TurboDodge.com MarketPlace Shelby Registry Contact Us

Advertisement - Remove these ads today by clicking here.
 

Go Back   TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more! > Turbo Dodge Technical Chat > General Electrical

General Electrical Discussion of fuseable links, wiring repairs, and other gadgets / gizmos not working.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools

Old 05-11-2008, 11:12 PM   #16
Re: Headlight Module Repair Part 2(Illustrated)  
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl

My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.387

Posts: 3,364
Feedback: (0)
The '90 HCM's *should* be the same between G&J body cars IIRC.

In '91 they both went to BCM control and there are two relays under the hood in the PDC that are part of the headlight motor circuts...
Reaper1 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2008, 11:27 AM   #17
Re: Headlight Module Repair Part 2(Illustrated)  
Naturally Aspirated
 
EvilcowRoland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Richmond, VA

My Ride: '90 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 I/C T1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,798
Feedback: (1)
Images: 11
Ah, good to know. Thanks.

I would like to fix it properly one of these days.
EvilcowRoland is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2008, 07:21 PM   #18
Re: Headlight Module Repair Part 2(Illustrated)  
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: New York

My Ride: 1990 Daytona CS
Engine: 2.2 VNT turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 24
Feedback: (0)
I did this with my 90 Daytona. When I took the HCM out the solder joints didnt look bad at all, but I resoldered them anyway and now it works fine. Thanks for the helpful thread!!
itsadaytona is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2008, 09:01 PM   #19
Re: Headlight Module Repair Part 2(Illustrated)  
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: frankfort,il

My Ride: 90' VNT,92'IROC RT
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 3
Feedback: (0)
Thanks to all of you guys.I finally got around to digging into the HCM on my 90' VNT.I located the unit,it took about 5 minutes of up-side-down work to get it out.I split the plastic case right down the middle going long-ways with a stanley knife (razor-blade) all the way around.I was able to pry the case apart without really damaging anything.I was also able to kind of slice around the molded rubber protectant and peel it off in one sheet on the solder side only.I lost a few small chunks but not much.
At first glance,the only solder-joint that was noticably bad was one of the pins for the plug-in connector.The closer I looked there where a few of the solder-joints for the (3) relay's that looked like they had very small cracks.All in all I re-soldered about (6) places that looked suspect.
I plugged it back in and guess what.....................YE-HAAAA !!!
It worked just like a new headlight flipper !!!
And by the way,That box is like 3W x 4L x 2 Deep.
Thanks again.
jdmr111 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

» Quick Nav
- Home
- Classifieds
- Timeslips
- Gallery
- Vendors
-- Directory
- Tech Articles
- Donate
Sponsors
remove ads

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.0.1
Credit Card Consolidation | Credit Cards | Online Loans | Mortgages | Hen Night


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.10
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.1.0

Page generated in 0.29988 seconds with 13 queries