TD New Guy
Join Date: Sep 2011
My Ride: 90Sun/87DaZ/98Exprso
Engine: 153 TBI/135 T2/2.0 DOHC
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Re: Ground effects schematics
I have been a chronic lurker on this site since I became a member. I have recently added the "94 Plymouth Duster" ground effects and door panels to my daughter's Sundance. I had a good set of plastic and the hangers didn't need too much straitening. The "Z" hangars were another story, I only have 3 of the 4; the solution to be shared in a moment.
I had read some posts by members of various forums as I have attempted this before with lesser results.
Here is how I learned to achieve a very “professional” installation result:
1. Go through the primary ground effect hangar (rails) very thoroughly. Ensure they are as straight as possible.
NOTE: I was most concerned with the door panel and lower “hockey stick” panel lining up well. After reading many posts, I understood that the door panel would need to be hung 1st.
2. I used double sided tape to position the door panel where it looked symmetrical, then carried out the top line forward and to the rear as a guide for the “hockey sticks” and the front quarter piece. Now I had a line to work with.
3. I installed the door panels, soft (not permanent), so that adjustments could be applied as necessary.
4. Next I taped on the primary hangar (for the hockey sticks). I hung the door panel to see where the hockey stick looked and worked. I wound up getting a point of reference for the forward most point of the primary hanger, I marked it for use. I verified that the hockey sticks did not interfere with the door panel and that the gap between them was symmetrical.
5. Now I felt comfortable temporarily screwing on the primary hangar. With it in place, I attached the hockey stick and re-checked the relationship between the door panel and the lower panels (hockey stick). With the lower panel attached I made my placement for the rear “Z” channel (see NOTE below)
6. Since this looked unemployable, I commenced the layout for the forward section (on the front quarter panel). Once I had a reasonable location for this panel, I tapped on the “Z” channel to support it (see NOTE below). Next I temporarily hung the forward section to verify it was hanging in the correct area.
NOTE: when I hung the “Z” channels, I hung them about 1/8” lower then I thought they needed to be as this permitted modest room for adjustment.
7. For the purpose of the “LAYOUT”, I chose some 1/8” self tapping fasteners. I wouldn’t be using them in the long run but I hadn’t found the replacement fasteners yet and wasn’t sold on using rivets either (yet).
-I have had to disassemble cars that I have worked on before and I never like doing so when blind fasteners were used, so I avoid their use unless the situation absolutely necessitates it. For the “Z” channels, I decided to use the 1/8” self tapping screws as a final installation method.
-I was planning to use a more stout similar fastener for the primary hangars but the sheet metal supporting them is not as thick as I would like something hanging on a screw to be. So, for the primary hangars, I am planning on using blind fasteners (rivets). I have not decided on the final size and may use the screws anyways as I don’t love removing rivets.
-I don’t plan on using the cool Chrysler plastic hanging fasteners for the plastics. I failed to find anyone that had them for a reasonable price and found some very inexpensive “push/plugs” that seem to work very well, hence they are planned for the final.
I am just finishing up the body work and paint. Upon completion I will install the bumper, ground and door effects as the “layout”, which did take me some time…6 hours, is complete. The final installation will only take 2 hours tops as all the holes have been drilled and primed.
I will apologize for not knowing how to post photos as I took many of the entire process. I someone would like to SEE this process, I am more than happy to share the photos (they make it look much more simple)