Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap - Page 2 - Turbo Dodge Forums : Turbo Dodge Forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Dodge Daytona, Dodge SRT-4, Chrysler PT Cruiser, Omni and more!
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post #16 of 117 Old 02-19-2011, 08:06 AM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

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Originally Posted by icecoldcanuck View Post
So if I cut and splice appropriate wires from Caravan wires to the Daytona wires (power to power, headlight to headlight, etc to etc all corresponding wires. everything should function correctly....I hope...I'm still looking for the caravan wiring and actually the van is a 1991 if that changes things I hope not. I have both vehicles side by side in my garage and they both seem to have the same relays, amount of wires going to the main plug on firewall...haven't checked to see if the wire colours are the same (wishful thinking but manufacturers do tend to do that) ill find out tomorrow going to dealer to get wiring diagrams/chart for both hopefully. Will be posting progress as we go along...pulling motors and trans' tomorrow...funny thing we took the Daytona for it's last 4 banger ride today and blew the head gasket....could this be a sign...maybe meant to be.
Having done similar type swaps before, I would recommend separating the engine and body wiring some. Only cut and splice the engine specific wires on the Daytona. I usually do this by back tracing the engine specific connectors and cutting them out. I would stagger the cuts so that the splices will happen over a wider area to avoid excessive bulging of the wiring harness.

Going by colors will get you 90-95% of the way there. The wiring diagrams are helpful for the remainder.

How are you going to do the splicing? Soldering and heat shrink tubing is "best". Do NOT get Harbor Freight heat shrink tubing the stuff gets BRITTLE once it is shrunk. Lowe's and SummitRacing.com sell better stuff.

Another option would be crimp on connectors with heat shrink plastic over them. (ie. "Marine" grade crimp-on butt connectors.) The two issues with this are price and bulky. But they are quick and seal against water well. Around here, Lowe's and Menard's sell them.

I know the fate saying 'it is time' feeling. My '87 Shadow (2.5 turbo) had a catastrophic failure. So I took the opportunity to drop a 3.0L V6 in and have been smiling ever since!

If you want some porting done on the 3.3L heads, let me know.

Ed Kelly - Kelly-Mulhern Performance
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post #17 of 117 Old 02-19-2011, 08:20 AM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

Just noted that you have a '90 Daytona. That was the first year a 3.0 V6 was put in those cars. They used a pancake radiator fan motor because of space. I believe later they moved the radiator closer the front of the vehicle. So you will either need to find a '90 v6 radiator fan or make a pusher fan setup (put the fan in front of the radiator.)

To make fan a pusher, just reverse the polarity of the connector. I used a minivan fan because it was narrower and fit without cutting any supports or making any shrouding.
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post #18 of 117 Old 02-19-2011, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

Yet another question...working on the van today to remove motor and I would like to know what this is (see photos) I can't seem to get any info from local part stores today.
Hopefully not neede for running but if so I guess I'm using the entire van harness...lots and lots of wires. This was mounted on firewall.

Thanks in advance Chris

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post #19 of 117 Old 02-19-2011, 09:00 PM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

The 3.3 is specific to itself, and I was old once that the only trans that will bolt up to it is its own 3.3 5 speed, or its auto counterpart.
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post #20 of 117 Old 02-19-2011, 10:14 PM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

I believe that is the Transmission Control Module (aka TCM). You will need to port that across...
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post #21 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 12:13 AM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

Check your Private Messages icecoldcanuck.
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post #22 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 12:51 AM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by c2xejk View Post
Having done similar type swaps before, I would recommend separating the engine and body wiring some. Only cut and splice the engine specific wires on the Daytona. I usually do this by back tracing the engine specific connectors and cutting them out. I would stagger the cuts so that the splices will happen over a wider area to avoid excessive bulging of the wiring harness.

Going by colors will get you 90-95% of the way there. The wiring diagrams are helpful for the remainder.

How are you going to do the splicing? Soldering and heat shrink tubing is "best". Do NOT get Harbor Freight heat shrink tubing the stuff gets BRITTLE once it is shrunk. Lowe's and SummitRacing.com sell better stuff.

Another option would be crimp on connectors with heat shrink plastic over them. (ie. "Marine" grade crimp-on butt connectors.) The two issues with this are price and bulky. But they are quick and seal against water well. Around here, Lowe's and Menard's sell them.

I know the fate saying 'it is time' feeling. My '87 Shadow (2.5 turbo) had a catastrophic failure. So I took the opportunity to drop a 3.0L V6 in and have been smiling ever since!

If you want some porting done on the 3.3L heads, let me know.

Ed Kelly - Kelly-Mulhern Performance
Hey, I definitely would like some port work done on a 3.3L. I am swapping one into a Daytona as well. Glad to see people are starting to realise that swapping one of these torquey work horses into something like a Daytona is a great reliable/affordable way to get turbo-like power without the hassles. What stages do you have to offer for a 3.3/3.8? Can you port match an intake plenum as well? I'd definitely be willing to pay a reputable person like you to port my 3.3 heads, you do excellent work on the 3.0 stuff. Thanks in advance.

ϟϴĦ☾﹩℘я⊥ṧ ⌨℠
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post #23 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 02:51 AM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

no body swapping the Imperial 3.8 into a Tona yet?

As far as wiring swap EVERYTHING under the hood of the van. It all has to go. The only thing you could leave out is ABS but that could cause more troubles in the computer.
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post #24 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 12:31 PM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

SOHCSports I PM'd you.

Ed Kelly - Kelly-Mulhern Performance
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post #25 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

Well finally got everything out of the van its been a long day...next the Daytona maybe Monday, van gone down the road to scrap yard....here are some more progress pics.



Out She Comes



Big Lift



There we go



Now off to the car wash
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post #26 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 01:08 PM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

ALWAYS out the bottom, never go out the top. Your making life hard on your self lol. But your on your way though.

The 3.3 / 3.8 is a prime candidate for a upper plenum too the way there are designed. Shelby added a new top and cam to the spec racers.
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post #27 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

I know now lol...lots of cursing I'll tell you...lol
Thanks again
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post #28 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

Upper Plenum too or 2 means more power I'm guessing
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post #29 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 01:28 PM
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

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Originally Posted by icecoldcanuck View Post
Upper Plenum too or 2 means more power I'm guessing
upper plenum also. More power / RPM range. Port the loer half and the heads and add the D plenum with V6 58mm TB ported out. should add a few in NA. But then you add a turbo and it runs even better lol.
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post #30 of 117 Old 02-20-2011, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Daytona 2.5 to 3.3 Swap

I think we might stay stock for now...we wouldn't want my son to lose his license first day out lol
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