Turbo Dodge Forums banner

New engine and old engine oil filter adapter fitting is not the same

Engine 
3K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  4 L-bodies 
#1 ·
Hi guys, I am sorry if I am not following forum etiquette. I did not search and apologize.

I have a huge dilemma on my hands. I own my own repair shop. I don't deal with this particular car on a daily basis. I am a huge 4g63 fan. The dilemma I have is that a customer dropped off a 1985 Dodge 600 Convertible Turbo. He purchased a brand new engine from Autozone 2 days after purchasing the car from an old lady who had it parked on a field for who knows how long. The car ran.

I asked the appropriate questions: why a new engine? Any problems with the car? what are your goals? How soon do you need it? At first I thought the guy was setting me up. He was 19 at the time. He looked too young to me and the amount of money he was about to spend on a car he just bought raised a red flag. His answers to my questions were: I fell in love with this car because of my dad. His dad passed away and he had been looking for a car. He wasn't aware of any problems he just wanted to rebuild the car from the ground up and since it was a project he didn't need it right away. He also told me the engine was at Autozone. It was purchased and all they needed was a place to drop the engine to.

He brought the car over. I drove it and it drove fine. No smoke, no problems. No hesitation. Boost was hitting 5lbs and it felt good. So I agreed to the replacement of the engine. The car was finished within a week. He picked up the car and drove it for 3 months then it started to smoke and ran really rough at idle.

The oil dipstick would pop out after driving the car hard and also smoke a lot worse. The smoke would happen after the engine warmed up but not before. I did compression check and found the following results: cylinder #1 120 psi, cylinder #2 90psi,, cylinder #3 135psi and cylinder #4 130psi. The compression was mediocre. I told him that i was possible for the turbo seal to be leaking and mostly need a turbo but the engine was not very strong. The air filter box had a lot of oil in it. The throttle body was saturated in oil. I contacted Autozone. They didn't have an engine on hand. I then had to call Surfire and deal with their worthless "technical department". They were blaming the turbo for the smoke. They wanted me to complete more tests on the engine and so on. Customer was willing to pay for more diagnosis time but I felt like this scum bags should hold their end of the bargain. Own up and help a customer who paid for the crappy engine. Anyway 5 months later the engine arrives. I am a one man shop and the arrival time was during the beginning of my season. When I tried to call him I found out he passed away.

So my dilemma starts here. The family lost the dad a couple years before and now the son passed away in the middle of building the car. Before he passed away he wanted to get the engine done first before painting it and rebuilding the interior. I have the new replacement engine in the car however the oil filter adapter does not fit. The guys at Autozone are worthless and Surefire has been nothing but a peach. I am trying to get the car done for him. 7 months have gone by since he passed away and I am at a loss. Can any one help??
 

Attachments

See less See more
6
#17 ·
Turbomini, I have sent you a PM and got no response. If you can help me I would love to buy the parts from you or any one who has them. I just need the parts guys.

I have found the 0-ring/gasket needed. O'reillys has it in stock. So the gasket is no big deal




Chromguy, I have contacted Marty through email and phone with no luck. Anyway you can help me?
 
#5 ·
There were two versions of the standpipe assembly. The early engines, it was basically nothing more than a threaded pipe nipple that was open. Those were smaller than the later version with the built in check valve, which is what you have.

It appears the engine you received is an early block tapped for the early style standpipe.
 
#11 ·
I think you're right, the thread in the block is the same as in the oil filter.

Early Engines didn't use the anti drainback valve.

The pipe required is essentially a regular plumbing nipple.

The block date should be cast in the lower right (rear) above the oil pan.

Thanks
Randy
 
#7 ·
Good morning guys! First of all I really want to say thank you for helping me. I don't know why I wasted so much time looking on my own before I decided to post on a forum. You guys have made my day!!

After 7 months I can finally see the light. Chromguy thank you for the part numbers. I will try to source the parts online. If I am not able to I will let you guys know and maybe I can buy the parts from one of you.



I live in Bend Oregon.
 
#14 ·
I would love to buy the parts from you if you have them. I have contacted Marty (he is the guy Chromguy said he had them in stock) via phone and I have yet to receive a call back. So if you have the part I need I am willing to buy it from you. I will pay for shipping and everything you need.
 
#9 ·
Potential related discussion topic, not wanting to hi-jack the thread...

I just read in a facebook group that someone encountered a low oil pressure problem by using a short style oil filter on the longer length style oil filter to engine block adapter. Has anyone ever encountered this or heard this/know that it is true?
 
#10 ·
So my dilemma starts here. The family lost the dad a couple years before and now the son passed away in the middle of building the car. / I am trying to get the car done for him. 7 months have gone by since he passed away and I am at a loss. Can any one help??

This is none of my (or anyone else's) business but yours; I am just asking out of curiosity. Is the family willing to pay for all or at least some of the time you've invested, or are you going to be stuck with this vehicle at the end of the process as repayment for the work? I worked at a family-run garage a number of years ago and it always seemed we were taking a bath in someone else's monetary problems.

This is obviously a totally different situation in terms of the causes that got things to this point, and major props to you for continuing to try to do the right thing. I just hate seeing the honest little shops get burned after my prior experiences.

I'm also wondering, if this is an earlier block on this latest replacement motor, whether or not it's got the internals to stand up to boost for any extended period of time. I'm going to venture a guess (and other far-more experienced folks can weigh-in) that it has the cheapest internals possible to make the crank spin when someone turns the key.

Just wondering --

David
 
#12 ·
I'm also wondering, if this is an earlier block on this latest replacement motor, whether or not it's got the internals to stand up to boost for any extended period of time. I'm going to venture a guess (and other far-more experienced folks can weigh-in) that it has the cheapest internals possible to make the crank spin when someone turns the key.

Just wondering --

David
It's an autozone engine, so it's guaranteed to have hyper-puke pistons in it. They won't stand any detonation. But if it's a stock type install, they should work(at least for a while). As far as the bottom end goes, the early rods were way better than the later LW rods, the stock nodular iron crank is a proven tough piece, and the 83+ "turbo" blocks are good to at least 300 hp. So I wouldn't worry about that. Now it might have all different rod bearing sizes & main sizes... Those rebuilds are know for only fixing what is "wrong", which means if one or two of the mains were fine, they will only undersize the ones that need work. Piss poor way to do things, but it's all about saving a buck on those...

But I also have to give the OP props for trying to do the right thing and complete this project in memory of the owner who passed away.0:)
 
#13 ·
David-

As you know little mom and pop shops have to do a lot more to prove to customer's that they too can do the same job as a dealer if not better. When I did my diagnosis on the engine and found out the engine was weak my heart sank. It sucked! I had to break the news to him and postpone his rebuild. I too last my dad in May of 2016. Brandon, that is the kids name passed away in May or June of 2017. I honestly can't remember. I experience my own personal loss and I knew their loss was twice as painful as mine. The daughter and mom are the only two left.

So why am I even doing this? Well, I am a man of my word. I have and will always be. It is the right thing to do even if I lose my personal time and money. I have gotten into arguments with my local Autozone store who has dragged their feet well over a year. I am sick of their bullshit and I blamed their sorry asses for everything I am going through. I know most of you will say that is just a guy behind the counter but I too am just a guy behind a door. I do not have to exert more energy than needed. I too could be like every mechanic shop you have had a bad experience with but I chose not to. I do it because I am tire of dealing with crap and I know if more people like me did the right thing it would become a standard and it would be more common. Too many customer's already expect mediocre treatment and when they come to my shop I show them what I can do and how it should be. I can only make an impact one person at a time and that is exactly what I do when people do business with me.

Before Brandon passed away I made an agreement with him. I didn't want to cut into his budget of rebuilding the car so I agreed to $500 flat labor charge to install the engine and do everything over again. He would pay the materials and parts. I attended his funeral. A week after his funeral his mom and I made the same arrangement. I told them I would complete my promise to him and her. I know it means a lot to them and if there is anyway I can feel my self good is by doing this. I too have an emotional investment in this and that is why I am not quitting. If there was any way to make my local Autozone store and local Rep Dan feel the fire I would love it. Neither my local Autozone sales guy or local rep have contacted me. It has been 4 days since I spoke to the sales guy at the store. The Rep Dan is a total sales pube who only cares about his paycheck. When I contacted Surefire about the problems I was having they told me to deal with Autozone. Since I was tired of dealing with the "passing the buck bullshit" I decided to make that guy feel the burn. It seems to me that no one wants to do more than what their job title says they should do. I guess my expectation level is too high and specially when it comes to standing behind or offering any support on a product they sold.
 
#15 ·
So why am I even doing this? Well, I am a man of my word. I have and will always be.

It is a pity more folks in the general automotive service industry don't share your view and practices. Trust me, I wasn't questioning your motives, was just hoping you weren't going to take a beating on the job.

Typical dealer flat-rate antics give the automotive service industry an overall bad rap.

David
 
#19 ·
if all you need is the straight through fitting without the drainback valve there are other motors that use the same thread as your filter

you do need to check those wouldn't thread in to far though

mopar big and small block , older ford v8 and international & amc v8 use the same thread

one of those MIGHT work

that above list came from my mr gasket oil filter adapter package .. it used the same thread as that straight through filter fitting as I've test fitted my adapter to that fitting in the past

a local speed shop MIGHT have something too

also on the note of threading things in to far , be carefull about the oil distribution block the oil pressure sender / switch and turbo oil line fit into
some blocks can be threaded in far enough to block the passage in the engine preventing oil from going up to the head - and sometimes it will even prevent oil going into the distribution block it's self too
 
#21 ·
Is someone helping this guy out yet? I just looked at all my stock and have nothing but large oil standoff fittings. OP, LMK if someone doesn't come though quickly for you. I have a good friend that probably has a dozen of these things in his garage.
Sounds like you have a 85 or older replacement block. One other thing they changed that may or may not come into play for you is the oil distribution fitting. A late 85 running change was in addition to the oil filter boss being changed, the oil distribution fitting size increased from 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT (see pic). This was increased because of field reports of the 1/8" NPT fitting snapping off in service. This can be easily checked by checking the block and the oil distribution fitting from the old engine. Just thought I would mention this so you don't have any other surprises.
 

Attachments

#24 ·
Good morning guys, I want to say thank you to all of you. I was able to locate the part thanks to Tryingbe. The part locator was awesome and very very helpful. Now all I have to do is wait for the part to arrive so I can get the car started. I am hoping to get the car done by this month so the family can get the rest of the car finished. At least I will be able to get my part done thanks to all of you who replied and gave me the information needed to find the parts. I greatly greatly appreciate it! To all of you who chimed in with mechanical information and suggestions thank you!

Nestor
 
#27 ·
Alright I need your help once more. Since this is the first time I have dealt with a 600 I am not sure how the new oil filter adapter is supposed to mount. I know it threads int but in the inside of the engine I can see how the end/nipple is supposed to slide in. However it is not! I have painted the tip of the nipple with a yellow paint to see the contact on the parts. If I continue to thread the nipple the nipple will be crushed!. Judging on the markings it is not sliding it like I think it is supposed to.

So my question is this: does it slide in as it is threaded in? Or is it crushed as its threaded in?

I have included pictures for all you to see what I am dealing with. The picture where I am wearing a glove is of the nipple before I try to install it. The rest of the pictures of the nipple are from different angles so you guys are able to see what is going on. Maybe some one out there can give me a better idea of what needs to happen during installation.
 

Attachments

#29 ·
I concur, the non threaded end of standoff pipe part goes into the filter. Just make sure your not trying to run a GLHS filter (Wix 1335) when using this style adapter. A Wix/Napa 1348 should spin right on this filter. There are larger ones that will work fine too.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top