I do know you can run k-car/g-body axles in an l-body by using the g-body k-member and control arms. A guy on Facebook has an Omni called Frankenstein with a v6 and shadow suspension. Also, I do want more boost, but I must upgrade my trans first, then buy some race gas. The plan for my Omni is to have switchable boost. Right now boost reference is straight to the wastegate. I could add a solenoid and make it computer controlled at the flip of a switch. More boost in my Omni is far down the road, b/c our T&C is the big project right now. I'm trying to gather info for the sc drag car. I do know dcr had an auto holding his 700hp 2.4. Someone said he built another and was making 1500hp.
Well, you are partially correct. You are missing a lot of information. A K-car based K frame is in no way, shape, or form a bolt in for an L-body. The body pick-up points are completely different. Yes, a few guys have done it, but it requires completely cutting off the mounting legs, and relocating them to match the L-body mounting points. Of course then you still have the issue of the wheels sticking out of the body a couple inches because it's so much wider. Don't believe everything you read on facebook. One of the SDAC members is building a GRM Challenge Rampage. He used K-car suspension in it, but only after heavily modifying the K-frame, and reconfiguring the front fenders & rear quater panels by widing them out considerably so the truck doesn't look ridiculous with the tires sticking out. He has hundreds of hours of fab work into making that setup work. But, it's a purpose-built vehicle, and he wanted the wider stance for better handling.
Typically, an 89+ dual pivot K-frame is sectioned in the middle and narrowed to L-body specs because they want the better suspension geometry of the dual pivot A arms. But you still use L-body axles because when finished, it's stock width. I'm guessing that's what your facebook guy did.
As far as an auto holding the power, sure it can be done. Lots of guys do it every day. But I can tell you, you don't want to see the price tag of that auto that will hold 700 hp, or 1500 hp. Generally speaking, it's easier to make an auto hold the power than a stick. The torque converter flashes and takes a lot of the initial hit to save parts. That's one of the main reasons the fastest minivans are all autos. Less shock to the driveline...
Again, I'm not trying to burst your bubble, but let you know that once you get into this, you are going to find MAJOR sticker shock. Just hope you're ready to pony up the dough...
Like I said yesterday: cubic inches, or cubic dollars, how fast can you afford to go???