GLH-T floors are done

[ajakeski]

I finally finished the floors and now I'm getting it ready for paint.
See it all here:
Floored

[shellboy]

nice job!

[xtrempickup]

should outlast the rest of the car

[ACRucrazy]

How mant hrs did that take? LOL

[kermit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACRucrazy How mant hrs did that take? LOL

I'm also interested in how long it took. My tona could use a pretty extensive patch job.

[ajakeski]

I have about 40 hours in the floors.

[shellboy]

40 hours!! omg! i think its called LOVE!!!!!

[shelbyman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajakeski I finally finished the floors and now I'm getting it ready for paint. See it all here: Floored

I'm into a similar situation with my GLHT. Did you find it necessary to remove the complete dash assy to do the job? It doesn't look as though it would provide that much additional access. How difficult a job is it to remove and reinstall?

Also, my inner fender sheet metal needs repair/replacement as well. Also, I've noticed that the area behind both strut towers has some rust and has created a hole on the passenger side. The only way I can see to repair it is to weld a patch from the inside, apply POR-15 and then try to apply seam sealer / undercoat....but it is a very tight fit for any kind of complete repair....did you have a similar problem with yours.

[ajakeski]

Removing the dash is the only way to remove the insulation on the firewall (The rubber covered stuff). For my project there were spots that needed repair under this insulation.
From what you have described, you would be able to fix your passenger side hole once the dash and HVAC box are removed.
As for how hard the dash is to remove, it's not easy, but if you take your time and mark things as you go it shouldn't be too bad of a job. There's a lot of wires, more than I expected. Once it's all out, it's a good time to add some better insulation to the firewall and maybe replace the heater core and AC evaporator.

[shelbyman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajakeski Removing the dash is the only way to remove the insulation on the firewall (The rubber covered stuff). For my project there were spots that needed repair under this insulation. From what you have described, you would be able to fix your passenger side hole once the dash and HVAC box are removed. As for how hard the dash is to remove, it's not easy, but if you take your time and mark things as you go it shouldn't be too bad of a job. There's a lot of wires, more than I expected. Once it's all out, it's a good time to add some better insulation to the firewall and maybe replace the heater core and AC evaporator.

Thanks. How long did it take to remove the dash?

I'm not convinced yet I need to remove the dash only that I can't see any issues under the pad and I'm not sure it affords me much more access to do the repairs

Here's a couple of pics of the passenger side damage (worst side). Drivers side is not as bad, but access up into the corner where the inner fender attaches might be an issue.

misc 017.jpg

misc 016.jpg

[kermit]

WOW SHELBYMAN!

And I thought that my daytona was bad, lol. I also have rust up into the back of the strut towers. I probably will end up pulling the dash to get mine fixed.

[shelbyman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kermit WOW SHELBYMAN! And I thought that my daytona was bad, lol. I also have rust up into the back of the strut towers. I probably will end up pulling the dash to get mine fixed.

I'll post some pics of the finished product when done.....hoping to have it done by months-end

[ajakeski]

You can have the dash out in a few hours. It's not that bad. With it and the heater box out you have a lot more room. You can take out all the insulation too. Less chance for a fire while you are welding. That insulation smells like crap after it's been burned.

[shelbyman]

From your web page you say:

"There is a channel stamped into the floor right above the frame rails. You can see it from in the engine bay, just look where the rail and firewall meet. (I tried to point this out in one of the close up photos) This channel was filled with leaves, dirt and other composted matter. It also creates a path for water to run down the top of the rail and collect between the rail and the floor. Add in all the debris and you have a moisture holding sponge to help the already fragile sheet metal decompose.

A bead of seam sealer at the rail/firewall junction would have saved the floors."

If you seal up the opening where the rail meets the firewall, won't that just create a water dam allowing moisture to just sit there? I squirted some oil down the channel and watched it ooze down the channel and out the hole at the bottom of the frame rail. I figure the channel needs to be kept clean and the hole opening clear of debris to allow water to drip down the channel and out the bottom of the floor. I think trying to seal it up will only create a place for water to accumulate. I plan on wire brushing the channel, applying por 15 and then some rust proof paint. I will then apply some waxed based undercoat to the channel.....I think this will more than last me the life of the car

[ajakeski]

When you cut out the floor you will see that that channel ends under the floor and the top of the rail is flat right under the floor. Crap making it's way down there and staying wet is what caused these to rot. Sealing the firewall will keep out the debris and water. Some water could accumulate at the sealer, but with nothing to absorb it, and no where for it to go, it will evaporate before it can penatrate the paint and get to the steel.
I have the engine bay painted and I'll be posting pics soon. I'll make a point to get some pics of the sealer.