1983 d150 alternator help

[icedogs66]

Need help had no charge replace the alt. and regulator worked fine for a couple of hours then the alternator started putting out 60 volts at the back stud it should only be around 14 what could possibly be the problem

[charger R/T]

Check the battery wire from the alternator back to battery most vehicles have a fuse link near the battery sounds like it burned. High voltage at the back of the alternator and it not getting back is the clue. With the engine off that stud should read battery voltage I bet yours reads 0 volts
Tim

[daytonav691]

sounds like a faulty regulator.

What was the original alternator replaced for?

Was it bench tested to see if it was working properly and you didn't have a regulator problem?

I'm not sure on the older ones, but I know the newer ones had the regulator built into the alternator

[icedogs66]

thanks i will give these a try but without the wire that runs back to the battery I get 60 volts off the back stud on the alternator it fried the wire that goes to the battery

[NAJ]

D150?
225 6 cyl or 318 V-8?
Feedback Carb or Non Feedback?
Auto or Manual Trans?
These are the questions Alldata is asking.

[charger R/T]

Quote:

Originally Posted by icedogs66 thanks i will give these a try but without the wire that runs back to the battery I get 60 volts off the back stud on the alternator it fried the wire that goes to the battery

with that battery wire fried the regulator will full field the alternator and since it has no where to go the voltage will be high. I have seen 30-40 volts before when it fries the fuse link. The 60 volts makes me wonder if it has a standard chrysler alternator or the old school chrysler 100 amp alternator. They did sometimes have them but very rare. If it does have a 100 amp alternator it would be a very big alternator and it is rubber bushed mount. Check the ground wire to engine. It could cause the same reading if the ground is open and the volt meters negitive lead is hooked to either body or engine. If it doesn't have a hugh alternator with rubber bushings it is solid mounted chrysler unit.(no ground wire needed or used by factory) As far as someone swapping in the bigger 100 amp I would doubt it since the mounting brackets are differant and hard to find.

Jan looking it up either 6 or 8 and feedback or not shouldn't matter. The circuit should be the same. Just differant wire size for B+ for a 100 amp if it was an option. Plus a ground strap for the 100 amp option.
Tim

[NAJ]