Ground effects schematics

[musqlar55]

Any place to find schematics on replacing rivet, screws, fasteners for ground effects and dust shields. Purchased set from Omni Potent and they are labeled, but want more specifics. Thanks.

[gomopar88]

Good question! I bought mine a few months back and have no idea how to mount them. I cant believe no one here does not have any info or pics to share on the process.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

for what car?

the diagrams should be in the factory service manuals - but they won't show much

[pSUN]

Hello,

I have been a chronic lurker on this site since I became a member. I have recently added the "94 Plymouth Duster" ground effects and door panels to my daughter's Sundance. I had a good set of plastic and the hangers didn't need too much straitening. The "Z" hangars were another story, I only have 3 of the 4; the solution to be shared in a moment.

I had read some posts by members of various forums as I have attempted this before with lesser results.

Here is how I learned to achieve a very “professional” installation result:

1. Go through the primary ground effect hangar (rails) very thoroughly. Ensure they are as straight as possible.

NOTE: I was most concerned with the door panel and lower “hockey stick” panel lining up well. After reading many posts, I understood that the door panel would need to be hung 1st.

2. I used double sided tape to position the door panel where it looked symmetrical, then carried out the top line forward and to the rear as a guide for the “hockey sticks” and the front quarter piece. Now I had a line to work with.
3. I installed the door panels, soft (not permanent), so that adjustments could be applied as necessary.
4. Next I taped on the primary hangar (for the hockey sticks). I hung the door panel to see where the hockey stick looked and worked. I wound up getting a point of reference for the forward most point of the primary hanger, I marked it for use. I verified that the hockey sticks did not interfere with the door panel and that the gap between them was symmetrical.
5. Now I felt comfortable temporarily screwing on the primary hangar. With it in place, I attached the hockey stick and re-checked the relationship between the door panel and the lower panels (hockey stick). With the lower panel attached I made my placement for the rear “Z” channel (see NOTE below)
6. Since this looked unemployable, I commenced the layout for the forward section (on the front quarter panel). Once I had a reasonable location for this panel, I tapped on the “Z” channel to support it (see NOTE below). Next I temporarily hung the forward section to verify it was hanging in the correct area.

NOTE: when I hung the “Z” channels, I hung them about 1/8” lower then I thought they needed to be as this permitted modest room for adjustment.

7. For the purpose of the “LAYOUT”, I chose some 1/8” self tapping fasteners. I wouldn’t be using them in the long run but I hadn’t found the replacement fasteners yet and wasn’t sold on using rivets either (yet).

Supplementary Notes:
-I have had to disassemble cars that I have worked on before and I never like doing so when blind fasteners were used, so I avoid their use unless the situation absolutely necessitates it. For the “Z” channels, I decided to use the 1/8” self tapping screws as a final installation method.
-I was planning to use a more stout similar fastener for the primary hangars but the sheet metal supporting them is not as thick as I would like something hanging on a screw to be. So, for the primary hangars, I am planning on using blind fasteners (rivets). I have not decided on the final size and may use the screws anyways as I don’t love removing rivets.
-I don’t plan on using the cool Chrysler plastic hanging fasteners for the plastics. I failed to find anyone that had them for a reasonable price and found some very inexpensive “push/plugs” that seem to work very well, hence they are planned for the final.

I am just finishing up the body work and paint. Upon completion I will install the bumper, ground and door effects as the “layout”, which did take me some time…6 hours, is complete. The final installation will only take 2 hours tops as all the holes have been drilled and primed.

I will apologize for not knowing how to post photos as I took many of the entire process. I someone would like to SEE this process, I am more than happy to share the photos (they make it look much more simple)

pSUN

[gomopar88]

For the L body GLH...

[musqlar55]

85 sc

[NAJ]

You should be able to find exploded views in the Chrysler Parts Catalog.
I suggest downloading them to your computer, they load faster and you will have them should the links stop working.
Total space required is 264 MB's.

CHRYSLER PARTS CATALOG(POST 41 HAS THE LINKS)
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...-pdf-82-a.html

[pSUN]

Howdy,

I don't mean to come off defensive but I realize that you weren't asking about a Plymouth Sundance, Duster or Dodge Shadow ES. My point was that as long as the kit matches the chasis, even with no holes, instructions or the correct installation hardware, it isn't too difficult.

Now, in regards to your specific make and model; what I did when facing a similar situation was go to my local Dodge Dealership and they printed out several pages of information strait from the Manufacture's service manual. I did this for a different car, still not an 85 SC (GLH) but an 87 Shelby Z. The print outs showed the installation of the bumpers, all trim pieces, all supporting structures, the ground and door pieced and all hardware and the correct location. FOR FREE.