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BUILD THREAD: rear mount turbo

2K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  ub3r l33t dud3 
#1 ·
Yesterday i finaly raced my duster against something so i figured this build if far enough not to be embarassed about showing it to you guys! Dont have alot of time today so i will add more info and fix things in this post later.

I have been working on this for about a year and a half in my spair time, the goal was cheap easy turbo power, not reliabe, not pretty, not safe, not even that much power. I wanted to turbo this car since i was in high school following ondonti"s build (like 2010), and the car got to the point that it was going to be scrapped if i didnt do anything with it, so i had nothing to loose.

The idea for a rear mount came from a craigslist ad for a "rear mount setup" that had a turbo, oil pump, and a few other things. I was just after the oil pump but It turned out to have a turbo, wastegate, BOV, oil pump, airfilter, and a homemade manifold from a 3.0 ranger. Since it was from a 3.0 i decided to use it all and just modify it to work in the trunk of my duster, this saved me alot of fab work. The build is far from done but im focusing on other cars so id like to think i got to a decent stopping point.


So onto the car itself, its a 1993 duster, auto trans, and before i got it it was crashed a few times then it blew up on the way back from the junk yard, so now it has an unknown milage 3.0 from a labaron, it ticks, burn oil, and has bassicaly no oil pressure after about 5 minutes of running (got sick of the oil press guage reading zero so i pulled it out hahaha). The turbo is a used 50trim .63AR ebay t04e, waste gate and BOV are all used ebay junk, aswell as the AFPR, the only name brand stuff is a Flojet oil pump, a Vortech 14:1 fmu, and a set of 36# injectors from a supercharged gtp. Other than the turbo setup and fuel mods the only other mod is a larger throttle body. Sparkplugs are ordered and i am looking into meth injection at the moment.


The tunning is a little complicated, i started off on stock injectors with a 14:1 fmu at 4psi of boost, this dosent work with a vortech because it adds pressure from 0 base pressure, so at 4psi i had 56psi of fuel pressure which is hardly mor than stock. i bumped the boost up to 7psi and that gave me 98psi of fuel pressure, this got the af ratio to around 12.7 ish but only at full boost. When i put the 36# injectors in i did the math and found out that i would need around 38psi fuel pressure to get the same AF ratio, so i used an AFPR to lower the base fuel pressure to around 18psi (as low as i could get it to go) and i set the fmu up so that it only affects the AFPR, and i left the stock FPR hooked up so it cant go any higher than 42psi, this turned out to work pretty good, my AF ratio is around 11.5 at 8-9psi of boost, and it starts to get extra fuel around 1psi of boost, AF ratios stay pretty consistant though the boost range, they peak at 10.8 for a half second around 4psi of boost. All this could be better if i wer to buy the correct ratio disk for the FMU but it just happened to work out that i didnt really need to. Also i have the vacume referance removed from the stock FPR, if it is connected it will raise the final fuel pressure by however much boost is running, not alot but it might help fuel an extra 1-2psi of boost with these massive injectors. The car appears to have around 200HP bassed on the race we did yesterday, that is bassing it on my 1.8t gti that should have around 200-210hp but less torque.

Here is a pic of the car as it sits today





A few pics under the hood, im hoping to make it look stock at some point, mostly just put the top of an airbox on it, and hide the fuel pressure regulators.













This is a picture of the trunk when i had it to the point that i could drive it under boost, (check out that 90* angle on the down pipe!!!!)





And here are a few pics of how it sits today, i made a box with a vent motor to controll the fumes, it has an aluminum lid aswell thats not in the picture








And here is a pic of the intake pipe, Its 2.25 inch electrical conduate, i used it cause you can get mandrel bent corners from menards and its fairly cheep. pretty heavy but it does the job and can take a hit since it sits so low.

 
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#4 ·
The oil setup is about as simple as it gets, it has a 2 quart reservoir that feeds the pump, the pump sends oil to the turbo and I have a bypass hose with a ball valve to control pressure and an oil cooler, the bypass hose dumps into the the supply hose to the pump, rather than into the reservoir so that it cools the pump as well. The pump I use is rated to be a pressure pump but it isn't ideal, It was used as a scavage pump in the previous owners setup and I think that may have taken a toll on it. The turbo is mounted above the reservoir go that it gravity drains, this is important because otherwise you need 2 pumps.

I run the system at around 15psi because the pump really Boggs down at 30psi. The oil takes a long time to warm up, much longer than expected, and it affects spool time a lot, if I'm taking the car for a test drive I will ushually heat up the oil with a heat gun to the oil cooler just to get it to spool faster. I want to play around with much thinner oil and a diesel pump because this oil pump is very loud but Thats another one of those things that I'm not gonna do till I get more serious stuff worked out.


And thanks dr. Shred! It deffinatly is a different build, what I like about it is there was no need to flip the plenum and all the little stuff that goes with it, I didn't have to worry about exhaust bolts breaking on the manifolds, melting wires, or moving the battery. Everything under the hood bassicaly stayed exactly how it was from the factory, i would have done stuff a little different if I planned on driving it as a daily, or even as a second car but I knew there was a good chance that It might not even make it on the road so I'll be the first to admit I took a lottttttt of short cuts. And as far as the super FMU goes, at first I was just going to run low boost with stock injectors, and I found someone on craigslist selling a new in box vortech fmu for $75 so I jumped on it.
 
#5 ·
I haven't done anything with the car lately but I have a buddy that has a Buick grand national turbo, we lined up the other night and I was shocked to find out that they were exactly the same speed, after 3 races I was actually starting to pull on him in the top end, I assume it's from his intercooler getting heatsoaked. I figured he would be way faster but I was pretty happy to find out that wasent the case.
 
#6 ·
UPDATE: I used the car for about a month, had no major issues (timing belt let go the day before I put it on insurance, $20 later it runs like a champ) I fixed a few exhaust leaks which helped the spool time ALOT. The biggest issue with the car is that the oil pump and vent fan for the turbo use a lot of electricity,and the idle speed motor stopped receiving commands when i started this build so you have to keep one foot on the gas when at a stop light. I did notice that the car is horrible to drive if it's not warmed up, im guessing the fuel isn't atomizing since my base fp is 18-20 psi

As far as performance goes, it did better than I expected on the road, the tune was consistent, a little rich but I was playing it safe, the af drops to 11.5 just before boost and stays there. I was most impressed with how much torque it gained at low boost (1-3psi) on the road, passing and merging was easy and a lot of fun. Also I seem to be getting slightly better fuel Economy, i was averaging 25mpg, the best I could get before was 22.

I'm more than happy with this $500 project, it proved to be more reliable than I expected, and tons of fun. Plans for this season is an intercooler or water/meth, and more boost. Gonna see what this trans can handle.
 
#7 ·
your idle speed issue could be the length of the intake pipes and the need for the car to suck in air from the trunk to idle.

might wanna check into a D valve. or anti lag valve set up. some are made with PCV dump valves.. which would be right up your alley!.


keep on going soldier.

I would look into other tunning options. there is a limiit on the buggy FMU and AFPR tuning.


I would also consider checking the "BIG THREE" wires..
one junkyard car with an aftermarket stereo cables left in it will get you enough wire to redo the power from the alt to the battery. and add or modify some ground wires.
on these old cars a better and additional ground set up and good power/charging wires makes a bigg difference.

you are just a hole or louvers on the trunk lid away from not needing a turbo vent fan..
Catering to your style i would suggest looking at boat "bilge vents".
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Attwood-...aust-Off-White-1495-1-18-x3-5-OD/113674679269
they are cheap. and easy to install. just ask my chumpcar..

you may also be able to put a poteniometer on that oil pump. and slow it down some.
or look for more efficient fans. a computer case fan is very efficient and runs on 12V.
normally 120mm fan is less than half an amp.
 
#8 ·
I hadn't thought about slowing the pump down, that's a good idea. I was going to experiment with different oils to eleminate the need for such a large pump, also the pump I'm using was a used scavage pump that wasent really made for what I was doing, and was well used when I got it.

I'd love to redo the whole oil setup but the car only has a few years left till it's too rusted to drive so I don't want to invest too much time into it, that's also the reason I went with an FMU, it was cheep and easy to install/setup. I planned to add a vent to the trunk like you suggested but I was hoping to make a metal box rather than wood first, the wood was supposed to be a template actually hahaha.

Hopefully I will drive it some in the spring, it developed an oil leak in the fall that looks like a cam seal so I will have to address that, I don't see any signs of excessive blow by or any issue with the pcv system so I'm hoping it just failed from age.
 
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