Ok so here is the long awaited ATP "3 swingvalve build thread.
Here is a list of things that you will need.
- ATP Swingvalve
- 3 inch v band down pipe with a 4 1/2 inch radius bend right off the flange
- ZF power steering pump with all the mounting hardware and hoses. I got mine out of a 92 shadow.
- 5x exhaust manifold nuts or small head flange nut
- 5x 8 by 1.25 studs, I took some bolts and cut the heads off of them, but others have used allen style studs similar to what a arp head stud has. I kinda like the allen style idea.
- 2x 8 by 1.25 bolts that are 1 inch long
- 6x 8mm washers
- 1 piece of sheet metal apx 8 inches sq
- 1 adjustable wg
Step 1: You will need to make your studs to hold the sv
onto the turbo. I took the flange thickness plus 3/4 inch. 1/4 for the nut, 1/4 for the stud to stick past the nut and 1/4 for the stud to go into the turbo (that was how far the factory bolts stuck into the housing using the factory style sv
). Use high temp anti seize on one end of the stud and run the nut onto the stud so the stud sticks past the nut 1/4 inch.
Step 2: You will need to do a little porting/dremmel work on the sv
Take your porting tool (I'm sure that a dremmel will work fine) and port around a few of the bolt holes on the outside of the sv
. For some reason they didn't give you enough room for a socket to go on a nut or bolt to hold on the sv
, so just put the stud/nut combo into the hole and grind accordingly. After that you will notice the exhaust will exit the turbo and run right into a small 1/8 inch tall wall at the bottom of the sv
on the inside, smooth that out as well.
Already cleaned up
Step 3: I would say this is optional for 3 bar users going 16+ psi
, but I would say a must for those only running a 2 bar. Port out the wg
hole. Bolt up the sv
and shoot a light colored paint around the wg
while it is shut tight against the turbo. This will show you how much space you have and were you need to take material out. Pull the sv
and port the wg
hole to apx 1 inch. I'm sure I don't need to say this, but do not port out into the painted area. In fact make sure you leave some material inside the painted area so the wg
has plenty to shut off on. Doing this will help bring the minimum boost level down a bit and make it easier to control boost levels.
Step 4: Install the ZF pump. Should be pretty self explanatory on this one. On a side note. . . The masi uses the zf pump without using the back mounting bracket that goes from the back of the pump to the block. I haven't been using it and it works fine. BY NOT USING IT YOU ARE DOING SO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Its pretty hit and miss on what car uses the ZF pump. You look under the hood on two different cars of the same year and one will have it and the other won't. My understanding is that they came in 89 and newer cars. So just head to the JY and start popping hoods on all the 4 cylinders 89 and up till ya find one. With back bracket
Step 5: Make a small heat shield for the back of the ps pump to protect it from the exhaust. You can make it however you want, but you will notice that there are two bolt holes on the back of the pump. One is for the back bracket and the other is for Lord knows what. Use those two holes to mount the heat shield you just made. Using your two 8 by 1.25 mm bolt that is 1 inch long. Take two of the washers per bolt and use them as spacers between the pump and shield and the other between the head of the bolt and the heat shield.
without back bracket and with heat shield
Step 6: Install the adjustable wg
arm. Now you can make your own adjustable wg
arm by cutting the wg
arm and using a 1/4 20 die you can thread both ends of the arm were you cut it. Then get a turnbuckle nut and a few lock nuts and viola! adjustable wg
Sorry I don't have any pics of this
Step 7: install the sv
and exhaust and your done