3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS - Page 30 - Turbo Dodge Forums : Turbo Dodge Forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Dodge Daytona, Dodge SRT-4, Chrysler PT Cruiser, Omni and more!

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post #436 of 465 Old 06-22-2016, 07:41 AM
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Haha well no news is good news then, i was worried you blew it up and gave up on the project, glad to hear that isnt the case! Hopfully someone can help you on the injectors, idk who runs those injectors, im pretty sure ed does, and i will be once i get off my lazy butt and put mine in, but il have the newer fuel rail.
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post #437 of 465 Old 06-23-2016, 02:15 PM
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

The injector clips, in my experience, are just for security. My guess is that there are more than one rows of slots for you to install the clips. Try the second row( if they exist) and feel how tight the injector o-rings fit(chrysler o-rings). If you aren't confident at this point. Use thicker OD O-rings with your intended ID. In my experience the tension between the fuel rail and the injector creates the seal. Not the tension from the clip. The clip is there for safety in a worst case scenario type situation.

Take that for what it's worth.
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post #438 of 465 Old 06-24-2016, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Thanks ligtbulb. After measuring the top O-rings on the 3800 sc injectors that I bought, they were slightly smaller by about 1/32 or less in diameter and they did feel tighter when I installed them back into the fuel rail.

After measuring I also noticed that the lower o rings were again ever so slightly smaller. I did not replace these because I couldn't get them off without breaking them. Is it just as important to keep the lower o rings very tight? Or are the lower o rings not as big a deal as keeping the upper ones tight on the fuel rail?
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post #439 of 465 Old 06-24-2016, 10:46 AM
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

The lower o rings will create a vacume leak, uppers will create a fuel leak.
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post #440 of 465 Old 06-24-2016, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Okay thanks for the lowers if the 1/64 in diameter does create a vacuum leak when will is see it? Is it noticeable at idle or only when I let off of wot? Just wondering how you know they are the problem? Thanks!!!
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post #441 of 465 Old 07-08-2016, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Well got rained out yet again this year and track was closed for fourth of July and the pro am guys are here this weekend so no racing until the 16th.

In my down time and I will post pics soon I decided to rebuild the bearings on the sc.

After reading many threads I have noticed that getting the timing right on the rotors is almost impossible. Even a couple ten-thousandths off will mess up the rotors. So, is it necessary to replace the rotor pack bearings or is this something that is skipped over by many when they rebuild the snout bearings?

Also, how can I tell if those smaller o rings are causing a vac leak will I notice it at idle?

Thanks guys will post pics of the bearing rebuild this weekend and I would like to create a thread of the supercharger rebuild for reference for others because the rebuild info is scattered throughout multiple threads on the for t-bird forums.
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post #442 of 465 Old 07-11-2016, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Also guys it seems like more and more tracks are cracking down on running antifreeze. Would it hurt to run just water in our cars? Maybe need to add a reline water wetter or something to protect it form boiling over?
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post #443 of 465 Old 07-12-2016, 09:29 AM
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Many tracks that bar antifreeze bar water wetter too. They want straight water. For a pass down the dragstrip, straight water shouldn't hurt anything. Your cooling system is under pressure via the cap, and pressure raises the boiling point of water. Just be sure your cooling system is holding pressure and your fan is working properly. Also, don't forget and leave the water in the car when it turns cold again.
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post #444 of 465 Old 07-15-2016, 08:19 PM
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

And don't drain it out and forget you drained it and drive the car 5 miles before remembering the next spring and then have the car taken apart getting a piston replaced when you should really be working on something else anyway. Yup.
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post #445 of 465 Old 07-16-2016, 10:20 AM
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

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And don't drain it out and forget you drained it and drive the car 5 miles before remembering the next spring and then have the car taken apart getting a piston replaced when you should really be working on something else anyway. Yup.
I think coolant rules are like neighbor nuisance laws. They apply when someone doesn't like your car. The Junkyard Duster never got to run coolant but my Spirit always has even with a turbo.

Only time I ever left coolant on the track was some partially failed freeze plugs caused by the fact that I couldn't run coolant in the first place. One freeze plug blew out at 114mph threw traps.
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post #446 of 465 Old 07-17-2016, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Okay Time Slip Results but we got problems.

First 60 foot times are killing me. Even if I put smaller tires on I am not sure that this will make a big change. I currently have hoosier 26x8xR15.

Another thing the last pass the car blew the rear valve pan cover gasket off from under the valve pan. I think that maybe I need a breathable oil fill cap but I am unsure where to get one for the 3.0L.

Also the last two passes I noticed that it would start off with boost at 7psi but near the 1/4 mile finish line t would be 4 psi.

But the main problem is that with boost and the 4.28 gears my et should be way faster. and I am tacking it up before I launch.

Maybe the intake temps off of the sc are what is killikng me??? I am at a lost on what to do??? afr read 10.9 all the way down and timing is at 10.

I am open to all help because I am lost as to why car is not performing.

the car number in the time slips is 93Dx.
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post #447 of 465 Old 07-17-2016, 01:52 PM
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar969 View Post
Okay Time Slip Results but we got problems.

First 60 foot times are killing me. Even if I put smaller tires on I am not sure that this will make a big change. I currently have hoosier 26x8xR15.

Another thing the last pass the car blew the rear valve pan cover gasket off from under the valve pan. I think that maybe I need a breathable oil fill cap but I am unsure where to get one for the 3.0L.

Also the last two passes I noticed that it would start off with boost at 7psi but near the 1/4 mile finish line t would be 4 psi.

But the main problem is that with boost and the 4.28 gears my et should be way faster. and I am tacking it up before I launch.

Maybe the intake temps off of the sc are what is killikng me??? I am at a lost on what to do??? afr read 10.9 all the way down and timing is at 10.

I am open to all help because I am lost as to why car is not performing.

the car number in the time slips is 93Dx.
If you blew the rear valve cover gasket and your loosing boost at the top end of the track I would do a cylinder compression check. It sounds to me you may have lost some piston rings. The blow by caused by the bad piston rings would pressurize the crank case and you would start blowing gaskets!
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post #448 of 465 Old 07-17-2016, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Well oil never came out of the rear valve pan cover breather outlet. It only came out on the driver side rear where the valve pan cover ripped. I think the boost going down must be a leak on an inlet pipe or something but I fear that the heat of the intake temps is what is causing performance issues too. Maybe installing the gm directly ontop of the intake manifold will reduce this effect.

If I think about it the ford blower was designed to go through an intercooler. Meanwhile, the gm wasnt.
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post #449 of 465 Old 07-18-2016, 09:18 PM
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar969 View Post
Well oil never came out of the rear valve pan cover breather outlet. It only came out on the driver side rear where the valve pan cover ripped. I think the boost going down must be a leak on an inlet pipe or something but I fear that the heat of the intake temps is what is causing performance issues too. Maybe installing the gm directly ontop of the intake manifold will reduce this effect.

If I think about it the ford blower was designed to go through an intercooler. Meanwhile, the gm wasnt.
The blowers are basically the same.

Do a compression test instead of a laborious blower swap. If good then move from there to the next possible issue.

Damage could have happened long before you had the car running a safe AFR or timing.

26" tires make no sense where you are at, people run 8's on 24.5" tires FWD with near 1500fwhp.
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post #450 of 465 Old 07-19-2016, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

My logic on the 26" tires was based on a gear ratio calculator to prevent the car from going into fourth gear with the 604 since it is a weak gear. But that decision obviously led to bad results. I am now going with 23 inch tires and a 5 speed ecu to increase the rev limiter to a higher rpms in order to keep the trans in 3rd gear.
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