Still having electrical problems....

[minimopar]

Yeah, the LM is just as suspect as the PM, I guess. Semi-perminently attach a volt meter to the 8V feed between the PM and the LM. If the voltage is steady during the clicking, then I would suspect the LM. If the voltage is unstable, the PM or a power feed to it is the likely culprit.

[Lee'sdaytona]

Yeah by all means try a new Logic module, assuming you tried replacing your HEP, they tend to go bad and do crazy things....I had the same frustrating thing happen with my car.....usually on RAINY days, and hitting bumps the car would die. sometimes start right up, sometimes struggle to start, big white puff of smoke, backfireing..the whole 9 yards. What happens is the weather seal above the Logic Module dries out and water leaks in, soaking the LM, and making the car do all kinds of crazy things, including symptoms like yours, and even throwing false codes. My car too ran great on nice days. Try tapping the LM while the engine is running, and open the LM and look for signs of water: mildew smell, or water itself. I wish you the best of luck...these problems can be a nightmare to diagnose but they are usually very minor problems...report back with any info....good luck!!

PS: thoes plastic bags that cover the LM don't work. I picked up some of that spray foam insulation and went to town. Haven't had the car die in 2 years...knock on wood

[JohnnyLightning86]

Thanks again guys. The car has been running great this past week and I did not have any problems starting it for the better part of the week until yesterday when I started working on the IC hoses and plumbing because I was having some issues with the hoses collapsing at idle.

I fixed the turbo outlet to IC side, but did not fix the side going back to the intake. I tried starting the car last night and it started right up, ran for a little bit and then when it began to idle down it died again. After that, I could not hardly get that car to start and run for any length of time no matter what I did. But I did notice when it was running for a bit that the two elbow hoses going back to the intake were totally collapsing. So I am now beginning to suspect the engine is just really starved for air since I fixed the other side of the IC plumbing. At the least, I am wondering if that is not contributing to the problem. And when it dies, the computer is trying to correct the issue somehow by adjusting the AIM and fuel injectors.

I hope to work on it tonight, but I could not get to sleep last night and I am just exhausted this morning, so it may be tomorrow before I can get to it. I am still going to check that logic module though. Like Lee'sdaytona, I have also noticed that the car tends to act up more after it rains.

Thanks again.
Mike

[JohnnyLightning86]

Well, the problem is still occurring and seems to be getting worse.

This is what I have changed out:
Logic Module
Power Module
HEPA
TPS & AIM
Checked and rechecked the connectors and wire harnesses all over the engine bay.
I have completely redone the IC plumbing and none of the hoses can collapse anymore.

So I do not think the problem lies in any of these units. The car will start up fine, run for about 30 seconds or so, then it starts cutting out and dies. Then you can hear the AIM turn or reset, then the injectors, PM, and fuel pump all start clicking in unison. I have to unplug one of the connectors to the PM, let it sit for few moments, then plug it back in and the key must be in the on position. It's not getting any codes. I am now wondering if the problem might not be with the fuel pump and/or coil. Since both of these units are on the same circuit.

Please help, this is driving me crazy.

[JohnnyLightning86]

Something else I have also been noticing, as I am driving down the road it feels like the car is intermittently cutting out. This seems to coincide with the readings on the A/F gauge. When it cuts out, the A/F drops into the red or very lean condition. Since the coil is on the same wire as the fuel pump, I am now wondering if it might not just be something to do with coil or the wires leading to the coil, which also run to the PM. I replaced the coil several years back and I have avoided looking at it as the culprit, but now I think I will try switching that out and at least eliminate that as a possibility if nothing more.

[JohnnyLightning86]

Of all the things, and I am certainly hoping this was the problem. It may just have been the coil. There was some significant corrosion on the contact on the coil itself, and there was corrosion on the end of coil wire where it snaps onto the coil. I replaced the coil and cleaned the end of the wire with a wire brush. The car ran beautifully after that - no cutting out, no hesitation, just as smooth as it could be. The real test will be tomorrow morning when it is cold and has been sitting for hours - crossing my fingers, knocking on wood, and saying a prayer....

[JohnnyLightning86]

Still no luck - car still dies after running about 30 seconds.

[TurboShadowES]

I had the dying when comeing to a stop problem in my shadow adn always blamed it on the SCS... But after I ran some injector cleaner thru it it stop dying. its worth shot!

[JohnnyLightning86]

I have put Fuel Injector cleaner in it and it made no difference. However, the past couple of days the car has been running as good as can be expected - no dying, no cutting out, just about as good as it ever has. Though I keep waiting for it to die on me at anytime. It died on me yesterday morning after I started it, but it has not done it since and I have been running all over town in it.

[unclejemima]

did you check the injector harness? I've heard that cause some problems as well.
-mark
PS
Regardless, best of luck, i know how you feel!

[PeteGLH]

I understand your trouble bud!

I had this problem once... actually all my TD's die at idle lol, I hate that feeling...

Check your ground on the fuel rail, I had hell with mine once, turned out to be that ground that came undone. I would also check for continuity on the wires from the LM to the air charge sensor or other sensors.. could be a cracked wire giving you problems...

Hope you figure this problem out, I've been having troubles with my GLH as well in the past few days!

[unclejemima]

stupid question...but what year is this car?
-mark

[JohnnyLightning86]

Quote:

Originally Posted by unclejemima stupid question...but what year is this car? -mark

86 Daytona - Intercooled 2.2L T1 with modified log intake - PM and LM. The past few days or so it has actually been doing better. I also found a short ground wire disconnected that attaches from the passenger side motor mount to the frame. What's weird is this wire is just like the ground wire on the fuel rail that is attached to the firewall. Only this particular wire is not connected to anything else - it's just a short wire that clips on the motor mount and on the frame - don't see how it is of any use actually, but it's there.

Now the engine is leaking oil like carzy - steady stream running down the passenger of the engine and on to the oil pan. I have changed oil pan gasket, the valve cover gasket, and checked the OHC seal - all seems to be in good order. I am guessing it's the front main - but it shouldn't be doing that since it has not been that long since I had the engine rebuilt.

This is really getting frustrating.

[unclejemima]

i feel your pain. I know the ground strap your talking about. I'm in the process of replacing mine. I think its to carry a ground over the engine mount cause its rubber.
-mark

[tvanlant]

Was there any solution to this problem? I am having the same no-start issues and the unison fuel pump/ power module clicking.