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Interior Restoration or topics about the interior

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Old 11-28-2004, 06:26 PM   #16
 
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Hey everytbody, I followed that diagram and started fixing my floppy tilt steering column today. wasnt hard, i only cant figure out why i cant get my high beams to come on. for some reason i cant get the actuator placed properly as it was when it came off. i got the column tightened, actually did it with a 1/4 socket instead of reverse drive torx socket. now its dark and im a little pissed that i cant get the actuator back in properly. The diagram shows how it should look, but even with that, i still am having trouble. its lined up, but for some reason, i dont have the tension that it had before , seemed also spring-like before. you know how it clicks, well its like not meeting up right. Anybody else have the same problem getting the high beams and actuator back in right??
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Old 11-28-2004, 09:39 PM   #17
 
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Make sure the rod actuator is in the correct position and the end of the rod is seated properly in the switch.
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Old 11-28-2004, 09:45 PM   #18
 
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that is what i wasnt sure about. is there a way that it is supposed to go or how the rod is supposed to be postioned? does it connect to the dimmer actuator in any way. right now mine is just limp and apart
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Old 11-29-2004, 06:41 PM   #19
 
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fixed mine, SWEET anybody who needs help in NJ or Metro NYC i would be willing to do it for you for a few bucks and my gas to your house
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Old 12-02-2004, 10:38 AM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearcat
Well if anybody can come to Lebanon Ohio and do that,(fix the tilt) I'll throw in $50 bucks and a 6 pack of beer..

any takers?

Mark
Seriously, this isn't that hard. I know it might seem intimidating at first just go down to checker and get yourself a Chiltons manual, a steering wheel puller, and steering lock compressor.

Earlier this year I was trying to get my project GTC registered. It failed because of a loose column. It was like that when I bought it. So I took it home and after a few hours I had it tightened up and the car passed. There are just a few bolts that you need to back all the way out, cover the threads in lock tight, and tighten them back up. Two of them aren't that easy to get to but it really isn't that hard. Just pay attention to how everything comes out. Also, if you have an airbag don't forget to unplug your battery a few hours before you work on it.
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Old 12-17-2004, 04:34 PM   #21
 
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bearcat i live in mason ohio lemme fix mine and i will check urs out
 
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Old 12-21-2004, 09:52 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by 87shelbyzt
bearcat i live in mason ohio lemme fix mine and i will check urs out
Email me at turbobearcat@yahoo.com


BC
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Old 12-21-2004, 10:58 PM   #23
 
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i could walk anybody through this job, the steering wheel depresser was 10 $. a puller is 15 mayb. then to do it is about an hour and its simple
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:03 AM   #24
 
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Easy repair. If the bearings are toast go to the local GM dealership and ask the parts guy for a steering col. rack kit. It will have the rack the lock cylinder runs and the bearings. For some reason you can get this cheaper from GM than Mother Mopar.

Capt. Chrysler
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Old 12-28-2004, 07:05 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by Capt. Chrysler
Easy repair. If the bearings are toast go to the local GM dealership and ask the parts guy for a steering col. rack kit. It will have the rack the lock cylinder runs and the bearings. For some reason you can get this cheaper from GM than Mother Mopar.

Capt. Chrysler
Thanks for the tip..

I'm doing a restore on the car starting in early Feb and I hope to be done by the end of March/April sometime. Fresh paint and maybe new carpet, everything else is really in good shape on the car, thinking about sending the rims off to be sandblasted and polished as well.

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