. It looks like it would be to the cigarette lighter but of course thats nowhere near the stereo! And if I recall, it is black wire in black hard plastic female disconnect style. The first color is the base color the second color is the stripe.
Plug 1
Pink
Red/Black
Orange/White
Black/Yellow
Blue/Red
Brown/Red

Plug 2
Blue/Red
Brown/Blue
Purple
Green
Blue/White
Brown/Yellow
Green/Red
Now granted some of them I can guess. if they go in the order they are listed in the sheet... Opinions anyone? LOL

[Security_Randy]

OK for an update; Pink = power, Red/Black = Switched, Black/Yellow = Ground, Orange/White receives power when dash lights are turned on. I don't know if that makes it Dimmer or Illumination. Now Both Blue/Red and Brown/Red have partial power (less than 13.8 V) (approximately 6V) only when radio is on so one of them should work for my Amp power lead. What do you guys think?

[Oklahoma Wolf]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Security_Randy I am trying to put in an Amp and Sub in my 1990 Daytona, using the stock stereo. I can't seem to figure out which wire is the Remote power or accessory power.

Power antenna feed - it's the pin on the black connector furthest from the notch.

If you have Infinity in the car, you can save some time and wiring headaches by tapping any red wire (on the speaker side of the harness) on any of the door or rear speakers. These wires are the 12V feeds for the onboard amps and will be on anytime the Infinity/antenna relay is on. That's how my sub amp turns on anyway - i just ran a wire to one of the Infinitys in my New Yorker's rear deck

[crusty shadow]

no neither one of those will work for an amp turn on. you are reding dc voltage out of the radios speaker level outputs. your amp needs to see 10 volts min to turn on. 6 wont work and you'll fry the outputs out of your deck. seen this happen many times when customers would try to wire up an amp by themselves.
search under my name for the topic radio wiring color codes. i have listed everything you need to know right there.
when you're running the power wire to the battery DO NOT run it thru the door jamb- it looks totally ghetto and will short out. take a razor blade and make a small slit in the grommet where the main harness goes thru the firewall above the brake pedal. seal it with silicone when youre done.
make sure you have your main fuse holder for the power wire within 18 inches of the battery, otherwise you are creating a potential fire hazzard.
dont use too small of a wire for main power- you'll starve your amp for power and can fry it when you're pounding it hard.
general rule of thumb for wire size
up to 300 watts RMS- 10 gauge wire
over 300 to 500 watts RMS 8 gauge wire
over 500 to 1000 watts RMS 4 gauge wire
over 1000 watts RMS 1/0 gauge wire
you must use the same size ground wire as power wire- what goes in must come out.
ground the wire under the seat but NOT on top of the fuel tank. pull the seat cushion out(you'll have to to run power and rca's anyway) , look under the car look on top , look under the car again- look twice drill once, besides i see WAY too many people punch holes in gas tanks cause they didnt look where they were grounding the wire.
do not use any existing bolts, like the shock tower, seat belt bolts etc to attach wire. take sandpaper , or even a screwdriver and scrape off all the paint. make sure the ground is nice and tight- if you can move the ring terminal or the screw you're using spins when you're trying to tighten it, you need to use a fatter screw or more than one to hold it in place. after your ground is nice and tight, take some spray paint and give a quick squirt of paint where you scraped the paint away on top, and a squit from below where your screw penetrated the sheetmetal to prevent corrosion.

although you are hooking up to the stock deck, id reccomend hooking up the line out converter behind the radio, and getting your remote turn on from there as well. if your factory deck ever goes out and you replace it with an aftermarket unit it'll save you the trouble of having to run RCA's from back to the deck. also, the remote turn on wire for the amp- use an inline fuse holder, no more than 12 inches away from where you tapped into power and use a 2 or 3 amp fuse. if the remote wire should ever short out it will blow that fuse instead of burning out the remote turn on out of the deck or blowing the accy fuse if you use that wire instead.

run power wire and RCA's down the opposite sides of the car- power wire down drivers side and RCA's down the passenger side. otherwise you will induce noise into the system - alternator whine. it will also prevent it from radiating noise into the rest of the system if your car is equipped with the infinity system.

i have over 10 years of professional experience in car audio, been MECP advanced certified since 98. those are golden rules that everyone should follow- pretty basic stuff really but it does make a difference in how well things perform and will keep you from having problems later

couple other tips for you
set your low pass crossover on the amp to around 75 Hz. sub-bass stops at 85 Hz, but the crossover will not be a super sharp cut off. will help it to blend nicely into the rest of the system.

when setting the gain, turn gain all the way down. turn the volume on the deck up until you hear distortion and back off slightly. now set your gain with the volume at this level. otherwise if you set it with the volume low it will pound too hard at low volume, and when you turn up the deck to the point where you are getting small ammounts of distortion out of your full range speakers, your amp will just magnify the distortion and send that too your subs, making them sound sloppy and dramatically shortening their life as well as the life of the amp.

you may want to buy a set of bass blockers for your full range speakers. buy some that have a high pass of 100 hz- you'll be able to turn everything up louder with less distortion- full range speakers dont reproduce sub bass very well at all, and making them try to do somthing they dont do very well will just kill them off faster and sound bad in the process.

let me know if you have any other questions.