But I would like to find a t2 computer that'll b somthing I'll b lookn for.
That would be a waste of time and money, better way would be finding another 88 - 89 TI turbo SMEC and just socket it. Then you can put in whatever calibration you want on it. Or just use your current 2.5L TI SEMC as is.
I noticed my turbo has some shaft play. First of all I was wondering how much is to much?
All oil journal bearing turbo have side to side shaft play. If there is no shaft play, oil can't get between the bearing and shaft. Any contact between the wheel and housing? Shaft spins freely? Any noticeable oil leak on either end? If no to all, turbo is fine and install it. It would be a waste of money and time to rebuild a working turbo, there is no benefit.
Now, any noticeable in and out shaft play would be bad, it means your CBV/BOV isn't working and causing surge or the exhaust is plugged up. Find and fix the cause, then put on a new or rebuild the turbo.
Came across this on The Dodge Garage. Gary's site has so much information, lol
"Ahh the one special case! Mopar Performance sells a 42 pph injector- It flows exactly 20% more then a stock 33 pph injector used in the 2.5 engine. Now from what I understand the 2.5 is 11% larger in displacement then a 2.2 BUT it's fuel curve is 17% larger... so what does all this mean? If you install a Turbo II 2.2 computer on a 2.5 engine the calibration will be 17% lean... unless you install a the 20% larger 42 pph injectors at the same time! This is the setup I ran on my K-car and it works pretty well and the extra 3% of fuel will get you up to 16-17 psi. Some cars seem to need a little tweaking with the fuel pressure and others have no problem at all. "
Gary's way was great when free tuning software for 2.2 / 2.5 was not available. Gary's way is obsolete now. To be frank, very few people have the knowledge, patience, and know-how to follow Gary's way. For example, I knew someone who got a hugh fuel leak on a drive-thru due to his poor attempt of adding a 5th injector. He almost burn down a burger place!
Biggest issue with a T2 computer is that all T2 engines were 2.2, not 2.5. I have no experience on the matter, but I'm assuming a 2.2 calibration will run a touch lean on a 2.5. You may be able to overcome this easily by bumping the fuel pressure a bit, but it's something you'll want to investigate.
No, just no. If you have a 2.5L, use the 2.5L computer.
I'm willing to bet the only thing that is significantly different regarding to the TII to a TI calibration is boost schedules. There are eight
boost schedules in SMEC. The computer boost schedules is useless as soon as you put in a manual boost controller or any other form of boost control.
different fuel / ignition timings and other than than 2.2L. Don't mix and match ECU! 2.5L TI calibration will work perfectly fine on an intercooled car.
Download the free MPtuner and calibration files and compare and contrast them between 2.2L and 2.5L!! It's free!
O also I got a t2 intercooler but I don't have the t2 radiator. I was able to mount the intercooler rite up to my radiator like we're the fan would go. My question is do u think that will b ok ther? I know the point of an intercooler is to cool the air. So do u think it will work out that close to the radiator core? The intercooler core is about half an inch to three quarters of an inch away from the rad core. Will the radiator heat cause the intercooler to be to hot? The car doesn't run hot but I don't know if anyone has done it like this or not. I figure it's gotta b cooler then the turbo blowing hot air directly into the intake?
What do I think? Mount it somewhere else. Air coming from the radiator will be 185-210F, do you really want all that hot air to head soak your intercooler? Your intercooler will be an interwarmer
in no time at all. In fact, I bet if you put your left over meal on it, it would warm it up just fine.
I think you'll be just fine with a stage 3 setup and otherwise an all stock setup. Adding an intercooler would be OK since the ECU can compensate for almost 20% of a variance in A/F balance except at WOT at which time the O2 sensor is ignored. It is at this point that having an A/F gauge would tell you if you are rich or lean or just right. Beyond that, then a custom cal would be needed since the ECU stage 3 for a car built w/o an intercooler wont be setup (calibrated) for an engine with an intercooler. The solution is to obtain an ECU calibrated for a T2 intercooled car.
I'm going to have strongly disagree with you regarding using 2.2L TII ECU on a 2.5L car, stated for the reasons above.
Also, ECU maybe able to compensate, but only for a very narrow a/f range. The stock o2 sensor can only tell if the engine is leaning or richer than 14.7. THAT IS IT.
It's good for idling and steady speed, bad for everything else. This is why wideband gauge is important when it comes to tuning!!! Wideband can sense a wide range of a/f ratio, something like 10 a/f to 18 a/f or even wider.
Without a wideband gauge, it's a guessing game. Sure, one can read plugs, and use other old school tricks, but wouldn't you want to know what your a/f ratio is instantly, not after the fact?
When I open a calibration and look at it, there isn't a box that says "intercooler". Please, I encourage anyone and everyone to download MPtuner and look at the tables inside calibration files. Takes all 10-20 minutes and it will give you a better idea how the calibration works.