okay slow down
ed ran 10psi but he also has a rebuilt motor. what guys needs to be aware of is that running a stock motor is going to mean they have tight ring gaps. if they have a 93 or newer, they will also have the so called "weaker" pistons.
the pistn on the left is the new style 8.9:1 and the one on the right is the old style 8.5:1
the year change over date was 93.. my 93 had the stronger pistons but some 93s will have the weaker ones.
if i remember correctly, the weaker looking pistons had bigger ring gaps though. in a perfect world, you would run the stronger pistons with re grapped rings. when i re ringed the pistons bobby sent me, the gap was good enough. i used the cromoly rings off rock auto.
that said, i ran 11.5psi (maybe even 13!!) through my turbo at one point on a bone stock factory 3.0
what killed my motor was seeing 13:1 air fuel at a brief point, super high coolant temp (poor head seal?), and capped off rear manifold (higher egt, when i let off the gas after a hard pull, i would get flames out the exhaust!)
with that said, this is what i would do if going for a stock ecu, cheep as can get build.
FUEL
- begi rising rate regulator. this regulator lets you set base pressure and how much of a rising rate it has. Brent ran this for years (still does on his DD spirit) with no problems. I know Dr. Shred uses one to
- 30# injectors from a mustang of whatever. you can even run injectors from a supercharged 3800 car. just do your research on what injectors came with what car.
- walbro fuel pump. Ed and I have both proved that the stock oem pump will handle boost but we cannot say the same about an aftermarket replacement pump.
- AEM or LC-1 wideband. i like the AEM
install the fuel system and wideband first. with stock base pressure (43.5psi or so) you will run WAY to rich at WOT. turn the base pressure down until you get a happy 11.5 air fuel ratio when full throttle.
once you have the big injectors tuned on your N/A motor, you can focus on turbo parts.
I runt his turbo. it spools good, and hasnt blown up. im running a small restrictor for the oil feed. to much oil pressure will kill cheep turbos
cxracing.com: T3 T4 Turbocharger Internal Wastegate 8PSI , 2.5" V-Band Exhaust, 3" Inlet & 2" Outlet
the problem with this turbo is that the wastegate is way to small. This problem is fixed with an external wastegate. without a bigger wastegate i overboosted to 11.5psi on a regular basis. WATCH YOUR BOOST LEVELS
i also run CX racing front mount intercooler and cx piping. my intake temps at 11psi rarely go over ambient temps. thats awesome bang for the buck.
you also need to weld in a oil return line. this line needs to enter the oil pan as high as you can get it and it has to be free flowing. mine is huge, i think it has a 3/8inch ID.
first thing first is getting the fuel system sorted out right away. this will make or break the car.
oo and if you must cap off the rear manifold instead of running one of ed's or making your own, try and port out the divider as much as you can. That divider chokes flow from cyl 1 and 3 horribly when you cap the manifo9ld to force flow into the crossover to spool the turbo.
ill post more tomorrow when i can think straight. im tired as hell and no care to spell check